Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Main question - front strut tower mount - is the inner metal ring and rubber bushing 'directional'? I do not know, but I think it should not matter?

I understand the entire strut tower mount and it's three main mounting bolts are directional... but what about the inner portion only?

The ring and/or bushing can rotate during strut installation, trying to torque down the struts nut. There are two notches 180* apart on the inner metal ring. They probably moved up to 360* during removal/installation of the new TruHart struts. They most likely are not at the same spot as originally.

There is a bit of 'scrunching' now when the steering wheel is turned left/right when driving. It does not make noise over bumps. If you watch the strut tower as you turn the wheel left/right you'll see the inner portion move and shift just a little bit as the suspension geometry changes.

Is the rubber bushing glued into position and should not rotate whatsoever? Does rotating this metal ring damage the bushing?

445251



In other news... TruHart struts and Megan springs install was a success. Tomorrow will tell.

445252
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I just confirmed with my local Hyundai service dept and the inner bushing is allowed to rotate and is not directional.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
The top plate (hat) does have a correct position to be installed.

One of the top 3 studs is a different color (if I remember it is a slight pink or purple on the top of the stud) that points / goes into the hole closest to the engine bay and the other 2 are in line with the fender. Also as in your picture some even have an arrow, it should point in to the engine bay.

I did Truharts and springs about 7000 miles ago and I dont have any noises, Im very happy with the results. Sometimes by lowering you are changing the orientation of some of the parts in their bushing (like the sway bar is lifted) and it takes a little driving for them to start moving smoothly again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks xaran.

When you tightened the cap nut did it spin the part I am questioning?

The strut mount is in correct position when bolted into the car/frame.

The Hyundai service advisor said you SHOULD use an impact gun for the struts nut. And then condescendingly said 'when you use the right tools, you dont have a problem...'

I am now wondering if it is not tightened all the way?

But to me, if it is already too tight and not spinning 'freely', it is rather spinning the bushing inside the strut mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Did you just use a normal wrench/ratchet? At a certain point, any attempt to tighten the top hat/strut nut will only make the internals rotate without actually tightening down. An impact wrench or a strut wrench/socket may have to be used to torque down the top nut properly.

But then again, like @xaran said changing suspension can skew other components. Im dealing with some issues on my Truharts with D2 springs as well. Front end clunk and a lot of bounce. Used an impact wrench on my install for reference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
SJ408 thanks for the reply. I used a standard 1/2” ratchet. The TruHart instructions state do not use an impact gun or it may strip out.

I’d say it is torqued pretty darn good using the ratchet. I was able to scrape together some tools to keep the strut shaft from spinning, somewhat.

I feel the TruHarts provide a good amount of damping so there is not much bounce on my setup. There is an intial bounce of going over a bump, but it quickly recovers and doesn’t rebound for a second ‘bump’ due to the stiffer springs. (It does not continue bounce again and again)

oh, and now during lunch break..... no noise! Oy...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
SJ408 thanks for the reply. I used a standard 1/2” ratchet. The TruHart instructions state do not use an impact gun or it may strip out.

I’d say it is torqued pretty darn good using the ratchet. I was able to scrape together some tools to keep the strut shaft from spinning, somewhat.

I feel the TruHarts provide a good amount of damping so there is not much bounce on my setup. There is an intial bounce of going over a bump, but it quickly recovers and doesn’t rebound for a second ‘bump’ due to the stiffer springs. (It does not continue bounce again and again)

oh, and now during lunch break..... no noise! Oy...
Yeah that’s what i was expecting which is why i was a little surprised by how much bounce i get over bumps. It feels like i drive over a small bump, then a quick heavy drop/dump of my front end, followed by one or two smaller bounces. Im gonna be swapping over to Megan Racing springs cuz my rear is a little too low for my liking on the D2’s, so maybe ill see a difference in the front end too.
You should drive it around and let it settle for a week or two and see if the sounds go away. Xaran also mentioned to me that it may take some time for everything to settle and readjust to where they should be. Good luck to you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
I use a impact gun on all of the strut changes Ive done for the past 30 years. Never had a problem but you have to know your tools and have a feel for how tight it will go.

As long as you got it all the way down and the top hat is tight that should not be giving you any problems. yes mine did still turn, not freely spin but is could be turned.

Im getting better overall suspension characteristics than the stock dampers, I believe the car handles much flatter that stock, no brake dive( springs more than shocks) but on rebound there is no bouncy feeling that Ive experienced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again Xaran. I agree.

I should clarify that the inner ring + bushing does not spin freely - it is very tight actually. My concern was that it was not supposed to be rotated at all, or that it was directional. And we know now that it may be rotated, and is not directional.

Overall I am very happy with the TruHarts and Megan springs. I suppose I was just being a bit paranoid of the 'new noise'... but we're on day two now, and the noise has not returned :)

View attachment 445291
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
Thanks again Xaran. I agree.

Overall I am very happy with the TruHarts and Megan springs. I suppose I was just being a bit paranoid of the 'new noise'... but we're on day two now, and the noise has not returned :)

View attachment 445291
Even with a spring purchase they are about half the cost of replacing with OEM struts and shocks (using original springs) and since there are no other options they are a bargain. I think they are better performing than the OEM and depending on your spring choice it can be a 1" to 2.5" drop. I went mild and my springs now settled are a 1.25" drop it is enough to close the gap in the wheel wells but not enough that I have any problems scraping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
Thanks again Xaran. I agree.

I should clarify that the inner ring + bushing does not spin freely - it is very tight actually. My concern was that it was not supposed to be rotated at all, or that it was directional. And we know now that it may be rotated, and is not directional.

Overall I am very happy with the TruHarts and Megan springs. I suppose I was just being a bit paranoid of the 'new noise'... but we're on day two now, and the noise has not returned :)

View attachment 445291
How long did it take for your springs to settle? I feel like i still have a huge gap on my truhart/megans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I’d say there was over a week of settling. After two weeks now, you could tell if you compare photos back to back. You may not notice just by eyeing up the car everyday.

However, there was no gap after the install was finished. The photo in my first post is immediately after install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
I’d say there was over a week of settling. After two weeks now, you could tell if you compare photos back to back. You may not notice just by eyeing up the car everyday.

However, there was no gap after the install was finished. The photo in my first post is immediately after install.
I cant get your second attachment to open , can you repost pictures , Id like to see how yours sits compared to mine. My springs were a 1.25" drop after settling and your Megans are 1.5 and 1.25 plus any settling.

Or if possible measure from the bottom of the center cap on the wheel to the fender (that was the points I used to see how much it dropped over stock and after settling). Mine is 16" before the drop was 17.25". Front and rear is exactly the same on my car

Also are you on stock tire size 235/45/18 on the stock rims? Im on 245/45/18 on stock rims so my tire diameter is about 1/2 inch larger, so car was about 1/4' higher and my tire to fender gap was a little less before the lowering

Thanks
445610
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I have stock rims and 235/45 tire size. I have not measured to find out. I'll try later today and repost.

After Install:
445612



After about 1week:
445613
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
Thanks for the response.

Really hard for me to see if there is any difference in the pictures.

But your car looks good, I think a mild drop of not more than 1.5" on our cars is a good look and doesnt seen to cause any rubbing, bottoming out etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Had a chance to measure from bottom of center cap to fender:

15-1/4” to 3/8, front
15-3/8” to 1/2, rear
7-1/4” front lip (ground clearance)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
I’m gonna measure my drop next weekend; hoping the rear drops more. Im kinda wanting to swap back to my D2’s with how little the rear has dropped on mine. Lol the D2’s are TOO low and Megan’s arent low enough. Would consider coils again, but dont want to deal with maintenance/rebuild. Maybe go back to D2’s and get a spring spacer?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Finally a chance to write more than a sentence at a time....

SJ408 - post some pictures. The rear of yours is similar to the pictures above?

Xaran - now that you mention it, the aspect ratio of your tires does fill out the wheel well a bit more. I think the gap looks identical from your front to rear. Near perfect :) Love the view. I hope you get to carve those mountains well.

There is still small scrunch on rainy days when turning the steering wheel. It is not throughout the whole stroke, usually the first 1/4 turn off from center. I have not rotated the bushings since install. Overall I'm happy, just wish the damping was slightly quicker still.

Rough road is just fine, although noisy. Twisties are great. It's the quick smooth bumps that heave the car a bit suddenly. Or dips quickly, but rebounds quite well most of the time. It is surprising if you don't expect it.

I've had this car for about two months now. 50k miles on it. The sound of the car and suspension is very hollow. Like a hollow clunk. Not a sharp 'i forgot to tighten a bolt' noise at all. But a strange sound which I guess is just how it is. Sounds like there's not enough sound deadening. I'm sure the suspension is solid, just doesn't sound like it.

And the motor... ugh that ticking. Contemplate getting an exhaust to not hear the poor motor. The intake helps, but I don't know what it is... it doesn't sound very good in my opinion. It was boosting around 15psi max, stock. Now I also have the Lap3 on 91 octane. Boosts about 20psi max now, with 93 in the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
Finally a chance to write more than a sentence at a time....

SJ408 - post some pictures. The rear of yours is similar to the pictures above?

Xaran - now that you mention it, the aspect ratio of your tires does fill out the wheel well a bit more. I think the gap looks identical from your front to rear. Near perfect :) Love the view. I hope you get to carve those mountains well.

It was boosting around 15psi max, stock. Now I also have the Lap3 on 91 octane. Boosts about 20psi max now, with 93 in the tank.
Thanks TwoPointSlow. yes Im up in the Angeles Crest area of So cal. A lot of great high speed canyon roads (45-90 mph) up here. its fun to get out on them , some times on the last 18 mile of my commute I take the canyon instead of the freeway just to break up the drive. Mostly enjoy the canyons on my motorcycles on the weekends.

Are you happy with the performance using the Lap 3 chip? Ever experience any over boost that puts it into "limp mode"? I had a Burger chip on my MBZ C250 and once in a while it would trigger a CEL and put the car into limp mode. Would have to shut it off and restart and it would clear, its was a semi common thing on the C250.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The Lap3 is a good improvement. Best cost/HP mod. I didn’t want to run it maxed out on the 93octane setting as this Sonata is my daily. And I do not plan on playing around or tuning with it.

It does fall on its face after about 5.5k rpms tho. Meaning, it pulls well up till that point then just levels off dramatically. No point in going past 6k rpms.

I was torn between the Lap3 and the JB4 because I had experience with Burger on my old 535. Ultimately the ease of install and just ‘set it and forget it’ is what won me over. I’d say do it :)
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top