[twr7cx2]

I have a recently purchased 2013 Hyundai iLoad with the 2.5L CRDi motor and automatic transmission. The vehicle has just gone over 120,000km. While the manual indicates that the automatic transmission only requires maintenance servicing if the vehicle is driver under severe usage conditions, even though ours isn't I would prefer to carry this out.

I've done some searching and reading and was hoping someone in the know could please confirm that this is correct:

Oil - 10L of Castrol Transmax Multivehicle < hyperlink to products website removed as need to be member for at least 7 days to post a link > or Nulon Full Synthetic Multi Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid < hyperlink to products website removed as need to be member for at least 7 days to post a link > - any preference for either flavour?

Filter and pan gasket kit available from Repco Auto Parts?

Drain plug on bottom of sump pan and overflow level behind the shifter linkages on the passenger side - see picture attached.

Fill plug on the drivers side behind the bell housing near the exhaust down pipe - see picture attached.


Is the process then just:
1. Drain plug out and catch the oil.
2. Drop the sump.
3. Change the filter element and replace pan gasket.
4. Refit sump and drain plug.
5. Undo overflow and fill plugs.
6. Fill with ATF until overflowing.
7. Start engine and continue to fill until overflowing.
8. Cycle through gears, fill again until overflowing.
9. Test drive, check level and fill further if needed - is the level checked by removing the overflow plug again?

 

[camper]

The viscosity of trans fluid maybe slightly different, so I prefer OEM trans fluid, or check catalog to make sure the aftermarket fluid fits your car perfectly. You don't need to start the engine to check trans oil level. When adding fluid, I prefer topping up from the top. Just remove a sensor from top if no dipstick, add the same amount as in owner's manual. The fluid should be changed every 30k-50k miles. You don't have to replace filter, that's a lot of work

 

[twr7cx2]

check catalog to make sure the aftermarket fluid fits your car perfectly.

The two I mentioned are what those companies list in the Lube Guide for this vehicle.

 

[twr7cx2]

For anyone in the future interested, the part number for the AT sump pan gasket and filter is Repco GFS580. Retail price as of September 2018 is $64.99 but can get down to $44.28 if you speak nicely to them.

Require a 10mm socket to undo the sump pan and filter.

Torque specs are:
Oil pan - 7.5 Nm
Oil strainer - 10 Nm

 

[twr7cx2]

For refilling you will need:
A 15/16" open end spanner for undoing the overflow/level plug. I found that 23mm was too small and 24mm is bigger than 15/16, which is around 23.81mm I think, so is a higher fit.
8mm alan key socket for the filler plug.

Torque specs:
Filler plug - 24-56 Nm
Overflow plug - 6-9 Nm

and sump plug is 30-40 Nm in one document I have and 20 Nm in the other. I just went with 30 Nm in the middle.

The filter is just a mesh sort of strainer, not a proper filter like I'm used to on ZF transmissions I've previously worked on. Not sure I'd bother changing it knowing what I know now. Just drop the oil and refill.

 

[twr7cx2]

Torque specs are:
Oil pan - 7.5 Nm

For anyone interested, I'd personally consider tighten up the oil pan bolts more than this now.
I've just been under the vehicle checking it over and noticed that there was oil over the transmission. On checking the oil pan bolts a few were fairly loose and all the rest easily turned tighter with little resistance on 1/4" drive ratchet held at the head. I've gone around and tightened all by hand, cleaned up the oil mess over the box's pan and hopefully this will stop the leaking. I think maybe the cork gasket compresses or something after a while?