Some people say you can use a shop vac to blow air up the exhaust pipe to find a leak.
Good stuff -- found some discussion and Youtube videos on this. My baby shop vac doesn't have the blower side, so I guess I'm going to invest in the grown up version now... or maybe I'll use the leaf blower ?Some people say you can use a shop vac to blow air up the exhaust pipe to find a leak.
If you have a vacuum cleaner or Shop-Vac using blowing output side, that you could adapt to tail pipe outlet to pressurize exhaust system. You could then use soapy water in spray bottle to look for bubbles when spraying possible areas.Any tips or tactics for finding an exhaust leak? I won't get another chance to look at the car until maybe 10 days from now, but I want to continue to chase this down.
Got it. I may employ the leaf blower instead, as my Shop-Vac is an old cheapo with no blower output side (yes it has exhaust, but not a hose fit for it) -- or maybe I'll go get the grown up Shop-Vac.If you have a vacuum cleaner or Shop-Vac using blowing output side, that you could adapt to tail pipe outlet to pressurize exhaust system. You could then use soapy water in spray bottle to look for bubbles when spraying possible areas.
The exhaust gaskets, head to manifold and flex joint (if equipped) areas would be most suspects. Only need to be concerned from #2 O2 sensor forward, since I can’t imagine any leak afterwards having an effect.
Right-On .... Typical stealership service kind of answer along with an alignment, several different flushes and of course brake service will most likely improve the problem........... I found lots of people asking about the same phenomenon for the Accent (and some other Hyundais), burning through oil faster than this one and at much lower age/mileage to boot. And further, they were being told by their dealers that the consumption is within manufacturer spec.
In my mind the oil consumption is... I kind of do an instant "say what?" in response to the idea that it's normal. But I have no way to disprove the assertion. Simultaneously, I have no way to prove that even if it is normal, it won't eventually cause problems, soooo... dunno.
When the owner forked over $120.00 for diag to the local dealer, their recommend was to replace the purge control valve and the in-tank fuel pump... for something way north of $1,200.00. I replaced both myself as part of this exercise, with genuine Hyundai/Kia parts and at a cost of well below four figures, and neither improved the problem in any way. Clearly the issue is that I did not ignore their recommendation and get the service department car wash for $2,195.00 insteadRight-On .... Typical stealership service kind of answer along with an alignment, several different flushes and of course brake service will most likely improve the problem.
Got it. This is helpful. I thought it was the first O2 that mattered here with the second only functioning as you describe, but I wasn't sure. 100% appreciate the explicit clarification -- thank you.The second O2 has no effect on the ECU fueling. It is only there to tell you the condition of the cat.
When looking at lambda it should be at 1 when in closed loop. It may did when accelerating a bit but mostly at 1 99% of the time.
Looking at the primary O2 on a graph is a good indication of fueling. It should be quite rhythmic in it's oscillations got through the extremes.
That's wild. But it also indicates that that's normal, so -- cool. Appreciate that data point. It helps a lot. Out of curiosity, what oil are you putting in and what's your change interval?My Accent burned a qt every 3k miles when new. It's down to a qt every 7500 miles now. 174k miles on the engine.
Cool. I moved the owner of this one from dino oil (handled by whoever they were taking it to) to High Mileage Mobil 1, 5w20, middle of last year (oil changes done by me). The car is cycling through oil so fast (it gets a ton of highway miles put on routinely) that I did some math and decided to put the change interval at either 10k or 15k -- I forget the exact number, I'd have to check, but you get the idea. The 5w20 is manufacturer recommend, any thoughts on that vs 30?I use Mobil 1. It spent most of it's life on 0w20. A couple of years ago I went to 5w30 Hi Mile Mobil 1. That made a slight change to less use but nothing remarkable. I actually add a 1/2 qt when it needs it and at ~7500 it's down another 1/2.
That's what I mean. I use official Hyundai filters, traditional oil (Quaker State 5/20), and change every 6 months or 2500 miles. If there were a way to survey a sizable group of RB owners about these things (and whether they experience certain common issues), I bet something common would show up.I use a fram Ultra filter and change it every other change at 15k miles. It's the best filter you can get for the Hyundai spin ons.
In this case it was a leased vehicle (likely meaning dealer-serviced), purchased by owner #2/current owner around the 33K-mile mark, fed fuel and oil as it demanded; owner checked for oil level but not much else in terms of maintenance unless the car clearly had something wrong (or it was oil change time based on interval). Though I grouse about the oil consumption, having new oil put in the car so routinely (due to consumption during piles of highway driving under owner #2) as backstop has likely kept it in better shape internally in some ways than a lot of cars.It seems strange to me that there are such divergent experiences with the Accent. Some people have oil consumption. Some have pinging. I wish there was a way to do a survey asking model year, miles driven, oil used (traditional or synthetic), frequency of oil changes, brand of filter; fuel used (top-tier?), frequency of additives. (And, whether they'e having any listed issues like oil consumption, pinging.).
There must be a common denominator. Maybe it's only people who drive the car hard? Or, use synthetic oil? Or, cardboard FRAM oil filters? There's gotta be something common to the people experiencing that.
This is probably one of the best sites on the Internet for car info. Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil SiteThat's what I mean. I use official Hyundai filters, traditional oil (Quaker State 5/20), and change every 6 months or 2500 miles. If there were a way to survey a sizable group of RB owners about these things (and whether they experience certain common issues), I bet something common would show up.
EDIT: I haven't had a single ECU update (since I got my 2013 in August 2012).
Ah, cool. Good to know. If the hunting persists after I've found the hypothetical exhaust leak and hypothetically killed the P2191, I will look into this. Not that I don't want to check out the throttle, but definitely trying to stick to tweaking one thing at a time. Very helpful (again!) -- thank you.Idle on ECT engines is done mostly with timing. If the throttle body motor is not operating smoothly the ECU will use timing to try and control rpms. If youwatch the timing values while it is hunting for idle and they are swing back and forth then it is a throttle plate/motor problem. Could just be a dirty throttle body. My Gen Coupe did this, the idle would go up and down and finally stay high. It set a code after it got really bad. But it was easy to clean.
That's the sort of thing I'm getting at. Oil is often a religious topic. Synthetic may be better. I'm not really trying to say one way or the other. But, often synthetic is synonymous with "longer use." I wonder if that could be a commonality. Like you [edit: that was smashpdx, actually] said: burning oil may be beneficial because you can add fresh oil to the increasingly burdened. Wouldn't that same logic apply to using synthetic for 15,000 miles versus 3k (discardable) oil changes (with any oil, be it traditional or synthetic)?the car can and will do well if well-cared for, especially if the oil changes are using synthetic;
Your points and questions are reasonable. I don't want to veer too far off topic but here's my tangential contribution and explainer on why I have this Accent doing this particular oil thing.That's the sort of thing I'm getting at. Oil is often a religious topic. Synthetic may be better. I'm not really trying to say one way or the other. But, often synthetic is synonymous with "longer use." I wonder if that could be a commonality. Like you said burning oil is actually beneficial because you can add fresh oil to the increasingly burdened. Wouldn't that same logic apply to using synthetic for 15,000 miles versus (discardable) 3k oil changes with any oil -- be it traditional or synthetic?
I hope I'm not stirring anything up. I feel like I can see both sides. But, I feel like the longer periods between changes (just because synthetics can do that) might be a problem. For example, I've heard a few times that our GDI engine can put more fuel in the oil (washing the cylinder walls?). However great synthetic oil is, that would be a problem it's not designed to compensate for.
I don't know. I'm just thinking out loud. I bet there is some common denominator like that. It's really hard to believe how varied people's experiences are (and how common some of the problems are, with just some people.). It seems like something's going on. (I'm not saying 'aliens...' but...").