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Discussion Starter #1
It only does it when I stop hard then lasts a few seconds. This is second set of pads on OEM rotors calipers 60,000 miles. It’s that same grind you get when you just found a completely shot pad or a small rock got jammed in there except my pads are looking great, at least the outer ones I can see without removing the wheel.
This only happens when I brake en I feel the slight drag for a few seconds like it’s hanging up . It might last up to 20 seconds that almost unnoticeable drag and then its gone. It seems early for a caliper to be going south mileage wise although y daughters 15 Elantra started doing somewhat similar things but more sticking and dragging than grinding . I yanked those and cleaned heck out of it and it went away. So what is it with these cars and their temperamental brakes?


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Did you check the pins to make certain that they move in/out easily? The brackets get corroded and the sliders freeze.


Pads move in hardware? The pads are a tight fit when new, so make certain that they can move freely in the hardware. Have had some that I've needed to pry the pads away from the rotors, and I do grind back the ears on the new pads before installing.


Use an infrared thermometer, not very expensive, to check rotor temps at each wheel after driving. Sometimes amazed at the temp difference when a brake is hanging up.
 

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Mis-Match friction co-efficient for load made.. you will hear a nice sandpaper friction-groan type sound,, same effect as chalk on a slate at right load and speed..
 

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Odd my Volkswagen (yeah not related) is doing exactly the same thing. I cleaned the slides and caliber guides and it seems to have gone away after doing a re bed of the pads. But time will tell. Just did it yesterday.

See if you notice any pad residue on the rotors too. I'd suggest cleaning that up too. Apparently brake pad material can cake onto the rotors and then cause a warped rotor feeling.

Just remember if you do a bedding in, to let the brakes cool and don't stay on the brakes when they're hot. Find a nice long rural road :)

I also gave my pads a light sand to yield a fresh surface.


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Really nothing wrong with "these cars" and their brakes.

Issues are caused by shortcuts and hack brake work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Really nothing wrong with "these cars" and their brakes.

Issues are caused by shortcuts and hack brake work.


Well let’s just say in 45 years of doing my own I never had this sort of issue. Combine that with the Hyundai supposed service requirement of “ cleaning” that I never once encountered . Then the Elantra acting up randomly and being magically fixed by my cleaning leads one to wonder doesn’t it? I’m not one who gives much credence to ?coincidences .


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Stuff not mentioned in the original post:
Did you turn or replace the rotors?
Did you clean/grease everything as needed, with the correct grease?
Did you install new brake hardware?
Did you bleed the brakes?
What brand/PN pads?

Being lucky for 45 years doesn't mean doing something incorrectly will always be perfect. Pad slappers take a risk with shortcuts and shouldn't complain.

I don't think Hyundai has quality parts or grease suppliers. And, not sure of the dealer competence level or any indie mechanic either. If done correctly, brake cleaning/greasing should only need to be done at every brake job and not seasonally. Non worn boots and quality grease shouldn't wash out. But, with rust melting chemicals and road salt, you rustbelters will need to adapt to the newer winter road chems. Brake components are exposed and attacked by salt chlorides and ice melt acetates and mixtures. Some of the issues can be prevented by a weekly car wash with a rustproofing rinse.

In a car wash with a good undercarriage spray, the car wash undercarriage spray water will mist over everything and help:
https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-14357-simoniz-rustite-undercarriage-spray-5-gallon.aspx

Let the car dissolving and brake problems begin:
https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/operating/oom/transportation-maintenance/snow-and-ice

Good caliper silicone grease:
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-08887-80609-Caliper-Grease/dp/B00P2QMDLQ[/ame]
Silaramic® Brake System Grease, 5 Wt Oz - 05361
https://www.permatex.com/products/l...licone-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant/
Silicone Brake Grease
MPT Industries - MPT Silicone/PTFE High Performance Lubricant Sealant

And, a good list of torques for that torque wrench... since gudntite doesn't cut it with newer cars.
Hyundai Sonata: Specifications - General Information - Brake System - Hyundai Sonata YF 2011-2018 Service Manual

And, Carlson/Raybestos/Wagner/ACDelco/Beckarnley usually have a good selection of pins/boots/hardware/bolts for most makes/models/years...
https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/en-us/catalog-part-search.html
 

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It sounds like when ABS sensor is working, but it can also be the bad wheel bearing. When you drive on highway at 65+ mph, if you feel more vibration when turn right than turn left or go straight, that's bad left wheel bearing
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh I found the problem. e brake dragging along on what seems to be rust and chunks of old pad. How they got back there who knows as they are from the old set replaced 2 years ago . that’s never been used I had to hit Utube to figure out how to get that caliper bracket off. Never had to do that before . Never had to unbolt and pry away a control arm to yank a disk either. The online manual didn’t mention that either. Surely some genius engineer saved 1lb per car by planting that bolt directly behind that arm. Jim The Car Guy said “ Hyundai dropped the ball on that one” and I agree.
Funny you mention Northern winters and washing the underside. I spend more time hosing down the underside than the top, always have . I still see the same sort of issues at 5 years 60000 that I always did at 10 / 120000. My buddy with a 2012 reminded me today his rotors were crapped out at 30k and all and he just drives it 25 miles straight up a country Interstate back and forth to work. Funny yet another coworker who was relieved of his by a wreck had the same sort of luck. I guess were all just lucky “pad slappers” who’s luck ran out with the same series and model car. What a coincidence ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A week later I’m sure it’s been dragging. Mileage hopped back to 28 - 29 mpg immediately after and remained that way Too bad it dropped off to 25-26 ish 3 1/2 years ago?. I now know why. Funny thing is that it’s so subtle I never noticed when changing the pads or rotating the tires. I’ll be doing the other side when I feel like more under car fun.
The unfortunate thing is having to drop that control rod to get in there and clean it up.


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Discussion Starter #13
My best impression here. I never once used the thing being an automatic. Disk brakes definitely were ok to the point I put the old ones back on later. I noticed a bit of hub drag rolling it with my hand with the caliper off. Not much, more like a drive axle in in neutral, more a weight than drag impression.
So off comes the disk after battling with the suspension arm. Nothing terrible to see on the old one so I try the fit of the new disk and feel the same drag. Off it comes again and I roll the E. Brake adjuster full in. There is still some drag so I go back in and rap the shoes around to push them in and recenter them. That seemed to free it up more so I left it and put it back in service. I had a set right there but theres no way I want thicker shoes on so I left the old ones after cleaning up the old ones. Still some meat there so good nuff for something that doesn’t get used anyways.
Honestly I never expected the gas mileage improvement. If I notice any more mileage drop as a trend not season change (winter gas) Im going to check that star wheel adjuster through the port in the hub and or adjust the E brake pedal adjustment out. I only wish it was nice and easy like my Hondas where you just pull up the storage cubby hole in the center console and turn the nut. If it happens again and I need to pull that ^%$# rotor I will be safety wire or otherwise disable that star roller so it can’t move.
I havent even done the other side yet when my buddy calls me wanting to change his 2012s brake pads.........and guess which ones! He said his were about shot after less than 30K almost all interstate with no real city driving on either end. Great,










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