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Discussion Starter #1
Although Hyundai claims 100K service on 2017 Sonata 6 speed automatic transmissions - I don't believe that is a good idea not to do drain & fills sooner on a vehicle you plan on keeping past 100K miles (i.e. debris in ATF , fluid oxidation , etc.) Therefore I plan to do drain & refills every 30K miles (once I figure out the 6 speed , no dipstick , semi - sealed , drain and refill directions) . *Question is - what is the current SP 4* synthetic ATF Hyundai is making for 2017 6 speed automatic transmissions ? Next , I hear Hyundai ATF is not exactly the greatest ATF to begin with - what is a better brand ATF with Hyundai approvals ? Lastly , I don't want some sketchy "designed to meet / multi vehicle ATF" which may or may not work ... Your suggestions and experiences for a very good Hyundai approved ATF which is a good value and is cost effective ? Thanks in advance !
 

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Actually with normal service, there is no ATF change, but with severe service, 60k miles.

If you don't want a designed to meet/multi vehicle ATF, suggest you stick with the OEM ATF SP-IV @ $15/qt., or aftermarket SP-IV, maybe $20/qt.
 

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Here is a thread specifically on a D&F and various fluids some of us have used.I did a D&F in the winter at under 1500 miles with a 2nd D&F scheduled for this winter. Once that is done,using the fluid of my choice,I will be good until 120k miles which is double what Hyundai severe service calls for. The fluid is cheap and the trans service is pretty easy,so,I do not follow the Hyundai or Amsoils recommendation. I will probably do fluid analysis one year after the 2nd drain and fill just to see the condition of the fluid.After that,I may do a D&F every year or two which is NOT necessary,but,the fluid will always be fresh.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/automatic/signature-series-fuel-efficient-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid/?code=ATLQT-EA"?zo=5544139

https://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-2015-sonata-i45/611633-lf-transmission-service-drain-fill.html
 

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How about "Lifetime " oil in the engine..

Lifetime ATF,, try again
 

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I would change fluid every 40k miles or 3 years. I'm using valvoline full synthetic atf, seems OK. You can also try amsoil. Go ask dealer and make your own decision
 

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How about "Lifetime " oil in the engine..

Lifetime ATF,, try again
On our '08 Optima 2.4 (purchased new 4/10/08) with A/T, has the original ATF fluid in there since day one and just turned 290,000 miles.
Now, I'm not suggesting that the fluid not be changed as it certainly isn't going to harm anything, just stating that in the 10years/290,000 miles no problems with trans.
 

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Transmission life comes down to driving style, capability of transmission, and many times "luck".

Not sure how strong the 6-speed is and don't want to test it. I do know what it costs to replace after 100k miles. So, until a manufacturer defines "lifetime", I will maintain it.

There is no best ATF. ANY LV full synthetic ATF that mention the sp4 spiv sp2+2 sp5-1 sp2*2 sp3+1 whatever spec hyundai conjures up is fine to use.

I've used Supertech and Ravenol for my last 2 drain/refills. I am approaching my 3rd drain/refill at 60k. I haven't decided on the fluid that I am going to use but it will probably be Amsoil, Valvoline, or Pennzoil. The one I use now means I'll use the others at the 80k and 100k drain/refill. I use an bluetooth OBD scanner with cell phone torque app to make sure ATF is at correct temp during the 'level check'. I don't use the stupid "hope and pray" method of measuring what comes out and blindly refilling with a like amount ASSuming it was correctly full to begin with.

My 6-speed is holding up just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
*Approximately how much ATF are you able to remove with a drain & fill ... 4 quarts , 6 quarts ? Also how would you be able to get under the vehicle when it's level unless you were the size of a horse jockey OR had access to a professional mechanics shop lift to get under the vehicle level ?
Transmission life comes down to driving style, capability of transmission, and many times "luck".

Not sure how strong the 6-speed is and don't want to test it. I do know what it costs to replace after 100k miles. So, until a manufacturer defines "lifetime", I will maintain it.

There is no best ATF. ANY LV full synthetic ATF that mention the sp4 spiv sp2+2 sp5-1 sp2*2 sp3+1 whatever spec hyundai conjures up is fine to use.

I've used Supertech and Ravenol for my last 2 drain/refills. I am approaching my 3rd drain/refill at 60k. I haven't decided on the fluid that I am going to use but it will probably be Amsoil, Valvoline, or Pennzoil. The one I use now means I'll use the others at the 80k and 100k drain/refill. I use an bluetooth OBD scanner with cell phone torque app to make sure ATF is at correct temp during the 'level check'. I don't use the stupid "hope and pray" method of measuring what comes out and blindly refilling with a like amount ASSuming it was correctly full to begin with.

My 6-speed is holding up just fine.
 

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.... I don't use the stupid "hope and pray" method of measuring what comes out and blindly refilling with a like amount ASSuming it was correctly full to begin with. ....
Did you check the ATF fluid level on the day you bought your vehicle? If you really believe there's even a remote chance it's undefiled, then it it would be stupid to not check it on day 1 (actually, before even signing the papers).

Yes, as you might suspect, I did use the stupid method. That was 50K miles ago, it still runs great, and I don't wake up at night wondering if it's undefiled. And next drain-and-fill, I'll be using the stupid method again.
 

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*Approximately how much ATF are you able to remove with a drain & fill ... 4 quarts , 6 quarts ? Also how would you be able to get under the vehicle when it's level unless you were the size of a horse jockey OR had access to a professional mechanics shop lift to get under the vehicle level ?
I drained 4 quarts. I did this in our garage driving onto 2"x 8" planks.Pretty easy and I am much bigger than a horse jocley....:smile:
 
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Did you check the ATF fluid level on the day you bought your vehicle? If you really believe there's even a remote chance it's undefiled, then it it would be stupid to not check it on day 1 (actually, before even signing the papers).

Yes, as you might suspect, I did use the stupid method. That was 50K miles ago, it still runs great, and I don't wake up at night wondering if it's undefiled. And next drain-and-fill, I'll be using the stupid method again.
Running great means little. And, every NEW or USED vehicle that I've owned I've personally checked EVERY fluid level. I am not going to invest $20-$45k on a vehicle an expect a minimum prep checklist clown at the dealer say its good and expect it to be. Most dealers can't even get the oil level correct after a service.

*Approximately how much ATF are you able to remove with a drain & fill ... 4 quarts , 6 quarts ? Also how would you be able to get under the vehicle when it's level unless you were the size of a horse jockey OR had access to a professional mechanics shop lift to get under the vehicle level ?
I used 5 quarts.... any excess ATF will simply overflow out during the level check and is a mixture of oil/new ATF so I don't see the extra refill as waste. For the diy'er, invest in 2-pairs of RhinoRamps or Harborfreight ramps, even though I had no problem servicing the transmission without ramps.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Running great means little. And, every NEW or USED vehicle that I've owned I've personally checked EVERY fluid level. I am not going to invest $20-$45k on a vehicle an expect a minimum prep checklist clown at the dealer say its good and expect it to be. Most dealers can't even get the oil level correct after a service.



I used 5 quarts.... any excess ATF will simply overflow out during the level check and is a mixture of oil/new ATF so I don't see the extra refill as waste. For the diy'er, invest in 2-pairs of RhinoRamps or Harborfreight ramps, even though I had no problem servicing the transmission without ramps.

*I have rhino ramps for my oil changes - to check the over flow ATF port I need the car level - hopefully I can back the car down off the rhino ramps and have enough clearance from underneath the front to reach the over flow port to reinstall the plastic nut (of course after filling until point of over flow ).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
*I still don't see a problem in doing a drain & fill cold ( 72 degrees F. in Georgia) after the car and fresh ATF have both been in the garage over night ? ... Measure how much drained out and refill with same temp ATF until point of over flow ? ... As long as you measure carefully , then add that much back + extra until point of overflow - again ensuring both ATF temps are the same - then why not ? ... Are scan gauges , IR temp gauges and such really needed doing the drain & fill my way carefully as described ?
 

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Actually when checking level, the ATF temp is to be between 122/140 degrees. Now, how much volume is increased from the 75 degrees to the @130 degrees, no idea.


When I did mine, replaced with @ 4.5 quarts, got fluid up to temp, and on level ground opened the oil level plug and fluid poured out.
 

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I would assumed that the fluid level should be done correctly at the factory. just put back whatever the amount it drained out at the same room temperature if you purchased the car new and doing the Drain and Refill for the first time.
 

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*I still don't see a problem in doing a drain & fill cold ( 72 degrees F. in Georgia) after the car and fresh ATF have both been in the garage over night ? ... Measure how much drained out and refill with same temp ATF until point of over flow ? ... As long as you measure carefully , then add that much back + extra until point of overflow - again ensuring both ATF temps are the same - then why not ? ... Are scan gauges , IR temp gauges and such really needed doing the drain & fill my way carefully as described ?
I would assumed that the fluid level should be done correctly at the factory. just put back whatever the amount it drained out at the same room temperature if you purchased the car new and doing the Drain and Refill for the first time.
Yes, that's exactly what I've chosen to do, and have also read a number of other DIYers post this same thing as well. All of us who use this method have been called stupid by one individual in this thread. Well, I could write a big, long post about how inconsistent and stupid the Kia/Hyundai level-check procedure is, in many different ways. But I'm not going to waste my time doing that, because people will just continue to do what they do.

I'll only ever use the automakers bizarre level check if I'm forced to, and certainly never for a routine drain-and-fill. Everyone else can do whatever stupid thing they want to. Many thanks to Kia/Hyundai for taking away the dipstick and replacing it with this pile of $hit.
 
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