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Discussion Starter #1
Just put gas in and the light came on and stayed on. Checked the gas cap. Took it off put it back on. Light still on. Keyless start acted like it was not going to start and kept trying to turn over. Did this twice. Then started fine. 69000 mi....should I go to dealer or different mechanic to check it? Dealer $145 to diagnose codes. Also there is a update needed on the emissions would this have anything to do with it? Gas was almost empty when I filled it; could that be it? What should I do? Worried about driving it...
 

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If you're in the US (assuming you are), go to AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts... etc and get codes read (if there are any) and go from there. Could you any number of things happening that could cause this so the first step would be to find out what you can from the car. You can always punch those back into the forums and see if anyone has had the same issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I went to Pep Boys and parked the car for 10 minutes. When I started it light was off. Code came back P0340. Car started fine, no more light on. Originally this morning the car was almost out of gas. Drove 1 block and put gas and drove back home. Went inside for 5 minutes, came out and car almost would start, engine cranking over and over had to turn off ignition and start again. Then light came on. Drove 2 places around town. Car started up normally, then light went off at Pep Boys.
Could this have been because of almost out of gas? Just had battery replaced 2 months ago and have a notice to update the emissions system (computer update?). What do you think?
 

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Nope; you can be completely out of gas and not get codes. This may be related to all the P0010/P0011 codes that were reported very recently: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-20...shaft-position-actuator-circuit-new-post.html. Do you have any drive-ability issues like sluggish acceleration, idle or just starting issues? Circuit sensor malfunction could also be loss of connection to the sensor itself. You may not be getting it when the vehicle is warm after heat-soak but connection breaks again on the sensor when cold. Test harness to make sure you have both 12v and around 5v ref voltage (along with ground). Not sure if this one is ground commanded by the PCM. The P0340 could definitely cause extended crank/no start issues so you may end up just replacing the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The only issue I had was a few days ago it acted as if it did not want to start right away. This has happened maybe 4 times in a year. Today it did not want to crank over and just kept cranking until I turned it off and tried again. Then it started fine and fine again after the code went off.
Is it safe to drive? Don't know what to do with it on a Friday afternoon to get it looked at; dealer is booked.
 

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I'm pretty sure a 2013 Elantra has a timing chain. Could be your tensioners but you'd most likely also have driveability issues (like misfires, knock... etc) and noise at idle if that was the case. Without a scan tool to show what's going on at the time of "crank, no start", testing the camshaft sensor, fuel pressure/delivery it would be very hard to pinpoint the exact cause. Do you find that it's less of a problem when the car is warm/has been driven recently than from a cold start? Have you had your battery tested recently to see if the cells are starting to drop? I replaced an original battery that came with the car that was 3.5 years old after one time having a crank, no start and getting it tested. Auto parts stores will run that test for you for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The battery was replaced 3 months ago. It just wouldn't start one day. The battery was supposed to be new when I got the car a year ago. I have not had any driveability issues with the car at all. I am going to drive it and see what happens and if light comes on since I cannot get any assistance at dealer today. I'm also going to mention to body shop guy and see what he recommends for right now until I can get it in somewhere. Thank you for your help. I am also concerned about ECM recall notice since I see threads that the AC doesn't work after its updated. Let me know what you know about that. I am in USA-California.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just had oil changed 3 weeks ago. Will check it right now though. Have never had issues with this car before other than battery and none with previous Elantra but prior one was brand new; this was purchased used but nothing like this in service history.
 

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Hmm. Problem started just after fill up? Is this a station you have used regularly? I am reminded of a Diamond Shamrock station a very long time ago that got a load of fuel with A LOT of water in it. Seems the previous load hauled by the delivery truck had been diesel and the tank was steamed out afterward. But not drained completely. One of the many affected cars came into the little repair shop/auto parts/gas stations where I worked in college. "Mechanic" kept wanting to swap out electronic ignition modules without really checking things out. In this case, the owner had just filled up and we drained 15 gallons of water from the tank. There were dead cars all over town!

Obviously you have mostly fuel in your car or it wouldn't start. But if the issue began just after filling, and the tank was near empty, fuel contamination may be the issue. Worth looking at. Would cause mis-fires, bad idle, hard to start, etc.
 

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If you ran the tank really low it's possible some gunk got sucked into the filter and clogged it.
 
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