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Discussion Starter #1
Recently and randomly our 2013 santa fe sport 2.0t (62000kms/38000mi) will take a bit longer to start. Battery replaced 6 months ago. Instead of normal 1-2 sec to start SOMETIMES it will take 6-7 sec to start. NO CHECK engine light and vehicle doesn't feel sluggish or rough idling at all.
Looked around and found this
440648


Is it normal to have this gap (horizontal blue arrow)?
There is a tiny wiggle movement on fuel line (vertical blue arrow) 2-3mm (1/8"). Is this normal?
Thanks for ANY advice before I start replacing pump or something else..
 

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My wife has a 2.4L 2014 (engine recently replaced) and had this problem a few years back. It would do this randomly and then one time it wouldn't start, I left it sit for 30 seconds, then it started. Worked fine for 2 years after that and had them replace the gas line filter but my mechanic said it was fine. Never found out what it was....
 

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My 2013 20T, 47000mi, is having the same start problems. First thing the dealer did was change the high pressure fuel pump. The problem returned 2 days later. It is back at the dealership now. No warranty coverage since it is outside all the time frames except the 10/100. But the 10/100 doesn't cover fuel pumps. $785.00 so far. Possibly low pressure fuel pump??
 

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If nothing is showing as out of spec when checked you may need to risk waiting until the issue becomes more of a problem. I know that sucks, but the alternatives is to continue replacing parts based upon nest assumptions. This is NOT an unusual situation. I talk to engineering multiples times every week on items where we may be able to see a symptom (Or the owner states it does "X") and there are no DTCs or other indicators to point us in any given direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update:
It is been now 4-5 days and EVERY time car starts fine ( no delays or extra "crancking").
Fuel economy is good, no CEL or rough idling...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update:
It got better last few weeks or so. EVERY start is normal and no issues. Weather was cooler (less then +30C).
Today got hotter (+32C) and after car sat in a parking lot for few hours it took 4-5 sec to start (!?).
Again no check engine light or any other symptoms (fuel economy normal).
Suggestions...
 

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mskip, mine is the same way. now, where I live, it is consistent 90+F right now. Starting from cold in the garage, starts right up. Drive a few miles in this heat, park a little while and it is a long start. I'm baffled. Dealership says they need a code to do anything further. Could it possibly be some kind of vapor lock occurring with the heat? I only discount that because with fuel injection you shouldn't ever have vapor lock. Good thing I got AAA to haul it in when it does final die....with a code....
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)

So far I am leaning toward 2 culprits:



1. Vapor canister purge valve ( vapor line from canister "tank" to intake - under turbo air intake manifold/ hoses)

or

2.Vapor canister "tank" (under a vehicle - next to gas tank)



STILL
no CEL or any other symptoms (rough idling, poor fuel economy, no power, rpm surging etc...)
Only happens in hot weather (thus directed me to vapor/fuel line not doing it "purging" cycle)
 

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Thanks Mskip. Amazes me there is still no code thrown. Vapor canister is a good possibility I'll throw at the dealer next time, although he did say No Code-No Fix.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update:
Now that it got colder (occasional 0 C) I was hoping that a bit longer cranking time would be gone. But...

Sometimes (random and nothing in any pattern) our SFS would do it again. It would take 5-6 sec of cranking and engine fires up. After that engine runs smoothly, no loss of power, no weird smells from exhaust, fuel economy about the same, no warning lights on dashboard...If this longer cranking occurs next time start up is fine (short 1-2 sec to start).
Looked on other forums (audi, bmw, honda...) and some of them would mention similar issues but CEL warning light is on. From there it would point in which direction - fuel line low pressure (fuel pump, leaky injectors, fuel filter etc) OR evap codes (pcv, fuel tank cap, vapor purge valve etc) OR...
Even went to hook our SFS to more advanced obd II reader for any pending or old codes - NOTHING!
Frustrating - but one of my co-workers mentioned "...yeah its weird but starts every time, right?"
 

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Update:
Now that it got colder (occasional 0 C) I was hoping that a bit longer cranking time would be gone. But...

Sometimes (random and nothing in any pattern) our SFS would do it again. It would take 5-6 sec of cranking and engine fires up. After that engine runs smoothly, no loss of power, no weird smells from exhaust, fuel economy about the same, no warning lights on dashboard...If this longer cranking occurs next time start up is fine (short 1-2 sec to start).
Looked on other forums (audi, bmw, honda...) and some of them would mention similar issues but CEL warning light is on. From there it would point in which direction - fuel line low pressure (fuel pump, leaky injectors, fuel filter etc) OR evap codes (pcv, fuel tank cap, vapor purge valve etc) OR...
Even went to hook our SFS to more advanced obd II reader for any pending or old codes - NOTHING!
Frustrating - but one of my co-workers mentioned "...yeah its weird but starts every time, right?"
Had this with my 11 Sonata. Granted that was the 2.4l but same thing....long crank every once in a while and then engine ran with no issues. Did have 2 isolated cases where it clean a full crank cycle (was a prox key SE model) and failed to start.

Things to check
1 Battery - are you getting good voltage? Connections tight and free of any corrosion? Battery swollen or looking abnormal? If replacement and has caps, is liquid level sufficient? Hyundai oem batteries get fairly weak after a few years in cold weather.

2 Throttle Body - these GDI engines are carbon factories and seem to need the throttle body very clean. Ironically it's a maintenance item and most dealers will try to sell you an expensive cleaning. I found that a rag soaked in some FI cleaner or brake clean worked fine. This actually solve my issue on the Sonata. Tip...dont move the butterfly inside manually or you will get a CEL. It's a two person job have someone press the accelerator from inside to allow you to clean with sides.

3 Battery Body Ground - known weak point with 11 to 13 Sonatas and since it's in the same area on Santa Fe Sport (driver side fender) I'd give it a check. Right after I replaced my battery on that car I'd get failure to engage starter and the click. Turned out the ground wire was not making good contact. Remedy is to remove ground wire, sand contact patch down to bare metal, reattach, and spray with over with contact sealer. Did the same mod to Copper Top and never had issues.

Do get a failed remote start every once in a while. May try to adjust the crank time but button starts have never been an issue

Hope one of these helps.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Had this with my 11 Sonata. Granted that was the 2.4l but same thing....long crank every once in a while and then engine ran with no issues. Did have 2 isolated cases where it clean a full crank cycle (was a prox key SE model) and failed to start.

Things to check
1 Battery - are you getting good voltage? Connections tight and free of any corrosion? Battery swollen or looking abnormal? If replacement and has caps, is liquid level sufficient? Hyundai oem batteries get fairly weak after a few years in cold weather.

2 Throttle Body - these GDI engines are carbon factories and seem to need the throttle body very clean. Ironically it's a maintenance item and most dealers will try to sell you an expensive cleaning. I found that a rag soaked in some FI cleaner or brake clean worked fine. This actually solve my issue on the Sonata. Tip...dont move the butterfly inside manually or you will get a CEL. It's a two person job have someone press the accelerator from inside to allow you to clean with sides.

3 Battery Body Ground - known weak point with 11 to 13 Sonatas and since it's in the same area on Santa Fe Sport (driver side fender) I'd give it a check. Right after I replaced my battery on that car I'd get failure to engage starter and the click. Turned out the ground wire was not making good contact. Remedy is to remove ground wire, sand contact patch down to bare metal, reattach, and spray with over with contact sealer. Did the same mod to Copper Top and never had issues.

Do get a failed remote start every once in a while. May try to adjust the crank time but button starts have never been an issue

Hope one of these helps.

Thanks for some great info/tips.
Battery replaced in Oct 2018 with new Interstate battery. I was lucky to get almost 5 yrs on original Hyundai battery(according to a date installed/made sticker). I did test charging system with this new battery and it did check OK (charging rate, voltage, etc). All connections look OK to me. Although I will check on that ground cable to body spot you mentioned!

Throttle body cleaning is my next "target". On these SFS throttle body intake valve is moved by el.motor ( fly by wire) and it will get messed up if you try/force it to move (CEL will light up) There is TSB by Hyundai on how to clean throttle body and how to re-learn position of that valve so no CEL after cleaning ( search for 13-FL-002 from April 2013).

Cheers
 

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When I was a Honda tech in the late nineties we had hundreds of Hondas and Acuras with the complaint of intermittent no start.
99% of the time the repair was fuel pump, fuel pump relay, igniter, ignition switch, in this order.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
My car starts up EVERY time. Some times it takes 4, 5, 6 sec of cranking to start. Tried narrowing it down to summer higher temp outside
( vapour lock?) But that was not the case. No CEL or any other bad fuel pump symptoms ( loss of power, limping, higher fuel consumption, etc).
Any ideas on how to check for fuel pressure? Santa Fe does not have any kind of "port" for ordinary fuel pressure gauge. Is there a way to check fuel pressure via obd2 plug with a scanner (any suggestion on obd2 scanner model that does not cost a lot)?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update:
I was able to borrow friend's bluetooth obd2 reader (elm something) and pair it to my phone. Using Car Scanner app (free for Androids) poke through some read outs. No CEL codes, no stored or pending codes...(?!) Fuel rail pressure sensor reading was at idle 585,599,615 psi (in that range). Taping gas pedal this pressure goes higher...
After shutting car off pressure drops of to 580-590psi range but then it will start climbing slowly 694,699,760...950,990ps (?!) I waited a bit and pressure was still high (800-900psi).
My questions:
- Is it possible that these readings are not correct from this obd2 app ? Shouldn't they drop a bit and stay for 1-2 hrs?
-What regulates pressure AFTER car is off ? Gas tank press.regulator (one that sits on top of the tank, inside vehicle under carpet/back seat) bad?
I could not reproduce longer cranking times this morning while this obd2 reader was hooked up
 
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