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Discussion Starter #1
So for a little bit of background, I have a history of being a bit of a lead foot and intend to focus that more on autocross to avoid getting (more) speeding tickets. That being said, the AD has a pretty excellent chassis - drive it in sport mode and it's actually fairly entertaining despite the obvious lack of power. So I'm going to do what everyone who has no power but still wants to go fast does - build it for handling instead. There will be a few parts on here that don't contribute directly to handling, but that's personal taste. So without further adeu, here's the list in generic terms (most parts will be off of eBay or sharkracing.com):

K&N Typhoon Intake (arrives today!)
Strut tower brace
Trunk brace
Underbody braces, front and rear
Fender braces (front)
Front splitter
Rear diffuser with fake dual exhaust tips
Muffler delete with dual exit (so I can cut out those fake tops on the rear diffuser)
High flow catalytic converter
17x7.5 wheels (have them picked out, dark gray in color, they weigh 17 lbs apiece)
Pirelli PZero tires
Coilovers
Front mesh grille in black or dark gray

In total, the parts will be about $5,000, which is a lot cheaper than getting a second car just for weekend racing. It's possible an engine swap might happen down the road, but undecided (2.0t from the Santa Fe?). I drive about 7k miles a year, so this isn't just a throwaway car for me.

Any thoughts on this?
 

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For that kinda scratch you should just trade in for a Sport and get a decent starting platform including already having a turbo and IRS. I was on the SCCA BOD for several years for Solo II in the Steel Cities region. If you have any questions feel free to message
 

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Just my 2 cents here but I was never a fan of the P-zero tires I had them on my mustang twice and it was never by choice, I found I had betters handling with my Nittos but they wore really fast (soft rubber tires will do that) and the second set I had were Falken tires but I don’t remember the specific models tires of either brand. I realize a lot of this comes down to personal preference and taste and YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I agree that the Sport would make a better starting point, but the problem is that the budget for this is pretty strict (also I bought this before the Sport came out). I just bought a house and am about to toss $60k at school now that the undergrad loans and the car are paid off, so I'm looking to do what's mostly simple, relatively inexpensive stuff to the car to make it more enjoyable. Once the MBA is taken care of, income should go up about 40-50k (average income in the supply chain industry with an MBA is between 96 and 120k right out of school), at which point I'll just keep this as a family car and get a proper sports car. Trading in for a Sport would set me back a solid 10k or so, and I'd still be wanting to do most of these things to it. If I were looking at paying 10-15k for the car, I'd probably just get a 350Z or Mini Cooper JCW to be honest.

As for the tires, the PZeros are really just the compromise in performance and price. I'd rather have R888s, but they're significantly more expensive.
 

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Ha, even back in the 50's could buy a fake tail pipe to fool people into thinking you have dual exhaust, but sure didn't do anything when taking off from the line.


What I use to do was drop in a later model huge V-8 in a 48 coupe, the cross sectional area of the exhaust increases by the square of the diameter, looked perfectly stock, but would leave spoiled brat rich kids new cars in the dust. We called these sleepers. Back then could pick up a Chrysler Hemi from a wrecking yard with only 8K miles on it for 65 bucks.



For years living in road salt, had to replace the exhaust system every year, least now using all stainless steel. Last one lasted over 9 years, but when you look at OEM prices for replacement parts, really in the sticker shock stage. Really hate to cut them up, getting fugal in my old age.


With EPA regulations and stiff fines for tampering with the engine if caught, only things left to play with is the cat back and the air cleaner, but may still have a fight in maintaining your warranty, stuff you listed will give you more noise, but that is about it.


Ha, last kid was given a ticket with a tiny 2.4 L with a small hole in the muffler, no fine, but had to show proof it was replaced, replaced it for her. Not nearly the noise of five diesel locomotives driving through town, or even a school bus.



Exterior mods can go two ways, trying to find a person that likes what you did and pay for it, but not from any dealer on a trade in, will knock down the price to bring it back to stock.


Not bad in the 50's, new fender installed and painted was 17 bucks, now looking over a thousand.


Then the law, one of my kids received two speeding tickets in a month, one for driving 28 mph, other for driving 29 mph in a 25. Got a letter from my insurance company, wanted $1,700.00 extra for a year for insurance. Did find another insurance company, but also installed cruise in that car.



So much for the land of the free and the home of the brave.



Ha, buy a Lincoln SUV, has more HP than a Lexus. We have more 500 + HP vehicles today than in our history, makes the HP race of the 60's look like kids stuff.
 

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Hi Alex, get the REAL JUN BL dual chrome exhaust from Korea and pick up 3 to 5 HP and a great sounding / looking exhaust .Get a sports K&N air intake and pick up 5 to 10 HP . Shark Racing High Flow 200 Cell Race cat another 10 HP . Lastly a set of extractors (headers)from Shark racing and pick up another 10 to 15 HP ...IMHO Nothing wrong with 2.0L none turbo engines, simpler and easy to make perform with some easy none invasive tweaking. Its all about air intake ,air exhaust and not gaining weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I may do a high flow cat and have everything behind it done just as straight pipes. But just put on the intake today and it seems like there wasn't much power gain (though I'm not positive I'd notice the extra 5 hp in the ten minutes of driving I did). Also no difference in sound until you hit 3000 rpm, then it's probably 3-4x louder. Kind of nice since I'll be starting nights here soon and I'm not really looking to anger the neighbors, but sounds great when I get on the gas! Strut tower brace and underbody braces are most likely next, should be fun. Honestly, probably won't do a whole lot that'll result in a power gain with mentioning, it's the chassis and suspension stiffness that will be the big difference overall.
 

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Physics ,all about the air flow and petrol in conbustion engines

I may do a high flow cat and have everything behind it done just as straight pipes. But just put on the intake today and it seems like there wasn't much power gain (though I'm not positive I'd notice the extra 5 hp in the ten minutes of driving I did). Also no difference in sound until you hit 3000 rpm, then it's probably 3-4x louder. Kind of nice since I'll be starting nights here soon and I'm not really looking to anger the neighbors, but sounds great when I get on the gas! Strut tower brace and underbody braces are most likely next, should be fun. Honestly, probably won't do a whole lot that'll result in a power gain with mentioning, it's the chassis and suspension stiffness that will be the big difference overall.
The cat and the extractors will give you the most pick up in HP ,guaranteed. K&N air filter slight pick up ,guaranteed. Dual JUN Bl exhaust very little as I stated before but looks better than fake exhaust tips IMHO and sounds better than the standard boring muffler. I don't like road noise so I'm purchasing next the sound insulators from Shark Racing, for my bonnet, boot and doors. I like engine muffler note or nothing.. windows up just music..
 

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Performance in my life was key, wrecking my vehicles in the quarter mile, suddenly occurred to me to make the fans happy, either blow my engine or better yet get killed. And always somebody at the track that had a couple of more bucks than I had.


So switched to the best fuel economy for performance, use to get 6 cents per mile, costing my good hard cash making the oil companies richer.


In terms of vehicle appearance, better off to be hidden in the crowd, get attention from the wrong kind of people. My little 2 liter gets me there just as fast as anybody else. Love the manual override in my Limited, sure saves on brake life by downshifting.


Back in the 50's 60's hitting 1 HP per cubic inch of displacement was a huge challenge. Getting 145 HP with a 122 CID aspirated engine. Really incredible the way cars are designed today. And really enjoy getting 50 mpg with summer gas on the highway. But each to his own on this subject.


Sure getting a lot of mail to purchase an SUV since the price of gas rose 65 cents a gallon. Still only a five passenger vehicle with lots of dead weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The cat would be the next thing I do involving the powertrain, but I think braces and wheels/tires are in order first. To be honest, when it comes to hard driving, tires are currently the weakest link.
 

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Tend to shake my head watching auto shows on Velocity or Discovery, guys spending over $100K getting a 50's/60's car fully restored.


First thing they do is take out and burn the tires, engine is not even broken in first.
 

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The cat would be the next thing I do involving the powertrain, but I think braces and wheels/tires are in order first. To be honest, when it comes to hard driving, tires are currently the weakest link.
Nice read, however since your car doesn’t have a turbo that extra wow factory will always be missing. Just saying. Braces (strut, sway bar, and the 4 point subframe) drastically improved how the car now handles. After I added all mine, it added a big smile to see just how much the car changed after the install.

The weather underbody splash shield will have to be modified along with the strut tower brace. The strut brace cowl was a real PITA to modify.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The turbo may come later, but that'll all depend on money at the time - if all goes well an Alfa 4C will be well within reach in 2-3 years. Regardless, the price difference between this and the sport leaves room for a possible Genesis 2.0 or Santa Fe Sport turbo transplant.

Out of curiosity, what strut brace did you use? Just got off the phone with Megan Racing - they have one that they think should fit, but haven't had the opportunity to test it. Only other ones I know of are the Pierce Motorsports and the one on Shark Racing (I think Luxor is the brand). Also kind of curious if the sway bars for the Sport fit the standard models - same chassis so I'd think so, but not sure.
 

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Out of curiosity, what strut brace did you use? Just got off the phone with Megan Racing - they have one that they think should fit, but haven't had the opportunity to test it. Only other ones I know of are the Pierce Motorsports and the one on Shark Racing (I think Luxor is the brand). Also kind of curious if the sway bars for the Sport fit the standard models - same chassis so I'd think so, but not sure.
- Luxor brand is a korean made item with your regular steel. Cool looking one piece strut brace, but since it uses regular steel, there will be added weight in comparison to Jim’s braces at Pierce Motorsports (which is what I’m using).

- Call the number for Pierce Motorsports and talk with Jim. He’s cool, but most likely you’ll have to leave a message since he’s rarely in his office. You’ll like talking to him. He’s awesome. Oh-yeah...his braces are made from chromoly which is much better than regular steel.

- As to the sway bar, you won’t be able to add it since your car doesn’t have the independent rear suspension like what’s on the Sport model. Check the diagram for reference below. Your car has the torsion axle.

 

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I may do a high flow cat and have everything behind it done just as straight pipes. But just put on the intake today and it seems like there wasn't much power gain (though I'm not positive I'd notice the extra 5 hp in the ten minutes of driving I did). Also no difference in sound until you hit 3000 rpm, then it's probably 3-4x louder. Kind of nice since I'll be starting nights here soon and I'm not really looking to anger the neighbors, but sounds great when I get on the gas! Strut tower brace and underbody braces are most likely next, should be fun. Honestly, probably won't do a whole lot that'll result in a power gain with mentioning, it's the chassis and suspension stiffness that will be the big difference overall.
Phooey on the neighbor’s. You’ll be starting the car and driving off. What? 20 seconds? Tops? Not like you’re under their bedroom window, leaving it out there for 30 minutes to get the oil to normal operating temps. :wink:
 

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Alex I can only give you one piece of advice that I had to learn the hard way: Don't waste your time and money turning an economy box into a track-ready miata. You will lose the fuel economy and reliability and get no real difference in performance. Sure the car might be firmed up, but timing a lap around the track you will notice no difference or lose time because of all the added weight of the chassis stiffeners.

Additionally our cars have an atkinson cycle engine, which means just slapping a turbo on the engine won't work like a standard otto cycle engine (even with a tune). A better bang for the buck would be just converting the engine back to an otto cycle, but that would require new cam phasing programming and camshafts so I doubt such a kit exists.

Why not just buy a used shifter cart or motorcycle for the weekends at the track? You could tow either one behind the elantra and when you inevitably wreck your track toy, you can just load it back on the trailer and drive home. Plus you get the added benefit of not using public roads to get your fast driving "itch" out of your system. Saves you the risk of an insurance claim and/or a reckless driving ticket.
 

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Alex I can only give you one piece of advice that I had to learn the hard way: Don't waste your time and money turning an economy box into a track-ready miata. You will lose the fuel economy and reliability and get no real difference in performance. Sure the car might be firmed up, but timing a lap around the track you will notice no difference or lose time because of all the added weight of the chassis stiffeners.

Additionally our cars have an atkinson cycle engine, which means just slapping a turbo on the engine won't work like a standard otto cycle engine (even with a tune). A better bang for the buck would be just converting the engine back to an otto cycle, but that would require new cam phasing programming and camshafts so I doubt such a kit exists.

Why not just buy a used shifter cart or motorcycle for the weekends at the track? You could tow either one behind the elantra and when you inevitably wreck your track toy, you can just load it back on the trailer and drive home. Plus you get the added benefit of not using public roads to get your fast driving "itch" out of your system. Saves you the risk of an insurance claim and/or a reckless driving ticket.

I have to agree with this but to each his own... In my younger years I modded my first car (late 70s Mitsu Lancer) to extract every last ounce of performance I could get... Racing cams, twin carbs (from single in stock) with velocity stocks and no air filters, shaved cyclinder head, lightened flywheel, port and polished intake and exhaust manifolds, 4:1 headers, high output ignition coil, and so on... Car did go much faster and gave me a stronger adrenaline rush but it also burned a bigger hole in my pocket. Clutch or pressure plate would go out every year, engine needed a rebuild every 2 years. ):


Today, I leave the car stock and get my adrenaline rush flying RC helicopters or riding my bikes... No speed limit in the skies as of now and the bikes speed is limited by how fast I can pedal except when going downhill.










Crashing the helicopter can still put a dent in the wallet though but not as much as blowing up an engine or crashing the car. Plus I can do the repairs all by myself.





Crashing the bike, well, lets just say I am glad I am covered by universal health care up here.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's never really going to be a track car though - really the main goal is to tighten it up a bit and make it a little more engaging on a daily basis. I drive maybe 7,000 miles a year, so this isn't a throwaway car for me as it is for some. But I also know it isn't a sports car and don't expect it to behave like one. Just want enough fun to last me a year or two until I can get a second car specifically for racing ?
 
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