Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some backstory..

Around 6 5 months ago my car went into limp mode with the check engine light flashing. I limped it home and to the local mechanic. They replaced my catalytic converter.

3 months later my car's check engine light came on with P0420. It eventually turned off. I took it to the mechanic and they claimed the code was not there. (I bought a cheap OBD2 reader from walmart, it was stored even though the MIL was off) 1 week ago my car tried to go into limp mode again, this time it flashed for half a second and it shut off, no limp mode. I brought the car back and demanded them look at again and that I had a scan tool that showed it was stored and never turned off.

They took the cat off and replaced it. When I came to pick it up they said it was so burnt up it was like it was blown out. They said they couldn't figure out what happened and recommended it to be taken to a Hyundai dealer. I had them diag it and they claimed it just needed a tune up and liquid flushes with an alignment. (this was on Wednesday) Yesterday I noticed my car kept trying to stall on 3rd - 5th gear. I had noticed the issue before had but didnt make the gear shift connection until then. Today I was driving to work, same stall issues when shifting. Except this time it tried to stall out when I was at the light and go into limp mode again (it was at 2nd gear at 15 mph as I was breaking and at 0 when it was shaking badly). It didn't go into it and I made it to work.
This last time there was no check engine light or code stored. 3 I/M were ready, 8 were not.

So basically my issues are hesitation while shifting on 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. Rough idle all the time, several times has been so bad it tries to go into limp mode. There use to be a p0420 code, now no codes. Even this time when it almost went into it this morning.


Does anybody have any idea what could be causing my car to run so strangely while driving and to go into limp mode (or try)?

This was taken a while back. The I/M for some reason will go between N/A and INC. I do not understand what is happening to my car.


It also might be worth mentioning my car is very high mileage at 167,000 miles. Also might be worth mentioning that in that time period I didn't start my car for a couple days while it was cold (33F) and the car practically jumped up in the air. This set off my knock sensor. I turned it off after it sat for a couple minutes and started it up a couple more times. It never did it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
Have you ever run Techron injector cleaner through it? The service schedule (in the Owners Manual) says we're suppose to do that every 6-12 months.[1] (I think I read that Techron is what Hyundai dealerships use. But, I think others use other products. I don't know if it matters.).

In another thread someone said the cold-start high-idle (for a minute or two) is the injectors spraying sideways to clean the valves. I've been wondering if immediately throwing the car into gear and driving might interfere with that, lead to valve deposits.

Also, you said: "didn't start my car for a couple days while it was cold (33F) and the car practically jumped up in the air." What does that means specifically? High RPM? How high?

[1] EDIT: I was looking at the Owners Manual more closely. The "normal" schedule says (miles/months) 7,500/12; 15,000/24; 22,500/36 (and so on). If you drove 15k miles in a year, you'd use Techron twice a year. (I drive about 2.5k miles, so I should use it once a year.).

However, at the very beginning of the normal schedule it says:

"If TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is not available, one bottle of additive is recommended."
I don't know if I've been using top-tier. I assume I haven't. It sounds like I'm supposed to add Techron every fillup. I bet nobody does that. It sounds excessive. But, you never know. It could be the cause of problems. Especially people who drive more miles (and don't use top-tier gas).
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's set for the induction service next Friday. I may have to do it sooner, depends on if I get my w2 fast enough.

Practically jumped in the air, as in it was so shaking and bouncing so bad it felt like it was jumping in the air at the time. I can't remember what the RPM were or anything, I was terrified my engine was about to be done for lol.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,036 Posts
If the throttle body has not been cleaned start there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SS1992

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the throttle body has not been cleaned start there.
I saw this suggested on the internet as a generic guesstimation. Is the MAF sensor located inside, or is this a vehicle without a MAF sensor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
the 1.6 Gamma engine is a MAP only design. The MAP is installed immediately downstream of the throttle body, along with the Intake Air Temperature sensor. There is no Mass Airflow Sensor. Somewhere on this forum there is a safe link to the Hyundai factory Service Manual for the RB Accent. I got the manual years ago, thanks to the good work of poster az2008. The old link went bad because the original filehosting service (dev-host? ) was taken over by another less benign company. But the Factory Service Manual was re-hosted somewhere else, and a search for it should turn up the newer, good link.
Can't bring the newer link (rapidshare) up for some reason. Here's poster Arod's dropbox link(s) for the manual, or a version of it.
It's a little confusing, but you can find a download button to the right of "Sign On" in the upper right corner of the page for the particular manual you want. Then extract the zipfile to your system, enter the folder and click the file, "index.html"
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thank you az2008 for the manuals. A little confusing, but very helpful!

This is going to be a looong comment. (Questions at the bottom for those who want to skip to the point)

So last night I went ahead and sprayed off the throttle body and added more coolant. It has helped a little. When I first started it a few times it was having a hard time starting but it's starting right up now.

The car is still shakey especially while driving (most notable after 50 mph) I believe my motor mount is out. I will be posting a photo of the top motor mount to get some opinions on whether it is needing to be replaced or not. If so I'll probably do the transmission mount as well. Maybe those things along with the alignment will fix the shaking issue. Does anyone know if its just the motor mount on the passenger side and the transmission mount, or are there more mounts? I've had mechanics tell me there's 3 for the motor and 2 for the transmission however I'm getting conflicting information (or lack thereof)

As far as the issue that appears to be the transmission slipping I realized I haven't changed the transmission fluid. I plan on getting under there and changing that fluid with some fresh fluid.

When I had gone to Hyundai they recommended some services:

Brake Flush
Coolant flush
Fuel induction service
Engine air filter
Brake job (brakes and resurface rotors)
Tune-up 4 Cyl
Alignment

I'm going to flush the brakes myself and obviously replace the engine air filter. I'm also going to tune up the car myself because from what I can tell it seems easy enough.

Since there doesn't appear to be any codes coming forward this is what I plan to do:

Change mounts
Change PCV
Change air filter
Change fuel filter

For the tune-up I had already had the ignition coils replaced, I think I just need to do the spark plugs.

What I'm going to have the dealer do:

Coolant flush
Brakes
Alignment
Fuel induction service (?)

I'm not sure about the fuel induction service. My Accent has never had it done before so maybe I need it? Has anyone here ever had it done and noticed any results or is it a money grab?


Questions I have:


1. Can yall think of anything else I can do for a tune-up other than change spark plugs?
2. How many mounts for the engine/transmission?
3. What is the recommended ft.lb torque for the mounts?
4. Anyone got a good drill or impact wrench so I can do these jobs faster? Preferably w/ adjustable ft-lb torque
5. Is a fuel induction worth the cost? (never had it done before)
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In another thread someone said the cold-start high-idle (for a minute or two) is the injectors spraying sideways to clean the valves. I've been wondering if immediately throwing the car into gear and driving might interfere with that, lead to valve deposits.
I don't know if I've been using top-tier. I assume I haven't. It sounds like I'm supposed to add Techron every fillup. I bet nobody does that. It sounds excessive. But, you never know. It could be the cause of problems. Especially people who drive more miles (and don't use top-tier gas).
I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I have done research on these engines.

Our cars are GDI as almost everyone knows. However many people don't realize that this:



Can turn into this:



I highly doubt the injectors are doing anything to clean them off. Not long ago they had to close the valves and blast them with walnut shells to get the carbon off. I believe now they use the "fuel induction service" to basically do the same thing just with chemicals so that they don't have to take apart the engine. Toyota addressed this issue by placing injectors within the sidewalls of the cylinder and have it spray the valves at intervals to keep them cleaned off.

As far as adding Techron I can see how it could help the injectors, but not the valves being covered in tons of carbon. I treat my injectors with whatever cleaner that I can find that is the cheapest. It seems to work just fine for me. More than likely Hyundai has a partnership with Chevron since Chevron owns "Techron" as a proprietary product.

As far as you not using Top Tier gas? From Top Tier's website:

TOP TIER™ is a fuel performance standard written by auto manufacturers to assist in keeping the engine cleaner, thus resulting in improved customer experience. Since auto companies are not able to dictate fuel regulations or fuel standards, the TOP TIER™ logo serves as an indication of a station where the fuel marketer is supportive and offers the vehicle manufacturers' request for higher standards in fuel. The ultimate goal of the program is satisfaction of our common customer - the vehicle owner.

Basically, if you've used any of these gas stations you should be good. If not if you have used any fuel treatment/detergent once every 4,000 miles or once every oil change it's the same regardless of what brand you decide to use.

List of stations/brands:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
Basically, if you've used any of these gas stations you should be good. If not: if you have used any fuel treatment/detergent once every 4,000 miles or once every oil change it's the same regardless of what brand you decide to use.
Can you clarify that bolded part? (The Accent Owners Manual says it should be used every fillup when not using top-tier gas. What you said sounds more reasonable to me. But, where did you get that?).

Regarding the cold-start cleaning of the valves, see this post by @19jacobob93 : "As for the intake valves, I feel it helps greatly the fact that these engines do a double spray onto the back of the intake valves during cold start (the high revving period when you first start to heat the catalyst). Although only brief, fuel additives will actually hit the back of the valves at this time." Maybe he could comment on where he learned of this.
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Can you clarify that bolded part? (The Accent Owners Manual says it should be used every fillup when not using top-tier gas. What you said sounds more reasonable to me. But, where did you get that?).

Regarding the cold-start cleaning of the valves, see this post by @19jacobob93 : "As for the intake valves, I feel it helps greatly the fact that these engines do a double spray onto the back of the intake valves during cold start (the high revving period when you first start to heat the catalyst). Although only brief, fuel additives will actually hit the back of the valves at this time." Maybe he could comment on where he learned of this.
The detergents are essentially the same thing you see at the gas station with the small bottles of oil and other car things like that. I use STP most of the time, or whatever is cheaper. It doesn't matter if you use techron or STP or anything else. As long as you put something in the tank it's good.

They recommend the "top tier gas" so that you don't have to ever worry about it. Most gas stations have a detergent in it. If you use Texaco, Chevron, BP or any of the other ones in the list you shouldn't have to ever worry about treating the gas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
There are three mounts: the top engine mount you see on the passenger side when you open the hood, the lower mount you see in the center if you jack the car up in front, and the transmission mount that you see only after you remove the battery tray. The lower mount is also called the "roll rod" in the Hyundai manual and may be called a "Torque strut" on auto parts websites. It actually bolts to the transmission, but the engine is supported by it too.

I recently replaced all three of these mounts in my car. The biggest improvement came from replacing the top engine mount. In my car, that top mount was definitely shot out. But I couldn't see anything about it to indicate it needed replacement. The car shook badly enough going down the road at 45mph that my phone sometimes fell out of the holder. I thought it must be out of round tires in the rear (up and down vibration, no steering wheel shaking) But no, it was the top engine mount. I jacked the engine up a little from under the oil pan to check the mount for cracks, odd movements, noise, and I couldn't tell anything was wrong with it. But after replacing it, all the shaking went away. Unlike the other two mounts the top engine mount actually has hydraulic oil trapped inside it to dampen vibrations. The lower mount and trans mount are solid rubber bushings. Even though you couldn't see any fluid leaks from it, once I had the top engine mount out some oily fluid came out of the top ,which is definitely not supposed to happen. I'm not sorry I changed the other two, but the most dramatic improvement was the top engine mount. Fortunately it's also easiest to do.

Changing the mounts is covered in the manual under Engine Mechanical section. I think it doesn't have its own topic heading, but you see how everything bolts together in the step by step description of "engine removal". So you have to wade through it to get to the procedure for unbolting the engine from its top mount and lower torque strut. (transmission mounts are covered in the main Transmission section) All the torque specs are listed in tables at the beginning of Engine Mechanical section, but that can be a little confusing since some parts have similar names and you have to be sure which is which. Fortunately with the engine mounts there's a diagram with an overhead view of the chassis in which all the mounting points and their torque specs are labeled with arrows. They give metric values as well as english, and the english lb-ft numbers are always the last number. It's definitely doable with hand tools - a breaker bar will be good to have, or you can slip a length of pipe over your socket wrench. A torque wrench is needed.

This youtube clip was very helpful to me: HOW TO REPLACE ENGINE MOUNT ON HYUNDAI ELANTRA RIGHT PASSENGER

It's exactly the same as the Accent. Part looks the same, procedure is the same. It's important to have the manual so you can know for sure torque values, but was also great to be able to see someone actually do it for the confidence building. You need to support the engine as stably as you can while still being able to jack it up and down. I had a hydraulic jack under the oil pan like they show in this video, and a scissors jack on some stacked concrete pavers and wood under the transmission as a fail safe.

The lower torque strut mount and the transmission mount were both much harder for me than the top engine mount. I would mark them both as low priority items.

I would really want to find someone soon who could tell me why my car is running rough, going into limp mode, and has burned out two catalytic converters - one in only 3 months (!) if I'm reading your post right. If that problem isn't figured out and substantially corrected, none of the rest of it is going to matter much.
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There are three mounts: the top engine mount you see on the passenger side when you open the hood, the lower mount you see in the center if you jack the car up in front, and the transmission mount that you see only after you remove the battery tray. The lower mount is also called the "roll rod" in the Hyundai manual and may be called a "Torque strut" on auto parts websites. It actually bolts to the transmission, but the engine is supported by it too.

I recently replaced all three of these mounts in my car. The biggest improvement came from replacing the top engine mount. In my car, that top mount was definitely shot out. But I couldn't see anything about it to indicate it needed replacement. The car shook badly enough going down the road at 45mph that my phone sometimes fell out of the holder. I thought it must be out of round tires in the rear (up and down vibration, no steering wheel shaking) But no, it was the top engine mount. I jacked the engine up a little from under the oil pan to check the mount for cracks, odd movements, noise, and I couldn't tell anything was wrong with it. But after replacing it, all the shaking went away. Unlike the other two mounts the top engine mount actually has hydraulic oil trapped inside it to dampen vibrations. The lower mount and trans mount are solid rubber bushings. Even though you couldn't see any fluid leaks from it, once I had the top engine mount out some oily fluid came out of the top ,which is definitely not supposed to happen. I'm not sorry I changed the other two, but the most dramatic improvement was the top engine mount. Fortunately it's also easiest to do.

Changing the mounts is covered in the manual under Engine Mechanical section. I think it doesn't have its own topic heading, but you see how everything bolts together in the step by step description of "engine removal". So you have to wade through it to get to the procedure for unbolting the engine from its top mount and lower torque strut. (transmission mounts are covered in the main Transmission section) All the torque specs are listed in tables at the beginning of Engine Mechanical section, but that can be a little confusing since some parts have similar names and you have to be sure which is which. Fortunately with the engine mounts there's a diagram with an overhead view of the chassis in which all the mounting points and their torque specs are labeled with arrows. They give metric values as well as english, and the english lb-ft numbers are always the last number. It's definitely doable with hand tools - a breaker bar will be good to have, or you can slip a length of pipe over your socket wrench. A torque wrench is needed.

This youtube clip was very helpful to me: HOW TO REPLACE ENGINE MOUNT ON HYUNDAI ELANTRA RIGHT PASSENGER

It's exactly the same as the Accent. Part looks the same, procedure is the same. It's important to have the manual so you can know for sure torque values, but was also great to be able to see someone actually do it for the confidence building. You need to support the engine as stably as you can while still being able to jack it up and down. I had a hydraulic jack under the oil pan like they show in this video, and a scissors jack on some stacked concrete pavers and wood under the transmission as a fail safe.

The lower torque strut mount and the transmission mount were both much harder for me than the top engine mount. I would mark them both as low priority items.

I would really want to find someone soon who could tell me why my car is running rough, going into limp mode, and has burned out two catalytic converters - one in only 3 months (!) if I'm reading your post right. If that problem isn't figured out and substantially corrected, none of the rest of it is going to matter much.
I failed to mention that they did some kind of computer update on my car. Also it seems the mechanic who replaced my cat also replaced the O2 sensor "off the books"

The general manager at the place was grandpa's coffee drinking buddy for like 10 years at the local cafe until my grandpa passed away. So he probably just did me a solid.

After the update everything appears to be fine with the cat. Obviously it's hard to diagnose by just looking but no light anymore.

I was driving my car to work and did some "testing". What I discovered was my transmission seems to be slipping? When I brake my car and it goes down to 30 mph it seems sluggish for lack of a better term. From 20-15 mph the car does a weird 1 second shake and jumps from 1000 RPM to about 12 or 1300 RPM.

One it goes out of 2nd into 1st gear around 10 mph it goes to 1000 RPM. At idle it's staying at approximately 600-700 RPM without the AC on. W/ AC on its at 800-900 RPM.

This is the issue I've been complaining on is the above issue. I'm thinking the transmission may need to be rebuilt or replaced. Maybe it's a failing torque converter.

As far as the shaking goes I'm having those same issues, especially at higher speeds. I checked the passenger mount and there's no need to ask, it's definitely bad. It's all but caved in and I can move the engine slightly front to back.

All the other things I'm doing is mainly me trying to do the maintenance myself and fix whatever I can think of so that whoever I bring this car to will be able to focus on the issue rather than try to upsell me on things I don't really need and try to price gouge me.
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I also got an ELM-327 Bluetooth scanner w/ an app like torque+ maybe I can see some live data and better keep an eye on the cat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
I was driving my car to work and did some "testing". What I discovered was my transmission seems to be slipping? When I brake my car and it goes down to 30 mph it seems sluggish for lack of a better term. From 20-15 mph the car does a weird 1 second shake and jumps from 1000 RPM to about 12 or 1300 RPM.
To some extent I think the Accent does that. I think it's part of its fuel-economy (optimization). It seems worse with the "eco" mode turned on, if I recall. You've had your car for a long time. I assume this is definitely something that's different than in the past (you're not being hypersensitive to it now that you've had a different problem?).

Back when I installed a car alarm, I installed a kill switch that disabled the fuel pump (the one under the backseat, inside the tank). I have no idea why anyone would be so intent to steal an Accent. You'd think an alarm and it's own ignition disabling would be more than enough. But, I wanted a failsafe, super-secret way to disable the car.

Anyway, that turned out to be a bad idea. More than once I forgot to turn the hidden switch back on. The car drove fine for a mile or so, then started cutting out. I immediately recognized my mistake, turned on the switch. But, the real problem was that the car continued to stutter, have no power for another 20-30 minutes. I thought I tore something up inside the car.

The impression I got was that the Accent's fuel-economy optimization seems to factor in the amount of fuel it has been recently using. I.e., if you've been driving very soft-footed and then drive a little more assertively, it's like the "drive by wire" system tones down your assertiveness. So, in my case, I'd been driving with no fuel (maybe the high-pressure pump at the engine was pulling enough to make it work for awhile). So, it took some very starved driving to get back to a "new normal" (in the computer's mind). I don't know what else it could have been except air in the fuel line, taking a while to get out. But, if that were it, you'd think the instructions for replacing a fuel pump would say something about how to get out of this air-locked condition. To me, it felt more like the computer was trying to continue the "economy" it had been measuring while I drove with the fuel pump off. It painted itself into a corner, and took some time to paint itself out of that corner.

What you describe (stuttering, low power) sounds a lot like what I experienced after driving without a fuel pump for awhile.

Maybe a fuel pressure problem. But, it seems like that would throw an error code (considering how much the system monitors itself. If I recall, I didn't get a check engine light while driving without a fuel pump, nor during the lengthy stuttering recovery after I turned it back on.). Maybe disconnect the battery and step on the brake to bleed off any residual energy in the system. I think I read that will reset your computer?
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
To some extent I think the Accent does that. I think it's part of its fuel-economy (optimization). It seems worse with the "eco" mode turned on, if I recall. You've had your car for a long time. I assume this is definitely something that's different than in the past (you're not being hypersensitive to it now that you've had a different problem?).

Back when I installed a car alarm, I installed a kill switch that disabled the fuel pump (the one under the backseat, inside the tank). I have no idea why anyone would be so intent to steal an Accent. You'd think an alarm and it's own ignition disabling would be more than enough. But, I wanted a failsafe, super-secret way to disable the car.

Anyway, that turned out to be a bad idea. More than once I forgot to turn the hidden switch back on. The car drove fine for a mile or so, then started cutting out. I immediately recognized my mistake, turned on the switch. But, the real problem was that the car continued to stutter, have no power for another 20-30 minutes. I thought I tore something up inside the car.

The impression I got was that the Accent's fuel-economy optimization seems to factor in the amount of fuel it has been recently using. I.e., if you've been driving very soft-footed and then drive a little more assertively, it's like the "drive by wire" system tones down your assertiveness. So, in my case, I'd been driving with no fuel (maybe the high-pressure pump at the engine was pulling enough to make it work for awhile). So, it took some very starved driving to get back to a "new normal" (in the computer's mind). I don't know what else it could have been except air in the fuel line, taking a while to get out. But, if that were it, you'd think the instructions for replacing a fuel pump would say something about how to get out of this air-locked condition. To me, it felt more like the computer was trying to continue the "economy" it had been measuring while I drove with the fuel pump off. It painted itself into a corner, and took some time to paint itself out of that corner.

What you describe (stuttering, low power) sounds a lot like what I experienced after driving without a fuel pump for awhile.

Maybe a fuel pressure problem. But, it seems like that would throw an error code (considering how much the system monitors itself. If I recall, I didn't get a check engine light while driving without a fuel pump, nor during the lengthy stuttering recovery after I turned it back on.). Maybe disconnect the battery and step on the brake to bleed off any residual energy in the system. I think I read that will reset your computer?
Perhaps that's something I should try. I wonder if something in the fuel system could be cutting out but not bad enough to trip the computer up?



Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
To some extent I think the Accent does that. I think it's part of its fuel-economy (optimization). It seems worse with the "eco" mode turned on, if I recall. You've had your car for a long time. I assume this is definitely something that's different than in the past (you're not being hypersensitive to it now that you've had a different problem?).

Back when I installed a car alarm, I installed a kill switch that disabled the fuel pump (the one under the backseat, inside the tank). I have no idea why anyone would be so intent to steal an Accent. You'd think an alarm and it's own ignition disabling would be more than enough. But, I wanted a failsafe, super-secret way to disable the car.

Anyway, that turned out to be a bad idea. More than once I forgot to turn the hidden switch back on. The car drove fine for a mile or so, then started cutting out. I immediately recognized my mistake, turned on the switch. But, the real problem was that the car continued to stutter, have no power for another 20-30 minutes. I thought I tore something up inside the car.

The impression I got was that the Accent's fuel-economy optimization seems to factor in the amount of fuel it has been recently using. I.e., if you've been driving very soft-footed and then drive a little more assertively, it's like the "drive by wire" system tones down your assertiveness. So, in my case, I'd been driving with no fuel (maybe the high-pressure pump at the engine was pulling enough to make it work for awhile). So, it took some very starved driving to get back to a "new normal" (in the computer's mind). I don't know what else it could have been except air in the fuel line, taking a while to get out. But, if that were it, you'd think the instructions for replacing a fuel pump would say something about how to get out of this air-locked condition. To me, it felt more like the computer was trying to continue the "economy" it had been measuring while I drove with the fuel pump off. It painted itself into a corner, and took some time to paint itself out of that corner.

What you describe (stuttering, low power) sounds a lot like what I experienced after driving without a fuel pump for awhile.

Maybe a fuel pressure problem. But, it seems like that would throw an error code (considering how much the system monitors itself. If I recall, I didn't get a check engine light while driving without a fuel pump, nor during the lengthy stuttering recovery after I turned it back on.). Maybe disconnect the battery and step on the brake to bleed off any residual energy in the system. I think I read that will reset your computer?
From what I understand about the eco mode is that the computer essentially "nerfs" the engine so to speak. It's supposed to improve gas mileage for you. I use to use it until I realised I already drove like it's in active eco anyway, so it wasn't really improving my gas mileage.

By the way, I made a second post showing live data from a bluetooth OBD2 scanner I bought from Amazon. Check it out if you haven't already.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
az2008, getting back to the injectors we were talking about before. This car is the elantra, but apparently they're very similar to the Accent. This video shows these guys changing the cylinder head gasket. They had pulled the fuel rail and I only saw 4 injectors. Meaning it basically wouldn't be possible for them to spin or do anything since they wouldn't be GDI. Essentially the tops of the valves never get cleaned or touched at all.


Toyota solved this by installing "port injectors" above the valves as I mentioned previously.



Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
Meaning it basically wouldn't be possible for them to spin or do anything since they wouldn't be GDI.
I don't understand what you're saying. Could you link to the relevant part of the video (it's an hour long. You'd save everyone who finds your post a lot of time.).
 

·
Registered
2013 Hyundai Accent GS automatic
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I don't understand what you're saying. Could you link to the relevant part of the video (it's an hour long. You'd save everyone who finds your post a lot of time.).
Aw nuts. Sorry I guess I got wrapped up in the video I didn't even realize it was so long..

It starts at 37:32. He says to be careful because the fuel is pressurized. You'll then see him pull the fuel line out with the four injectors attached at 38:05

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top