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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am soon to replace the AT in my 2017 Elantra SE. I know that there are relearn procedures you have to do after you replace it. Does anyone know what these procedures are?
 

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AT's aren't included with new engines where you should not drive at a steady speed for the first 500 miles. Of all things, the piston rings need breaking in.

Major cause of AT failure is taking your vehicle to a drag strip, second is developing fluid leaks.
 

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Are you replacing it yourself? What was the failure? I'm curious as the 6 speed auto is actually a pretty stout trans.

Only way I know to do a trans relearn is through Hyundai's GDS, but there may be other ways. That said, GDS can be picked up relatively cheaply, so I'd recommend it.
 

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Are you replacing it yourself? What was the failure? I'm curious as the 6 speed auto is actually a pretty stout trans.

Only way I know to do a trans relearn is through Hyundai's GDS, but there may be other ways. That said, GDS can be picked up relatively cheaply, so I'd recommend it.
GDS can be picked up relatively cheaply! Care to share your source?
 

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It's found on Amazon for $228. It's not cheap, but I said relatively cheap, which it is when you look at other OEM's scan tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My elantra has 276,000 miles on it gears are starting to slip
Are you replacing it yourself? What was the failure? I'm curious as the 6 speed auto is actually a pretty stout trans.

Only way I know to do a trans relearn is through Hyundai's GDS, but there may be other ways. That said, GDS can be picked up relatively cheaply, so I'd recommend it.
Its just to many miles. @ 220,000 mi. One of the solenoids went bad I replaced that now at 276k the gears are starting to slip its the only problem I have had with the car... Except an alternator No leaks,
Are you replacing it yourself? What was the failure? I'm curious as the 6 speed auto is actually a pretty stout trans.

Only way I know to do a trans relearn is through Hyundai's GDS, but there may be other ways. That said, GDS can be picked up relatively cheaply, so I'd recommend it.
GDS tool huh? I will have too check that out thanks... It's got 276k gears starting to slip the only other issue I have had with the car is at 220k the shift solenoid went bad I replaced that and everything was good until now! When I replaced that I changed the trans fluid with the dealers expensive ... fluid minor metal shaving on the drain plug. When I started having this slip issue I went to change the fluid again this time it smelled burnt and there were metal shavings everywhere so I would assume with that and the slipping it is only a matter of time
 

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Wow.. that's a good amount of mileage. If you don't mind me asking, what do you do that has you driving so many miles a day?

Did you perform a fluid service before the solenoid replacement? Hyundai's fluid is pricey, so I use a non-OEM ATF. I have found Kia's ATF to be listed cheaper, if you want to stick with SP-IV.
 

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Use to make a fuel pump like new again for a dollar, average price to replace one today and have it done is $1,100.00, did have to replace the one in my Supra, did it myself, but a new pump for this car is $456.00. Know people that paid $4,000.00 for a rebuilt AT, but the list of wearable components in a vehicle is practically endless. You have four hub bearings, half axles, differential, brakes, tires, catalytic converters burn out, the list is practically endless.

Isn't it a lot cheaper just to buy a brand new vehicle? Ever replace an interior, carrying passengers, they really wear out.

With Obama's cash for clunkers, youngest daughter needed a running vehicle, cheapest thing I could find with 150K miles on it was $10,000.00 and needed a lot of work, definitely new brakes and tires. Added a couple of thousand to that and got her a brand new soul with a 50K mile warranty on it. I did have to add another 45 bucks to let her have cruise control.
 

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UBER driver! I have perform fluid services yes
Wow, I'd expect something that was mostly highway driving- Ubering should be a mix of both, which is awesome. Your car has kind of become a case study for me, hope that's okay! Yours is the highest mileage, non-highway exclusive use AD that I've ever come across.

Did you follow the severe maintenance schedule, the normal schedule, or no schedule at all? I'm just curious as to how often the trans was serviced, as well as the oil change schedule.

I see what NicholasD is saying, but I always prefer a known vehicle to an unknown vehicle and it's hard to find a vehicle in good enough shape for me to give up on a car that I know the history on for the price of a trans swap. Have you sourced a used trans or are you rebuilding? I'm assuming you're planning on doing this yourself? That's the only reason you'd need to worry about relearn procedures- otherwise the shop that does it should take care of that for you. All told, it really should just be a plug and play operation- the computer shouldn't reject the new trans. That said, the GDS is still something I like to have because I do a lot of my own work to my own cars.
 

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If available in your area, and the money is available, going Certified Pre-Owned can be a home run. You get the full powertrain warranty and many of the vehicles available are coming off 2yr leases with good service records. Just as the 2018's were coming out we bought daughter a 2016 Elantra SE with the value pkg (or something like that). Had alloys, homelink mirror, lots of added features. 18K miles on the odometer, looked like it had just come off the showroom. Original MSRP $20,455, probably would have sold for around $19,500. We bought it for $13,800. Has been a great car.

I know that's a big difference in price from a tranny, but if you're doing those kind of miles that tranny is just the first of what's coming. And you sure don't want to pay new car depreciation on an Uber vehicle!
 

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Back in the 50's with a 99,999.9 odometer when that magic number was hit, vehicle was worth zero, well more like ten bucks, that was all a wrecking yard would pay.

Practically all vehicles had seat covers, with those gone, interior was like new, for 80 bucks could do a complete engine rebuilt, new pistons, valves, even bore out the cylinders. And could even a vehicle with new tires. With a manual six bucks for a new pressure plate two for the disks. AT, like a hydramatic, rebult kit was another 60 bucks, but rare to replace these, built like a steam locomotive.

But unfortunately this is history, blame Bill Clinton, he insisted that all inventory be taxed like profit, but all at retail prices, not actual cost. So the price of replacement parts skyrocketed, took the supreme court eight years to justify this and inventory was based on actual cost to the company, not resale value.

But in the same time over 7,000 parts and engine rebuilders were put out of business. What did survive went to China and talk about crap. But the price of parts never went down to the point they were before all this BS started.

Cheaper to buy a new car than a used up one and you really have to know how to deal.
 

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Its just to many miles. @ 220,000 mi. One of the solenoids went bad I replaced that now at 276k the gears are starting to slip its the only problem I have had with the car... Except an alternator No leaks,

GDS tool huh? I will have too check that out thanks... It's got 276k gears starting to slip the only other issue I have had with the car is at 220k the shift solenoid went bad I replaced that and everything was good until now! When I replaced that I changed the trans fluid with the dealers expensive ... fluid minor metal shaving on the drain plug. When I started having this slip issue I went to change the fluid again this time it smelled burnt and there were metal shavings everywhere so I would assume with that and the slipping it is only a matter of time
What were your symptoms when the solenoid went out ?
 
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