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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! My wife's 2013 Hyundai Elantra Limited began displaying some electrical issues a few weeks back (battery wouldn't hold charge, electronics would go out while idling, etc.). She had the car for about 4 years so my first notion was to replace the battery. Replaced the battery, issues persisted. My next idea was the alternator/serpentine belt. I went to my local auto salvage lot and picked up an alternator out of another Elantra which was rear-ended and totaled for about $35. I had ordered an alternator out of a 2013 1.8L engine but instead the lot gave me an alternator out of a 2017 2.0L. I only noticed the mishap after I had installed the new alternator and looked at the receipt b/c the alternator looked near identical to the one I took out of the car. The alternator mated perfectly and the car runs and operates normally aside from the battery light coming on after start-up but goes away once the car reaches approx. 3k RPM. I've checked the voltage of the car after test-driving multiple times and it always reads approx 12.7V.

Are there any long term issues you all can think of? Or can I wait to put a 2013 alternator in the car when I take some time off in the next few months?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: After a few days of no issues, occasionally while driving the car will briefly "jerk" and all electronics will briefly turn off and turn back on. The "jerk" feels almost like hitting a bump in the road. Going to swing by the salvage lot tomorrow and grab the correct alternator.
 

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Going to swing by the salvage lot tomorrow and grab the correct alternator.
It sounds like your having the same issue with two different alternators. That kinda suggests the alternator isn't where the problem lies, so fitting yet another one isn't likely to change anything.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It sounds like your having the same issue with two different alternators. That kinda suggests the alternator isn't where the problem lies, so fitting yet another one isn't likely to change anything.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Sorry if I misspoke, but the alternator I put in the car is from a 2017 2.0L instead of a 2013 1.8L Elantra. The car will charge, but the new alternator introduced different problems listed in my second post.
 

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My guess is that the battery cables going to the battery might be bad. I saw a video on YOU TUBE recently that had the same issue you are having now. Turns out that the cables had a bad crimp (loose connection) at the battery end. they replaced the cables and all was good again. Good luck. Let us know how you made out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My guess is that the battery cables going to the battery might be bad.
Huh, I never thought to look at the battery cables. I had presumed the 2.0L alternator was pushing more/less power than the ECU wanted and all the electronics were going haywire.
 

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Did you bench test your original alternator? You can take it to Autozone for a free test but those guys can easily mess it up too. Should be putting out about 14.5 volts. Get the right alternator first like you planned and always check cables whenever you swap alternators.

It’s really easy to rebuild these alternators. Usually it’s the rectifier(diodes) that dies. Or the voltage regulator. Brushes are easily replaced along with whichever component failed. Unless you have bearing noise, these components are all easily accessed. Diode test the rectifier and ohms test the other if all is good then it’s probably the voltage regulator. Testing the voltage regulator requires expensive equipment. But if all other component tested ok then it’s the voltage regulator. eBay sells them coming from reliable electrical shops. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: Installed the third alternator into the car and as of Day Zero, no problems. Car starts and sounds great and had a much better connection between the alternator and the battery while the engine is running (.6v to now 2.0v). Additionally, turns out the model and voltage of the alternator did not actually differ between the 2013 and 2017 model years (see picture below). My current hypothesis is that the second alternator I bought was a dud. The terminal connections were a little loose, so I will pick up some battery shims to hopefully tighten that connection.

Hopefully this will be the end of things and my wife will have her car back! Thanks for all the help!

449475
 
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