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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

First, Yes I am new to this forum. I have scoured the internet and your forums but have yet to see anything exactly like this issue so I am looking for any experience, advice, or thoughts you have. I have owned my Elantra for 2 years, it now has about 77,500 miles on it. I do know that this motor is questionable, ticking time bomb (now)...

Second, the Elantra was bought used, with 49,000 miles (trouble free till around November, made worse in sub 0 weather), but this voided the 100000 mile power train warranty.

Third, the car was used by Enterprise Rental. I knew this going in, but also know they maintain their cars. I hoped I made a good decision. Now I am not sure... Saving some $ upfront may kick my but now.

Location: Detroit, issue seems to be made much worse in winter temps.

The car: 2014 Elantra sedan with the 1.8L. (Base car, no frills). I am now not driving it, because it almost caused me to be pancaked by a Semi when the motor entered limp mode on the freeway / stalling on regular roads. I can't put my kids in an unsafe car.

The issue: On dead cold or luke warm restarts, the motor starts acting up by misfiring when driving down the road after getting on it. The check engine light flashes. Only once has it actually illuminated fully. In every case it has turned off after a couple of steady miles of gas pedal usage. Then the car drives normally and the check engine lights goes out. The codes are not stored in the system, so it is very hard to record data for this event.

Updated issue: The engine will completely stall when in this cold state and you floor it. Also seen the engine start and then stall before driving.

What sets it off: Typically seen when you start the car and start to drive it, giving gas to pull into traffic or passing others (full throttle).

The Dealer: I have taken this to the dealer multiple times. The first time they had it a week, but couldnt replicate the issue. I paid their diagnostic fee to have them check the car out but they couldn't find any issues. The day I picked it up, I drove it home in the morning and in the afternoon took it out and was able to replicate it. I was able to drive to the dealer and they pulled Engine codes: P0302, P0304, and P0301.

What I have done: Changed plugs. Changed coils. Paid the dealer to investigate. Oil changed at 5k intervals, with mobile 1 and usually a fram oil filter.

Hyundai dealer recommends replacing motor even though all Techline tests passed, to the tune of $7.5K (4500 for the motor and 2k for the labor), which is more than this car is worth. Thankfully I dont have a note that I am paying on, but still dont have 7K to fix it.

What I am looking for: First has anyone else had this issue? If so were you able to resolve with out a new motor and if so what fixed it?
Second, since a motor replacement is likely, I would hope to find a good place near Detroit to have it done. Recommendations?
Third: Any other recommendations to resolve this?

My thoughts: This almost seems electricial / computer related. But if Hyundai couldnt find it how could I?

Thank you all in advance.
-Ryan
 

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How old is the battery, have you gone through the whole car and found every ground you can find and clean or at least reset it and go to home depot and use Anti-Ox grease they use for aluminum wire, it carry s current and stops corrosion. $4.00 or less Add an extra motor and an extra transmission grounding strap Bring another negative ground down from the negative battery terminal to the chassis and jump it to the head and block . ( 8 ga wire with copper connectors ) After this if nothing changes I would go to another dealer and give them a shot. Nothing there, I would do below on my own.



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Noalox-0-5-oz-Anti-Oxidant-Joint-Compound-30-024/202276207



https://www.homedepot.com/p/Steel-C...to-14-Solid-Wire-10-Pieces-L70-B2-5/202487478




Unless you have the "Hyundai Tick of Death " why get a new motor. PLUS I think they owe you one since it is a WORLD WIDE problem. I would get a city picket permit at city hall and go down to your local Hyundai dealer, go to a sign shop and get a 4ft x 8 ft sign made glue or screw it to a sheet of 1/2 plywood and take some vacation. Hyundai CHOSE to ignore the issue in their testing and first couple of years they made each motor this is happen to. A full long block redesign was in order and they chose not to change their crapp design.



I would pull all computer plugs (after disconnecting the battery) and make sure to do a couple install and pull out cycles. Makes sure no pins are pushed back into the plug (male) and look that all female pin receivers are there and not pushed back. Reset all fuses and clean the positive terminal fuse connector assembly. Look for grounds under the rear seat carpet and back seat area. I think the fuel pump ground is back there. Plan on a FULL Saturday and rip your car apart hitting every possible area for grounds. Also check and cycle the sensor and positioning plugs and check for bad male/female pins there too. IE crank, cam ect...


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Mania,

Thank you for the detailed reply. The battery was replaced prior to be buying the car. Not sure if it was done by the used car dealer or Enterprise, but I suspect the former as the car sat on their lot for a year.

I never considered the grounds. I did read a bit about people getting better performance by adding them, but not anything like my issue. I will add this to my list of things to try.

The motor has a noise like the lifters rattle a little. Similar to other cars I have owned. Wish I could hear a true tick of death to compare. The new engine is just the response from the Dealer. They said they had one car that acted similar and were able to correct the issue with a new motor, provided under warranty.

I have contacted Corporate, asking them for assistance since the car is so new and now dangerous to drive. I have yet to hear back, but it should be any time now.

Seems as though I have some work ahead of me. Hopefully it will make the car safe to drive again.

Again many thanks...
-Ryan
 

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Any strange noises under the hood aside from the normal noisy 4cyl. I had similar symptoms on an older vehicle due to a collapsed vacuum hose. Not even sure if dealer techs check for things like this anymore but now that the weather is warming up get up into everything under the hood and give it a careful and through inspection.

If everything looks good the old school next step would involve a can of seafoam half in the gas tank and half sucked in a vac line followed by flooring it around the neighborhood blowing out black smoke. Next you would change/check oil, fuel, and air filters and the pcv valve. I suppose an engine flush is the modern equivalent of this.

Do you have any greasy old garages nearby that have been around forever? Maybe they will have better luck with your diagnosis than a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hyundai corporate contacted me back and said they approved a prior approval inspection. The dealer that did the inspection that said I needed the motor was booked through the end of next week so I took it to a different dealer. As of yesterday they can't replicate the issue. Which may be due to the warmer weather now.

They did say that they are not sure it needs a motor. So right now I can't do anything other than pray they find the issue.

Tracking this gremlin down is getting harder, as I now live in an apartment. No garage to work in. So I may be forced to just dump the car. Which I hate to do. I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The new dealer contacted me back and said they believe they have identified the issue. I did not fully understand what it is, but it has something to do with the oiling system internal to the motor. If I understood correctly it either gets overwhelmed and cant keep up or it gets swamped and cant keep up. In either case this causes the motor to go into limp mode to protect the motor. Seems odd the oiling system would cause 3 of the 4 cylinders to misfire.

At this point I am waiting for Hyundai corporate to either approve or deny their requests for repair. I will update again when I get a better understanding of what the issue is and the codes they found.
 

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The new dealer contacted me back and said they believe they have identified the issue. I did not fully understand what it is, but it has something to do with the oiling system internal to the motor. If I understood correctly it either gets overwhelmed and cant keep up or it gets swamped and cant keep up. In either case this causes the motor to go into limp mode to protect the motor. Seems odd the oiling system would cause 3 of the 4 cylinders to misfire.

At this point I am waiting for Hyundai corporate to either approve or deny their requests for repair. I will update again when I get a better understanding of what the issue is and the codes they found.
Curious, what weight oil are you running? This discussion came up in another thread yesterday where a Hyundai tech told me they had seen the 1.8L engine go into limp, misfire, throw codes when running 10W30 oil. Said it was due to the oil pressure controlled CVVT not get the proper pressure due to the oil port supplying the cam timing being small and (for want of a better word) "tuned" for 5W20 oil. Said the ones they have seen were corrected by going back to 5W20. Shows up typically in cooler weather on a cold engine.
 

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I run 0W-30 year round. Hyundai just can't build a good motor is what it is.



We can all hope the guy from BMW who is running the Hyundai N program demanded a good engine shortblock design. I bet he saw lower end failures left and right for the first month on the track if they used existing block designs.


Hyundai's elevated oil pressure is there to mask a problem, seems not to be helping much.


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"I run 0W-30 year round. Hyundai just can't build a good motor is what it is."

And yet there are 1.8L engines on the road with over 100K miles on them without issue. Don't condemn the entire design on the basis of a small percentage of failures. Understand that those with issues will raise ****, while the vast majority of owners without issues are silent.

0W-30 is not a recommended oil for this engine. As the dealer has already pointed out there is an oil related issue I hope that any damage or failure is not traced back to using an oil not specified by the manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Since I have owned the car - 2 years now, I have only run Mobile 1 - 5w20 through it. I change it religiously at 5000 miles. I do however use various oil filters, with no difference in behavior using OEM vs aftermarket.
 
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