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Over the weekend, my 2017 elantra would not start twice in a 24 hour period. Only to start like nothing was wrong minutes later.

First time - Car was sitting for about 8 hours - I entered the car, put the key in the ignition, it would turn and then absolutely nothing, no lights on the dash, no lights on in the car triggered by door opening, nothing - as if the car had absolutely no power. Engine was not even trying to turn over - completely dead. Then I removed the key from the ignition, opened and closed the door, light in car turned on, put key in ignition, car started fine. However, it was no longer in Eco mode and it was as if the car reset.

Second time - Car was sitting over night, got in, started fine, drove about 6 miles and parked. Wanted to see if it would happen again so I turned off the car and manually turned off the radio, at this point I noticed the lights in car went off, and radio screen went blank. Went to try and start it, same issue, completely dead, no power, and engine not even trying to turn over - nothing from the engine. Remove the key, open the door and close, car starts right up.

Working to schedule a visit with the dealership to check it out - I'm concerned that they won't be able to duplicate the issue as I cannot figure out what "triggers" the car to seem to lose power completely - happened twice under two different circumstances.

Any thoughts? Battery connections seem fine. Very frustrating that it is less than two years old and having issues with starting.
 

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Many electrical connections look fine, but are they? Need a voltmeter to check for voltage drops while the circuit is under a current load.

Very recently a friend call me because is 2014 Toyota would not start, please bring your jumper cables. Also brought my battery terminal cleaner, after cleaning his terminals and greasing them, started up on its own. And this is a Toyota!
 

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That sure sounds like a main electrical connection.....somewhere. Especially of no lights in the dash when you turn the key. Follow those battery wires and see if you got some bad connections wherever they go. You might have rat-bitten wires though. I think someone said something about soy or oatmeal-based insulation on these wires? (Let's protect the environment and have non-biodegradable wires insulated by biodegradable food.)
 

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My Cruze did this to me, 40 miles from home after that 36 minute warranty ran out, turn the ignition switch, nothing. So what I did was try to start it, nothing, switched off the ignition and pulled the key, then opened the drivers door, only way to turn these darn things off.

Forth time I tried this, it started and got me home, at home, I pulled the ignition relay and tested the closed contacts by energizing the relay with 12 V. typically these relays have four contacts, two smaller one for the coil, two larger for the contacts. By driving the closed contacts with a constant current, the voltage was close to 9 volts, should be well less than 0.1 volts.

Has to open the relay by cutting the cover, contacts were dirty, cleaned them and taped the cover back on, it worked. But replaced that POS with a Panasonic and never had problems again until it was totaled, ha, that was a blessing.

As a precaution, measured the relay contacts, found terminals the same size, male and tied two terminals with a short jumper. Just pull the relay and plug that jumper into the contact female terminals, also did this for Start and Fuel relays.

Practically all new vehicles are this way, opened many hoods to see that fuse/relay box, all are using point contact relays, poor choice, one tiny spec of debris can prevent contact. Also to save wire, ECM has also been moved under the hood.

One good thing I can say about the Elantra, using Omron relays that are of higher quality than just made in China.

Only problem I found with my Limited, the negative battery terminal was loose as well as those four door handle screws.
 

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Had similar problem last summer
Cleaned up all connections, battery terminals, grounding points
And even changed the ignition switch (not lock cylinder)
Haven't had a problem with starting since
Although have had other problems ... P0440 evap system leak
 

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Over the weekend, my 2017 elantra would not start twice in a 24 hour period. Only to start like nothing was wrong minutes later.

First time - Car was sitting for about 8 hours - I entered the car, put the key in the ignition, it would turn and then absolutely nothing, no lights on the dash, no lights on in the car triggered by door opening, nothing - as if the car had absolutely no power. Engine was not even trying to turn over - completely dead. Then I removed the key from the ignition, opened and closed the door, light in car turned on, put key in ignition, car started fine. However, it was no longer in Eco mode and it was as if the car reset.

Second time - Car was sitting over night, got in, started fine, drove about 6 miles and parked. Wanted to see if it would happen again so I turned off the car and manually turned off the radio, at this point I noticed the lights in car went off, and radio screen went blank. Went to try and start it, same issue, completely dead, no power, and engine not even trying to turn over - nothing from the engine. Remove the key, open the door and close, car starts right up.

Working to schedule a visit with the dealership to check it out - I'm concerned that they won't be able to duplicate the issue as I cannot figure out what "triggers" the car to seem to lose power completely - happened twice under two different circumstances.

Any thoughts? Battery connections seem fine. Very frustrating that it is less than two years old and having issues with starting.

Check the grounds. Hyundai is notorious for lousy grounding.

Check the main lug from the - side of the battery. My Accent relied on the threads on a 10mm bolt in a painted surface to provide enough current. After I scraped the paint, reattached the lug and coated it with grease it started a LOT easier.

Also look for the grounding straps; on my car they are from the shock towers to the cylinder head and block. They can corrode easily. Spry them with PB Blaster or something similar to keep the from rusting/corroding.
 
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Should we really be advising the user with this problem when we nothing about about him or her. Will be surprised at the number people that were injured trying to repair their own electrical systems, some had the battery blow up in their face. Others reversed the polarity and fried their entire electronic system.

If that wrench touches ground on the positive battery terminal or the BAT terminal on the alternator, what's an alternator, something could explode. Use to comment our greatest friend for our aftermarket business are battery jumper cables.

Besides have that warranty, your dealer is suppose to take care of you. Ha, my wife has been driving for 40 years, as have many people and don't know anything about what's under the hood.
 

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Yeah, probably right.
2017 ... go back to dealer and have them fix it
But for others, it would depend upon their skill level
And the information is for entertainment purposes
Do we really need a disclaimer for every post??
 
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