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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, My 2013 Hyundai Sonata hybrid limited VIN #KMHEC4A48DA088569
rolled to a stop with a Hybrid error message "pull over don't drive" this is the second time to have happened over a 3 year period.
Next, I Towed to a dealership. they replaced the hybrid switch, the car will now turn on, but it didn't fix the issue. Next they said it would need a Hybrid Power Control Unit(HPCU)
So, I had the car towed again to a different dealership, for a second opinion. They agreed but they said it Also, need a Transmission, over $10,000 dollar estimate.
So, i've towed back to my house, and now trying to fix it myself. From reading other forum links decided to try and replace the following parts.
Using "Used parts", at a fraction of the cost, i have replaced the following items:

#1.) Hybrid Power Control Unit HPCU P/N#37513-E7000, $150 ebay
#2.) Drive Motor Inverter P/N 36600-3D002 $290 ebay
#3.) HSG P/N#37390-2G920 $100 salvage yard.

Now, i'm reading the error codes, as follows.

P0A78/History Drive motor A inverter performance
P0C17/Active Drive motor A position sensor not learned
P1C76/Active Geneator position sensor not learned

The Motor/HSG resolver calibration must be performed. Which I attempted to do using my Foxwell NT510 OBD2 tool, But it failed.
I heard some clicks from the engine compartment, and jerky engine movements, then the error message that it failed and to check the
test conditions:
1. GEAP P Shifter in Park Yes
2. HEV ready GREEN LED HEV on dash lite, indicates ready Yes.
3. SOC 30~80% assuming this is the battery charge level battery is charging if you keep your foot on the brake when engine turns on: so, Yes
4. NO DTC Diagnostic trouble codes only these 3 error codes, so it this is ok too.

  • If i put the gear shifter into neutral and attempt the calibration, it immediately fails, with no engine noises or jerks. So i'm assuming i am meeting all these conditions.
  • also, the gear shifter LED indicates shows it in all positions. P, N, D. assuming the switch is ok.
  • from reading other forums, they said the transmission pump might have failed causing it to fail calibration, So I removed the transmission pump cover, ie the 4 screws near the bottom of engine. I try and verify the pump is turning. I set the gears in a position then put the cover back on, started the car, and run engine then remove the cover, and expecting to see the gears in a different position. However the position was the same, implying the motor is not turning?
Any ideas, from anyone would be appreciated. The car has 200850 miles, but is still in great shape, would like to get it going again.
 

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Hi. I think you have the common problem called a ''Hybrid Oil Pump'' failure. It sits on the transmission and feeds it.
Everything else might not have been needed!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, I will do more test. Do you know if the pump has any electrical testing, such as resistance measurements? I'm just surprised that the Engine and transmission passed the scan testing?
 

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When mine went, the car had road side service and ended up at the dealer. The mechanic believed it was the Hybrid oil pump but wasn't sure. It went all the way to Hyundai Canada who backed up the switch on the guarantee. It did not throw the best of code or codes. There had to do some interpetation. In 2015-16 RockAuto did sell replacements for about $500. But not now. A lot of pumps on this car are electric. This one was changed from under the hood. Its is frequently changed, I believe. All transmission related.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I DId more testing, this is what i found. Using the scan tool, under the trans live data, it showed that the oil pump was actually working with a RPM of 2400 and was changing in value. I decided to go back and focus on the main error code P0A78. I found online manuals at http://www.alldatadiy.com/ that gave the test to check the HPCU and Electric motor. following the 270VDC high voltage precaution removing the fuse in the truck and waiting 5 minutes for the HPCU to discharge, and disconnecting the 12VDC low voltage battery.
I found the motor should have infinite resistance from the ground to each of the 3 terminals of the electric motor. I was reading 17.4 ohms to ground on each of the motor terminals. Also was reading zero resistance to each of the motor wires to each other that's probably ok. Anyway, looks like one of the two Hyundai shops was correct. seeing that the electric motor is part of the transmission assembly. Could have done this test first in about 30 minutes, but i didn't have the scan tool, nor the online manuals. Youtube has videos on how to remove the transmission. seems doable, if i get that far, i'll post results here.
A side note, Foxwell NT510 OBD2 tool, under the life data on the High voltage battery, did show the battery state of charge, individual battery cell voltage and vara
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Problem solved! All error codes gone,and it passed the Motor/HSG resolver calibration. I've drove it over 150 miles, all's AOK.
I was able to replace the transmission and electric motor with a used 2014 kia optima hybrid with 78K miles on it. for $740. The VIN's 8th digit on mine is a "4" the compatible optima is VIN "D" Ebay has got a lot of stuff for this model.
I used two low floor jacks from harbor freight tools, item 61232, 39178 450 lbs. Low Lift Transmission Jack 1 of them to hold the engine, and the other to hold the transmission. I put the car up on SUV jack stands, as high as they would go (but first, loosen the front wheel drive axle nuts). The job was not that bad, (follow high voltage safety procedure) so, you remove the air intake and the inverter. thats the thing on the rightside under the inverter cooler fluid holder, now you have access to all the connectors on top of the transmission to disconnect them.and the shifter. just take pictures of everything. and put the screws back into where they go after removing the stuff. the inverter water pump is mounted on the transmission near the bottom middle back. just take off the one screw on the round clamp to remove it. leave the bracket on. Drain the transmission fluid. When adding it back, i used a flud pump and pump it back into the level check plug at the front black plastic panel. Next remove the drive axles both sides, and then the subframe, here's a youtube video. you can use a floor jack to hold it up. youtube video Transmission removal ,
There are about 6 bolts that hold the transmission to the engine. once unbolted, you need to lower the engine jack as much as possible, the limiting factor is the leftside crackshaft and pulleys will get very close the the leftside car frame, next start lowering the trans jack, there is a large round metal disk that is bolted to the engine, so it stays with the engine, just keep lowering the trans and pry it away from the engine. it will drop down, though it doesnt look like it would. once out, i would recommend removing the electric motor from the trans. then put it on a vice and separate the stator from the armature, and inspect for the bad spot. just look for something burnt, i found a bumpy looking black spot, then i dug into the insulator, and found one of the connectors got very hot, and broke loose for the coil pack.(see pics)
A side note. I forgot to connect the large black ground cable on the inverter's right side and i got a flashing "NOT READY" message on the dash, and after about 5 mintues the low voltage 12VDC battery LED came on. I noticed the battery voltage being pulled down to about 9VDC until all kinds of error messages and codes started POPPING off! After i put the black cable on, all these problems immediately went away. doing it yourself will be the only thing that makes sense.... good luck.
 

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2014 HSH Limited, black. With rear vents and heated seats! 165,000 km (103,000 miles) :)
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I didn't understand most of what you wrote. But I'm really happy to see that you got this done yourself for a fraction of what they quoted you for. And thanks for sharing! May not seem like a big deal to you, but once something is posted here, it's here forever, and can help untold amounts of people down the line. Enjoy the next 109,000 miles!
 

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So what is under that black burnt spot under the connector for the coil? Almost looks like that wire in the connector wasn't in all the way from the factory causing resistance and heat. Something got really hot indeed!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
There are 3 copper bars looking things that run all the way around the circle separated by the black insulator, and they attach to the 3 terminals going out of the motor to the inverter, and on this picture side the burnt side, they attach to the coil packs. ( see pics) I believe one of the 3 terminals energizes 1/3th quadrant of the coil packs to turn the motor 1 third the way around. Interestingly, where the wire attached to the coil pack, that's the U shape bend, there is no solder, it's only crimped around the wire coming up out of the coil pack.
Also, the picture doesn't show, but the wire below was complete burnt open and no longer connected to the coil pack at this pack.
I'm not sure what caused the low resistance connection to the transmission's ground (chassis) that caused the test to fail, but i think this heated up isolation material changed in resistance from over 10 meg normal, to around 17 ohms.
 

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