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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 Santa Fe XL 3.3L V6 GDI DOHC 24-valve.
The shop said the A/C discharge hose was leaking and should be replaced. If that is the case, why is the A/C still working fine?
 

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Guess the question is why would the shop be looking at the A/C if everything were operating properly?
If it does show signs of a leak, then the A/C cooling should dwindle in time. Make certain it is the hose and not the compressor or seal.
Just keep in mind that when the cooling decreases, if it does, have it repaired before the refrigerant is completely gone.
Reason being is that the SUV utilizes a VDC that runs continuously, even when the switch is off, and if no refrigerant, no oil circulates
to lubricate the compressor and then it would have the propensity to seize. If it does, the pulley will shear from the compressor but you'd still
be able to drive the vehicle.
 

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Isn't the "discharge hose" the pipe that discharges the condensate from the cooling process on to your garage floor or your drive resulting in that little puddle that people think is a coolant leak? It is supposed to leak as it has a hole at the end. BUT flippancies aside, that condensate can be acidic so if there is a leak that is discharging condensate on to engine parts or bodywork then it could, concievably, damage said parts. It wont affect the working of the AC because that pipe is meant to discharge the condensate buildup but it might damage parts if it is discharging on to them.
 

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Isn't the "discharge hose" the pipe that discharges the condensate from the cooling process on to your garage floor or your drive resulting in that little puddle that people think is a coolant leak? It is supposed to leak as it has a hole at the end. BUT flippancies aside, that condensate can be acidic so if there is a leak that is discharging condensate on to engine parts or bodywork then it could, concievably, damage said parts. It wont affect the working of the AC because that pipe is meant to discharge the condensate buildup but it might damage parts if it is discharging on to them.

No, the A/C discharge hose is the hose that carries the pressurized refrigerant from the high-pressure side to the low side
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Guess the question is why would the shop be looking at the A/C if everything were operating properly?
If it does show signs of a leak, then the A/C cooling should dwindle in time. Make certain it is the hose and not the compressor or seal.
Just keep in mind that when the cooling decreases, if it does, have it repaired before the refrigerant is completely gone.
Reason being is that the SUV utilizes a VDC that runs continuously, even when the switch is off, and if no refrigerant, no oil circulates
to lubricate the compressor and then it would have the propensity to seize. If it does, the pulley will shear from the compressor but you'd still
be able to drive the vehicle.
Thanks for that. There is no sign of the A/C function dwindling. I will definitely keep in mind to service it as soon as there are any signs of failure. What is VDC acronym?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Isn't the "discharge hose" the pipe that discharges the condensate from the cooling process on to your garage floor or your drive resulting in that little puddle that people think is a coolant leak? It is supposed to leak as it has a hole at the end. BUT flippancies aside, that condensate can be acidic so if there is a leak that is discharging condensate on to engine parts or bodywork then it could, concievably, damage said parts. It wont affect the working of the AC because that pipe is meant to discharge the condensate buildup but it might damage parts if it is discharging on to them.
Thanks for the info on the perils of the drain hose. Another thing that can happen is the drain hose gets clogged which can cause moisture backup into the vehicle etc..
 

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Thanks for that. There is no sign of the A/C function dwindling. I will definitely keep in mind to service it as soon as there are any signs of failure. What is VDC acronym?
The vehicle is equipped with a VDC, variable displacement compressor, and unlike the previous compressors that have been used for years, this compressor utilizes NO magnetic/electrical clutch that engages the compressor when cooling is needed. Technically it should work well, in that although the compressor is always running, internals turning, when maximum cooling isn't needed, e.g. highway speeds, the compressor internals, to make it simple, slow down. The electronic control valve at the back of the compressor sends signals to the internal plate to increase or decrease the piston displacement, great idea, but that valve is a known trouble part. At 209,000 miles, I'm presently installing the third valve, say presently because this past Saturday, after sitting in a drive through, cooling temp dropped and didn't return until driving for about 5 miles, so ordered a new valve.

Everyone just keep in mind, when cooling compromised, this valve can be changed and a new compressor is not needed.
Many shops want to install a new compressor, total cost maybe $600+, stealership $1000+, valve replacement <$200.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The vehicle is equipped with a VDC, variable displacement compressor, and unlike the previous compressors that have been used for years, this compressor utilizes NO magnetic/electrical clutch that engages the compressor when cooling is needed. Technically it should work well, in that although the compressor is always running, internals turning, when maximum cooling isn't needed, e.g. highway speeds, the compressor internals, to make it simple, slow down. The electronic control valve at the back of the compressor sends signals to the internal plate to increase or decrease the piston displacement, great idea, but that valve is a known trouble part. At 209,000 miles, I'm presently installing the third valve, say presently because this past Saturday, after sitting in a drive through, cooling temp dropped and didn't return until driving for about 5 miles, so ordered a new valve.

Everyone just keep in mind, when cooling compromised, this valve can be changed and a new compressor is not needed.
Many shops want to install a new compressor, total cost maybe $600+, stealership $1000+, valve replacement <$200.
Thanks Turbonut, for that EXCELLENT info on tbe Variable Displacement Compressor! VDC
That is invaluable. I will pass on all of that knowledge to my customer.
 

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they probably saw the dye in the refrigerant on the hose.
had to change that hose on my 2014. the a/c did not work this spring when i turned it on. cost me 30 dollars plus oil and r134a.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
they probably saw the dye in the refrigerant on the hose.
had to change that hose on my 2014. the a/c did not work this spring when i turned it on. cost me 30 dollars plus oil and r134a.
Good to know, thanks. We'll just wait til it quits I think... then move on it. Makes cents to me
 

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they probably saw the dye in the refrigerant on the hose.
had to change that hose on my 2014. the a/c did not work this spring when i turned it on. cost me 30 dollars plus oil and r134a.
Why would there be any dye in the system as the OP stated there was no problem with the cooling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Why would there be any dye in the system as the OP stated there was no problem with the cooling?
I can't answer for him but maybe someone put dye in it during a recharge and left it in there for future reference. Is that doable?
... and that is correct, this unit is cooling nicely but the shop told them the hose should be replaced... it doesn't make percect sense to fix it if it aint broke. Maybe the guy saw the condensation drain hose and mistook it as the discharge hose; it doesn't add up.
 
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