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2013 Elantra Sedan AC question.

2K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  coltmack 
#1 ·
The AC on my 2013 Elantra sedan often takes a couple of blocks after starting the engine to cool down. Up to that point it blows hot air. Once it does cool down, it gets nice and cold. I've had the ac checked and the last place said the freon was at the correct level. When asked then why it took a few blocks to cool down, the tech acted like he wasn't sure and said that probably the ac compressor was going out. Hmm.. Another place I asked claimed to know Hyundai ac, said that this was intended.

I live in Las Vegas, and we're heading towards our "triple-digit" period, and I'm back to using the ac and the delay in cool is kind of annoying.

What say the forum?

Thanks
Dave
 
#2 ·
It probably has, but not absolutely certain if the compressor is a VDC, variable displacement compressor, but if it is, the control valve is going south.
To check, look at the pulley on the compressor, engine running, a/c off, the center of the pulley will be turning, and
there will be no wiring going to the pulley area.
 
#5 ·
Not sure which it is, since the compressor is buried under the alternator, I've tried to use a flashlight to look down on the compressor, but not sure if the wires shown are/are not there. Hyundai did a bangup job hiding the compressor. Any other way to tell?
 
#6 ·
My daughters 2014 AC starts to cool down a few seconds after turning it on even at idle. Which shop did you go to? Also live in Vegas. I suspect maybe a little low in refrigerant. Put a meat thermometer in your front vent and see how cold it gets after driving a while. You should be in the low 40s. Maybe 40-46 deg is a good charge. If its only showing 50s or even 60s its low.
 
#7 ·
My issues is it often takes 3-4 blocks of driving for the ac to blow cold. When it does get cold it gets so cold that if I have my hand at the "10 o'clock" position on the steering wheel, it feels like I put my hand in the freezer from the output of the left ac duct right behind the wheel with the blower on high. I can easily believe its in the 40s. Firestone Auto Care examined the system and said my refrigerant was fine. Apparently the question is: Is the fact that it takes a while for the ac to cool BY DESIGN or not? I've been told by others that the delay in cooling is by design and also been told that I have some valve going out.

My ac had a nice vacation over the fall/winter, but now it needs to step up and work 100%. Looking at the predicted high temp today in Las Vegas is 97F, and it won't be but a few days till thats a three-digit temperature.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I don't think any AC is designed to blow hot air at anytime its turned on. That is just BS.

You are probably on the lower end of good charge thats why it takes a while to start cooling down. Meaning low in charge. If all they did was hook up the AC manifold gauge, they are guessing the acutal amount inside the system. Its probably still within the acceptable or border line good charge. If your compressor is failing, your first step is try to do the cheaper route first and make sure you have the correct charge. Your car is still young for the compressor to fail. Unless you alway have it running 365 days a year. Some folks leave their HVAC on set at 70 no matter what season.
 
#9 ·
I am having a similar issue with my daughters 2013. We are experiencing hot air at idle and low speeds. Works like a champ when the engine is cool and idling or above 40mph. New fan assembly was put on by Hyundai dealer to fix the problem but it is still doing this. Could the HVAC pressure transducer possibly being faulty cause this? Also, why is the cooling fan a <pusher>?? This makes no sense to me. I argue that this only makes AC at idle more difficult. Any insight??
 
#10 ·
Did some tests on the hvac pressure sensor today and when the signal reaches 3.5v or so the compressor turns off. I was using a test light with a digital voltmeter on it and when I connected with this the AC would come back on and run as it should until I disconnected. Repeated this several times to verify. Signal wire from transducer was reading 3.5v - 3.6v and Low Pressure was reading 60psi, I reduced to 55psi (3.0v) and now it is working like it should(not as cold at idle as I would like but at least the compressor is running and not blowing 100+ degree air through the vents. Will do more testing tomorrow and pull pressure/temp/voltage reading for this.
 
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