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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0t AWD with 186k miles (mostly highway). Last year I started having issues with acceleration and jerking and ended up stalled. The sputtering and acceleration symptoms pointed to a bad fuel pump and the engine code pointed to a misfire in the first cylinder. When checking the plug where the misfire was, the contact area was shattered and found a hairline crack in the cylinder. The dealer had the engine replaced under an internal defect warranty and replaced the long block. When picking up the car from the dealer, it ran ok but still had a tugging issue (similar to what I felt months before the engine went last year) that happened when letting off the gas around 20-35 mph and also had issues filling with gas with pointed to some type of evap issue. I returned to the dealer to check even thought the engine light didn’t come on and they had recommended getting the purge valve/canister replaced. The engine light finally came on sure enough the code was related to the purge valve. I had that replaced and it drove a little better for a day and then the light came on again. This time the code was related to the canister and canister vent valve. I replaced both and the evap lights have stayed off and gas filling seems to be fine but I am still having an issue where the car’s engine braking is more pronounced around speeds 35 mph and below. This seemed to start before I had engine problems last year and am concerned it will lead to something larger. I recently replaced the low pressure fuel pump and it helped with acceleration and the tugging is not as prominent but still there. I understand that even though the engine is new that the rest of the car still has 186k miles on it so many parts could potentially be going bad but I am lost. The car was always well kept and is in great condition and paid off so I’m trying to give it a few more years especially after the engine replacement. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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I had the same tugging issue with my '88 Accord when a front ball joint boot broke and it lost all grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I had the same tugging issue with my '88 Accord when a front ball joint boot broke and it lost all grease.
I misspoke and this is happening to me when I take my foot off the gas. Did it only happen to you around the 20-35 mph range? I’m not sure if tugging is the right term but it defitnely doesn’t feel smooth like when taking foot off gas at higher speeds. I don’t notice it then. Definitely some type of resistance at the lower speed that’s noticeable.
 

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Not really sure what you are after. By resistance do you mean engine braking? Hyundai SUVs in my experience do seem to have more engine braking (do not coast as far-you can feel the vehicle slowing) when you back off of the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I am having a hard time explaining but what you’re calling engine braking may be correct. It isn’t a smooth slow down or engine braking when at low speeds. I would consider this normal as you said but I haven’t experienced it before so I’m hoping it’s something that can be addressed. It is due for a trans flush so maybe that will help smooth out the braking a little.
 

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Tugging to me means a pull to one side or the other, like torque steer.
 

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If it was not there before then something may have changed. All three of my Hundais...2007 Entourage, 2015 SFS, and 2017 long all have more engine braking at low speeds than those vehicles from other manufacturers. It is not there 100% of the time, but it is definitely something I notice because I drive GM vehicles all day and they coast much better. Thus to me some engine braking is normal, but in your case it would appear that something has changed.

BTW folks...Do not try to squeeze in every last drop of fuel when filling the tank By doing so it is possible to force fuel into the charcoal canister ruining it.
 

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If you are experiencing excessive engine braking it should be reflected in the rpms staying higher than normal, and might be an issue with transmission itself or transmission programming. I wouldn't think there is any correlation with bad fuel pump and fuel evap system . Also if for some reason the AWD system was constantly engaged there would be additional drag but you would likely have noticed that at all speeds. You have the manual shifting so have you tried keeping it in a higher gear to see the result ? Many vehicles with small displacement engines are programmed to downshift when coasting at low speeds to enhance throttle response.
 
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