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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi.

It appears my 2013 santa fe xl may be experiencing engine overheating issues.
Earlier today on our way back from the cottage I noticed the engine temp Guage went right to the extreme hot side then after a couple of seconds went back to just below the middle line (normal). It was doing this intermittantly then the last 100 km or so. It also never went to the red area gradually (went from just below middle to red in 3-4 seconds and the after a few seconds back to normal).

When I got home the fan continued to run 5-10 mins after turning off the car. Fan is fine so I know it isn't that.

The hoses are firm and hot when the car is running. The reservoire tank has coolant in it (high mark).

Here's what I find strange. When I got home (3+ hour drive) w/ high temps noticed as I described the above, the coolant was only warm (in both the reserve and also just below the radiator cap. I would have thought it would have been blistering hot (I checked 15 mins after stopping on the radiator and pretty well right away in the reservoire).

I do fear a head gasket because I know it's eating oil (has been for 1+ years). I have to add a litre every 1000kms or so.

I'm wondering if this is a pump issue though? Or thermostat?

The engine oil isn't "milky". It's mostly just dark in colour just like used oil (not whitish or greyish).

The reservoire is a bit dirty inside (darkish film on the sides). Had to clean it to be able to see the coolant level properly

Anyone have any thoughts?

(Update). Also if I let the engine run without the radiator cap on, I see a little bit of bubbling here and there (even after engine is hot). I don't see it bubbling in the overflow resevoire when I put the radiator cap back on.

(Update 2). Drove my daughter to school today, 15 mins there and 15 mins back (heat Guage was normal, never spiked). When I got back I felt the large rubber radiator hoses and they were very hot to the touch as was the coolant in the reservoire. Amazing a short drive its super hot (Guage normal) and yesterday driving over 200kms at very high speeds and the coolant is luke warm? (And Guage goes red)?
 

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Looks likely the water pump is shot or the thermostat stuck closed. Don’t like the colour of coolant and tank stain either. When was it last flushed through and antifreeze/anti corrosion fluid last done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks likely the water pump is shot or the thermostat stuck closed. Don’t like the colour of coolant and tank stain either. When was it last flushed through and antifreeze/anti corrosion fluid last done.
Thx. To be clear the Coolant colour is fairly normal. I was referring to the oil colour (engine oil). It not being milky or anything like that.

The cap is also very clean (inside area exposed to the radiator). No buildup there either. The resevoire just has some thin oily residue on the sides (inside).
 

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Hope for the best and simplest: thermostat.

If there's a head gasket leak it's a costly repair and simple replacement won't suffice. The cylinder head bolts are prone to striping block threads and inserts of some type must be installed. I've used Huhn inserts but they're expensive (i.e., overpriced) and in future will use HeliCoil 2.5D inserts. These are longer than usual inserts which is necessary for retention. Only genuine HeliCoil inserts work, the so-called heliCoil compatible ones I've had used finer external threads which is inadequate. My auto machine shop guy also related that use of TimeSerts didn't work out since they had failures for about 30% of those installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Ok. I brought in my car to the dealer.

I'm shocked at what little testing they did.

They said the following "We drove the car around and didn't see the needle move beyond normal range", despite me telling them in was very intermittant and I've only seen it after long distances (longer drives).

No pressure test, no exhaust fumes test, nothing.

I told them about the warm coolant after driving 3+ hours when the needle went to hot (in both the resevoire and in the radiator (didn't seem to phase them).

Nor did it when I told them if they ran the engine with the radiator cap open to see the intermittant bubbling...

They told me to next time capture a video of the needle moving to the red area, wow....

Not sure what else to do...

I don't want to get stuck 2 hours from home on the side of the highway with two young kids, an angry wife and a large dog having to call a tow truck. Honestly even if it is a head gasket I'd rather pay for that repair than get stuck far from home.

My thinking is still a defective thermostat (at least the main issue).

Looks like a relatively easy and inexpensive job (after draining the coolant). At least that way I can start with something and start troubleshooting with the most likely culprit.

Thoughts and opinions appreciated...
 

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I had a similar problem with my old truck many years ago. I was at the point where I was driving around with the heat on in the summer to keep the engine temp down.

I had it checked out at Firestone and they said, "let's try replacing the thermostat!". Then it was, "let's try replacing the water pump!". They didn't seem to want to diagnose anything, so I took it to the dealer and they figured out that I had a bad radiator. Once that got replaced I never had another problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had a similar problem with my old truck many years ago. I was at the point where I was driving around with the heat on in the summer to keep the engine temp down.

I had it checked out at Firestone and they said, "let's try replacing the thermostat!". Then it was, "let's try replacing the water pump!". They didn't seem to want to diagnose anything, so I took it to the dealer and they figured out that I had a bad radiator. Once that got replaced I never had another problem.
Yeah. I hear you.

I went right to the dealer to avoid that situation. But they don't appear to be too useful so far. I escalated it to the floor manager (service). Let's see if they are able to diagnose it further... hoping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah. I hear you.

I went right to the dealer to avoid that situation. But they don't appear to be too useful so far. I escalated it to the floor manager (service). Let's see if they are able to diagnose it further... hoping.
So it appears they had to escalate it to their technical assistance center(opinions on how to proceed). Still no word back after 48 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I noticed today that something is causing the coolant to overflow the reservoir tank (coolant goes out the small overflow nozel on the upper back side of the reservoir tank. The resevoir tanks sits on a felt liner on the car body. It was drenched in coolant (since it's felt like is absorbs it.

I noticed this after I filled the radiator with coolant and reservoir to max level the night before (when cold).

It shouldn't have overflowed.... in the radiator I noticed again I can add more fluid 250ml or so to fill it up (makes sense because it had to have gone somewhere (to the reservoir and then out the overflow nozel.

Still not sure the issue. Put on a new radiator cap and purchased a thermostat (haven't replaced the thermostat yet)
 

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Dont heat it too much, head twist and it done

Seen head bolts pull thread out of block.. went to take head off, and half the bolts was loose, and more snug toward other end,, put new gasket on, and run bolts down, and start with first pass of 27, end 2 bolt at cylinder just kept rotating, never thought about getting snug,, need short block now,, Hyundai gave in and replaced engine from parts
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok. More testing while the dealership comes up with an answer (or not).

I took out the thermostat. Inspected it. Looks ok... a bit worn IMO. More importantly I tested in hot water. Won't open until 190 degrees. Even then barely opens (1mm). Has to go above 200 degrees to open a few mm's more. I believe they are suppose to open at 180. Compared to a Motorad, it opens a lot less. I had one I was going to replace to test but decided against it - the Motorad looks too cheap IMO (and I didn't have the gasket/washer that's needed - doesn't look like the existing would work as it's sized differently).

Anyone have an opinion on my findings on the boiling water test?

I used a digital meat thermometer. I tested it multiple times at specific temperatures. I feel confident in regards to my temperature findings...

Anyone think I should replace it?
 

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Ok. More testing while the dealership comes up with an answer (or not).

I took out the thermostat. Inspected it. Looks ok... a bit worn IMO. More importantly I tested in hot water. Won't open until 190 degrees. Even then barely opens (1mm). Has to go above 200 degrees to open a few mm's more. I believe they are suppose to open at 180. Compared to a Motorad, it opens a lot less. I had one I was going to replace to test but decided against it - the Motorad looks too cheap IMO (and I didn't have the gasket/washer that's needed - doesn't look like the existing would work as it's sized differently).

Anyone have an opinion on my findings on the boiling water test?

I used a digital meat thermometer. I tested it multiple times at specific temperatures. I feel confident in regards to my temperature findings...

Anyone think I should replace it?
Replace it, cheap and easy fix if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Read the actual temperature through the OBDII port.
I have one of those bluetooth adapters I can connect to my phone. I think I can do that. But how do I know correlate to when it opens?

Or do you mean when the Guage goes to red? That doesn't really help since it's very intermittant and only stays in red for a few seconds. Hasn't done it all week. Appears to only happen after long drives
 

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I have one of both adapters with Bluetooth to my phone. I think I can do that. But how do I know correlate to when it opens?

Or do you mean when the Guage goes to red? That doesn't really help since it's very intermittant and only stays in red for a few seconds. Hasn't done it all week. Appears to only happen after long drives
A vehicle that overheats, the coolant won't get back to normal in a few seconds.
The actual temperature reading will prove or disprove that the coolant is truly at a high
temp, or the sender is at fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
A vehicle that overheats, the coolant won't get back to normal in a few seconds.
The actual temperature reading will prove or disprove that the coolant is truly at a high
temp, or the sender is at fault.
Thanks for the response. I agree it's so strange for it to bounce back and forth like that. Makes no sense. It isn't a steady increase either. It goes from normal to red in a matter of seconds then goes back to normal, after a few seconds.

I like your idea. I will give that a try.

My concern is if it's a faulty thermostat and it only allows coolant as the engine is heating up late in the process.

Or air pockets with hot air or something that can cause that behavior....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
A vehicle that overheats, the coolant won't get back to normal in a few seconds.
The actual temperature reading will prove or disprove that the coolant is truly at a high
temp, or the sender is at fault.
I drove to the cottage and back on the weekend with my phone pulling data from.the ECU. I topped off the coolant before going. 3 hours there and no issues. Temperature was between 199-220 once it heated up.

However, on the way back, 1 hour into the drive I saw the needle move again and the ECU was reporting the increase in temperature. Mostly 230-240 got it moving towards red. So I believe it indeed is the coolant getting hot.

I stopped the car, waited 15 minutes, took off the radiator cap and noticed I couldn't see any coolant. I was able to add 500ml-1litre or so. I could see the overflow was well above max (and the coolant was very cool when I dipped my finger in the overflow).

In addition I did the cabin heater test. It was not working or at best working randomly (when I attempted to run the heater when I noticed the heater gauge going above 230). It was blowing cool air when the engine was getting very hot.

So after adding the coolant (topping it off when clearly it could take more), the car ran fine. Temperature range was 180-220. Hot cabin air was working.

I do not believe I have a leak. I've ran the car and looked under the car for coolant. I don't see any.

So where is the coolant going? What I did notice is that something is pushing the coolant out the overflow (through the overflow nozel located high in the overflow tank. It isn't dripping out onto the floor because there is a felt like padding against the wall of the car and it is absorbing the fluid and I assume the heat burns/dries it by the time one can see it. If I press the fel against the side of the car it is drenched with coolant. I also place a rag in between the tank overflow nozzle and the wall of the car and it too came drenched (note I inspected the tank for a crack, no crack and the rag was high up against the overflow nozzle, so it's the nozzle).

So what is causing the coolant out the overflow tank nozzle?? Then reducing coolant level in the radiator?

Is it a stuck or damaged thermostat? Stopping the normal flow of coolant and high pressure/heat areas? Guess I'll find out tomorrow when the part comes in...
 
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