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Discussion Starter #21
On this video, I had hood opened and rested my phone under there to pick up better audio. I was desperate to leave and pick up my kids so I tried stepping on the gas pedal while turning the key and the car finally started (at 1:13 of the video)
https://youtu.be/qgD4u3XrySw
 

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I wonder if it could be as simple as clogged fuel filter. I see your car has about 87K miles (or is that kilometres?)
Also, have you changed the air filter lately?
 

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Have you done any checks on the engine when it won't start?
Example is to spray starter fluid into in take (avoid hitting MAF if you have one)
If it starts easy and does every time you have the starting issue then fuel related
Check for spark, injector pulse, fuel rail pressure, etc

Or if you like to throw parts at the car trying to fix it .... just joking
Did that once, told my friend his problem was the crank sensor, just joking
He went and changed it and it fixed the problem, dumb luck
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The car is parked inside an unheated garage. I just came back from vacation and the car been sitting in the garage in below freezing temperature and guess what? started on the first try....The problem is really random and the only consistent factor is it happens only in winter.

I wish I can say "Yay! I am a trouble maker and there really is no problem" but the problem is real and you can see the same complaints from owners with the same model years all over the Internet. Sad thing is most people haven't been able to figure out the problem as of yet.
 

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The car is parked inside an unheated garage. I just came back from vacation and the car been sitting in the garage in below freezing temperature and guess what? started on the first try....The problem is really random and the only consistent factor is it happens only in winter.

I wish I can say "Yay! I am a trouble maker and there really is no problem" but the problem is real and you can see the same complaints from owners with the same model years all over the Internet. Sad thing is most people haven't been able to figure out the problem as of yet.

Where you able to ever get this figured out? I seem to have a similar issue with my 2015 that just started in the last few months. Today went outside to start it up and had to feather the throttle just to keep it alive. I drove it to work so hopefully, it starts when I leave today.
 

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Where you able to ever get this figured out? I seem to have a similar issue with my 2015 that just started in the last few months. Today went outside to start it up and had to feather the throttle just to keep it alive. I drove it to work so hopefully, it starts when I leave today.
Assuming you have an automatic...

1) Inhibitor switch - Had a no start problem on my 2012 - very sporadic and odd symptoms - sometimes it would start but bogged down and idle really rough for a little bit - more commonly it just wouldn't start - I'd leave it for an hour, two, a day, whatever and eventually it would start again like nothing was wrong

Ended up it was the Inhibitor Switch (sits on top of the transmission, fairly easy to swap out, need a drill bit or something to line it up properly before you tighten the new one down, on my 2012 it was an all plastic casing, the updated new one I got was half plastic and half aluminum and a lot better made)

2) Alternator fuse casing connection at the battery terminal - Had a rough idle - these seem to be programmed to idle low, plus they are a 4cyl so they naturally idle a little rough, and if the rings aren't sealing well because of the engine defect, that adds to it, but this was more so than normal for a few days and then my battery light came on. Alternator tested bad on the car because of the connection but I didn't know that at the time, after a new alternator and battery I figured out the problem.

The fuse itself tests fine, the alternator wire tests fine, it was just an intermittent problem. And it looked fine, maybe the slightest of color like the connection got a little hot, but not noticeable unless you really look at it.

Note -
1) If you come across a free site let me know, but I ended up using https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/ for info.
2) If you ever swap out the alternator - double check but for my Elantra the 2014 Tuscan alternator was a direct fit, and it's a 120 amp alt which works well if you add a small amp for the stereo
3) Hyundai tech says not to do this but I sanded down the ground for the fuel pump as well and used a stainless bolt and washer
4) Clean the throttle body - Hyundai posted a service bulletin about this problem - it's caused by blow by from the piston/cylinder bore problems with the 1.8L Nu engines - I put an oil separator from a 2013 Ford Focus on the PCV hose too, I think Steeda made it, but any oil separator would help slow down the buildup in the throttle body.

Good Luck!! Let us know what it was.
 

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Crank sensor. Mine did similar. Would start, but when driven to about about 2000-2500 rpm, would just die. Then act like a no fuel start.. Slowly would start kicking off, each start attempt getting progressively better until it stayed running. Drives normal until the next time cold. Replaced sensor even though no check engine light. Problem has never come back since last 22000 miles.

Hypper--replace the batteries in BOTH your fobs. Should be a C2032 IIRC.
 

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Where you able to ever get this figured out? I seem to have a similar issue with my 2015 that just started in the last few months. Today went outside to start it up and had to feather the throttle just to keep it alive. I drove it to work so hopefully, it starts when I leave today.
Mine did the same thing this morning. It always seems to be after there was a lot of rain in the night before. I had this issue back in 2018 around march but I wasn’t using my car due to an injury and they guy at the dealer says humidity in the cylinders is related to this problem.
 
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