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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I'm new around here but figured what better place to ask than a Hyundai specific forum? So a couple months ago, my 2013 Elantra with 71k miles on it randomly would decide to not start (much rarer symptom) or just struggle to start (most common symptom), kind of stumble and then pick back up as if nothing had happened. Bare in mind this only seems to happen weeks apart although there's been once or twice where it happened one day after another. It essentially has no pattern to it, I'll unsuspectingly get in the car and then it'll do it so I haven't been able to catch it on film.

I took it to a mechanic who is pretty dang good, he was able to replicate the problem, and gathered some theories about it. Sadly there wasn't enough time to get the whole story on the issue but he told me it could only be two things. Because his scanner indicated that there was some kind of delay for the starter to engage when it did happen, he thinks it could either be a relay, which could have something to do with the ecm, or the starter itself.

So I guess I wanted to invite people who've had similar experiences, who have theories, or who can provide some kind of guidance as to a diagnostic procedure which I would be open to trying. I've fiddle with cars before, just not so much with these newer ones. I do have plenty of technical knowledge apart from cars so I'm definitely not expecting a solid answer when no one's actually looked at it, but just a general nudge in the right direction would be pretty awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump? I know There's a couple of cases of no start Elantras but they seem to vary from no cranking, to no gear display, none of which is necessarily a 1:1 match... Yet anyway. I may just get a test light and see what I can find out about the starting circuit, the dang thing seemed to be under control but today it stumble started In a parking lot. I got the all data diy for my car hopefully that helps, already had the start relay changed (figured what the heck it's $20) obviously that wasn't the culprit though
 

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I have had issues with my 2001 Elantra.
Intermittent no crank, no start
It turned out to be corrosion on the battery posts and cable terminals.
Cleaned them and chased down the battery ground. Cleaned that too.
After that I didn't have that no start.
This may or may not be your issue.

If your issue is a crank, no start then you might want to start off with cleaning the throttle.
Sometimes it can cause stumbling starts
 

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Carlofabyss,
My 2012 Elantra has had the exact symptoms for a few months now. No codes are stored when I put on my code reader. The battery is 1 year old and it tests very good. I cleaned the terminals and made sure the cable clamps were tight. I replaced the batteries in our key fobs and also replaced the range inhibitor switch because others on the forum have pointed to this as a possible cause of intermittent failure to start as the car may not recognize the shifter is in park. This did not solve the problem. What I can say is now that it is colder outside the car has started perfectly for at least a month. So I believe it may be heat related in my case. Now I'm thinking it could be a failing starter, bad start button, or bad brake position sensor, but I am not going to throw more parts at it for now. I called my Hyundai dealer for an appointment but they said that unless they could duplicate the problem they would not be able to diagnose and repair. So far it has not left us stranded because it will eventually start. I will wait for the problem to reappear and become more reproducible so it can be diagnosed and repaired by me or at the dealer. Meanwhile, I will be very interested to follow this thread and see what others report.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks man I'll give that a try these are all great to do for maintenance either way, although I have a funny feeling this is more of an electrical issue considering it seems to act up more when warm but hey better to start simple
I have had issues with my 2001 Elantra.
Intermittent no crank, no start
It turned out to be corrosion on the battery posts and cable terminals.
Cleaned them and chased down the battery ground. Cleaned that too.
After that I didn't have that no start.
This may or may not be your issue.

If your issue is a crank, no start then you might want to start off with cleaning the throttle.
Sometimes it can cause stumbling starts
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I think you're right on the money there actually, mine also seems to do it more when it's warm. I plan on replacing my starter soon since that was my mechanics primary sucpicion apart from a "relay" being bad in the ecm itself. He sadly couldn't figure it out since it doesn't act up enough to have a pattern although he did get it to act up. He did tell me to bring it in if it got more frequent or if I wanted to leave it over night when I don't need it for work to have a closer look at the electrical side of things.

Let's just hope our problem is just a starter though since that would suck bad. I'll make sure to update here if I can make heads or tails of it, but definitely follow this thread if this sounds very similar to you. I might try to check some wiring myself this weekend too and see there's anything touching anything hot since that seems to be a common reason for intermittent type stuff.

The range inhibitor thing didn't seem to match my situation too well since the most notorious symptom seemed to be the gear selector showing blank on the dash display, I do wish it we're just that haha.

Carlofabyss,
My 2012 Elantra has had the exact symptoms for a few months now. No codes are stored when I put on my code reader. The battery is 1 year old and it tests very good. I cleaned the terminals and made sure the cable clamps were tight. I replaced the batteries in our key fobs and also replaced the range inhibitor switch because others on the forum have pointed to this as a possible cause of intermittent failure to start as the car may not recognize the shifter is in park. This did not solve the problem. What I can say is now that it is colder outside the car has started perfectly for at least a month. So I believe it may be heat related in my case. Now I'm thinking it could be a failing starter, bad start button, or bad brake position sensor, but I am not going to throw more parts at it for now. I called my Hyundai dealer for an appointment but they said that unless they could duplicate the problem they would not be able to diagnose and repair. So far it has not left us stranded because it will eventually start. I will wait for the problem to reappear and become more reproducible so it can be diagnosed and repaired by me or at the dealer. Meanwhile, I will be very interested to follow this thread and see what others report.
 

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You have the occasional "crank, no start" and "excessive crank, then start"? I used to get that on my 2013. There's reports on forums that the fuel pump has a bad ground, during assembly they simply bolted the ground to a painted surface. I cleaned up the area behind the ground, and added a second ground for good measure (the latter is probably not necessary). I did this two years ago, and haven't had a single issue starting since. This ground is behind the carpet by the rear seat.
442634
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds about right, You may be on to something, you would just pull the seat out like you would to access the pump, except unbolt the ground, sand down the paint to the metal, clean the connection, perhaps to get a better ground? Or is there a less ghetto way of going about it? XD Im sure there's plenty on the forum about it I'll give that a look too

You have the occasional "crank, no start" and "excessive crank, then start"? I used to get that on my 2013. There's reports on forums that the fuel pump has a bad ground, during assembly they simply bolted the ground to a painted surface. I cleaned up the area behind the ground, and added a second ground for good measure (the latter is probably not necessary). I did this two years ago, and haven't had a single issue starting since. This ground is behind the carpet by the rear seat.
View attachment 442634
 

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That's exactly what I did. Remove the rear seat, pull carpet out of the way, make a better connection. It's the only step I've done to remedy the crank no start issue (figured I'd try the free solution first). Hasn't done it once in 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow I mean it could a different issue than mine but symptomatically it does sound about right. This could actually be something to try before I throw a starter at it, I appreciate the insight. Only time will tell for me, it seems to do it every couple of weeks all the way to over a month sometimes. I put a starter relay on it recently, it didn't do it for weeks and right when I was like hmm maybe that was it, I get in, crank, and it does it lol.

That's exactly what I did. Remove the rear seat, pull carpet out of the way, make a better connection. It's the only step I've done to remedy the crank no start issue (figured I'd try the free solution first). Hasn't done it once in 2 years.
 

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My answer is based on a traditional physical key in ignition and not the PushButton start setup. I am not sure which your car has.

Take a careful listen for the spin-up of the fuel tank mounted fuel pump when you move key to ON position but not cranking. You should hear a 1 to 2 second "buzz" as the pump pressures up the fuel rail. If your fuel pump is failing or the ground for that pump is not solid, you will not hear the pump spin-up and therefore your car will not start or will try to start and sputter because of the low fuel rail pressure.

I fought a "crank but no start" intermittent on a Ford for about a year until i learned this trick to listen for the fuel pump spin-up. Every time I had the problem, the fuel pump would not energize during the key movement to ON. It was heat related as it would always eventually start if i waited 15 minutes to several hours. Eventually I had the fuel pump replaced and never had another problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks bdahl385, I learned this trick from ChrisFix on Youtube actually, It's hard not to notice anymore now that I know about it :ROFLMAO:. Not a bad idea to listen for it when it does act up but the bad part about this problem is I have no idea when it's going to happen. I'll try to keep my ears on it the next couple weeks to be prepared for when it does happen, I'm probably going to try what FlyTheLine says though since that does seem like a tangible cause for it too and doesn't seem incredibly difficult.

My Elantra when it does act up, also seems to start up right away after I've turned the vehicle off, taken the key out and then attempted to start it up again, although there has been once or twice where it did it twice in a row. And yes it is a traditional key in the ignition, none of that push start stuff, I made it a priority to avoid that since they're expensive to fix when they do go bad.

My answer is based on a traditional physical key in ignition and not the PushButton start setup. I am not sure which your car has.

Take a careful listen for the spin-up of the fuel tank mounted fuel pump when you move key to ON position but not cranking. You should hear a 1 to 2 second "buzz" as the pump pressures up the fuel rail. If your fuel pump is failing or the ground for that pump is not solid, you will not hear the pump spin-up and therefore your car will not start or will try to start and sputter because of the low fuel rail pressure.

I fought a "crank but no start" intermittent on a Ford for about a year until i learned this trick to listen for the fuel pump spin-up. Every time I had the problem, the fuel pump would not energize during the key movement to ON. It was heat related as it would always eventually start if i waited 15 minutes to several hours. Eventually I had the fuel pump replaced and never had another problem.
 

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Bump? I know There's a couple of cases of no start Elantras but they seem to vary from no cranking, to no gear display, none of which is necessarily a 1:1 match... Yet anyway. I may just get a test light and see what I can find out about the starting circuit, the dang thing seemed to be under control but today it stumble started In a parking lot. I got the all data diy for my car hopefully that helps, already had the start relay changed (figured what the heck it's $20) obviously that wasn't the culprit though
Can I replace 2013 elantra crankshaft sensor on my own? does it need any
calibration
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey there sounds like a topic for another thread don't ya think lol? I've seen it done on loads of YouTube videos with the same car, totally doable, you'll probably have to disconnect the battery, jack the car up, find the thing, get it unplugged, get the new one one back into the retainer clip that's in there, and you're done. The all data diagrams for it are kind of meh so a YouTube vid is your best bet.

Can I replace 2013 elantra crankshaft sensor on my own? does it need any
calibration
 

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Although I have never changed one myself, i believe on the Elantra the sensor is held in place with a single bolt. Take the bolt out and the sensor is pulled out from the engine mounting location. There should be an oil sealing o-ring on the sensor body. The cable will terminate into a mating plug that you also disengage the locking tab and simply unmate the 2 wire connector. Reinstall a new Crank sensor, lube up the electrical connector with some dielectric grease and you should be done. There is no re-calibration needed.

Sensor should look something like this: Elantra Crank Sensor on Amazon

I suggest you do a search on YouTube for "Elantra crank sensor" to look at some good video's showing location of the part and also common symptoms you should have in your car if the crank sensor is failing. The most obvious one is that your RPM gauge will read zero while cranking and then after a long crank, the car will start but the RPM's will still read zero. The crank sensor is what your ECM uses to get engine RPM among other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bought some sand paper, and a toothbrush today, I'm probably going to town with that ground connected to the fuel pump like FlyTheLine suggested, as well as cleaning up the terminals even though they look pretty clean, I'll report back if something does (or doesn't) happen, I wish I could get it to consistently act up so I can report whether it's a fix or not immediately but sadly that's not the case. I also missed buying some dialelectric grease, last minute research tonight before I dig in
 

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I had this issue myself however it included the "no gear" on the dash and I was unable to put my 2016 Elantra (70K miles) into gear. This is more of a PSA as well so others won't fall victim to what I unfortunately did. So I'll rewind to what I now know was when the problematic symptoms started and I apologize but it is long winded for a reason:

I live in Florida and unfortunately torrential downpours can happen in the blink of an eye riding down any of the main highways. My incident specifically happened when I was taking my son home riding down Interstate 4 with nothing but blue skies above me, but 5 miles up was a wall off rain. I believe it was late "Winter" so that meant grounds for windows down and sunroof wide open. When I approached that wall of rain I realized it was traveling towards me so I tried to hurry and shut the sunroof. Unfortunately the "no pinch" activated and reopened the sunroof so I kept tapping the close button to manually shut the sunroof as far as I could without being able to push down the deflector for full closure while driving and luckily didn't get too wet. I didn't think anything of it and when I got to a my destination which was dry with no sign of rain I proceeded to reprogram the auto-open/auto-close sunroof switch and everything continued on as normal. I wish I took that as more of a warning to what came later down the road. Fast forward about 1 year down the road this issue happened maybe 2x more in that year both of which reprogramming the switch worked fine. Well one day I had left my car at the end of the driveway overnight out of sheer laziness and when I went to start it it cranked no problem however it was idling extremely rough between 500rpm-death stall but not quite there. The RPM gauge on the cluster was acting like something from the "Twilight Zone"...just made me realize I miss that show...anyways the gear selected "P" at the time had disappeared and just about every warning light possible came on and stayed on. I turned the car off right away and attempted a restart which still cranked, but has the exact same result. I then tried once more figuring it would be 3rd times a charm No start....couldn't get it to start from then on for the next 2 days. We had some horrible rainstorms so I waited it out and then went out to try again once everything stopped and welcomed an extremely wet driver seat which I immediately looked up and saw dripping from the driver visor vanity light. Instantly thought whoaaaa that sunroof again?? Turns out the left drain was clogged pretty bad and that was causing the no pinch/reopen issue. After purchasing an inhibitor switch brand new OEM from Hyundai and switching that out for apparently no reason (which I still have if anyone needs one I'll be glad to sell and ship it if necessary) I was still having no gear on the dash and unable to get out of park without pressing the shift lock.

The resolution was pretty disturbing and I wish I would've known all of this a lot sooner....

So the left side sunroof drain comes out the driver fender of course but not before passing the firewall behind the battery which unfortunately is home the the MD's ECU/ECM Apparently the whole year the drain was clogged (which I cleared with an air hose from a fish tank snaked down from the top and heavily electrical taped to a compressor blowgun at approximately 35-40psi)...all the extra water was dumping on the left (driver's side) half of the 2 ECU/ECM connectors. This causes mass corrosion of the pins and completely disintegrated 3 pins inckuding: Camshaft position sensor ground, Throttle position sensor bank 2 (I believe), and the holy Grail Main relay/fuel pump....

Those 3 pins amount countless connectors inside the harness itself with corrosion not allowing a solid connection had me dead in the water.

Hyundai refused to fix my ECU and said I needed a new one. So not thinking I got one off eBay to which they advised they "need the donor vehicle" which then changed to "need the donor vehicle key fobs" which then changed to "Were not reprogramming a used ECU because the VIN# is burned into it and won't take a new VIN#"....now I could be wrong and they may very well be correct however in my experience the VIN# is just written on the EEPROM and easily could be reflashed with the GDS programming tool but I digress.

They wanted $828 for the ECU (My dealer stupidly has a wholesale online page as well in which they had my ECU for $610)....so I ordered it and had it shipped into my dealership free shipping only took maybe 2-3 days from ATL, Georgia due to a holiday weekend. I put the ECU in myself and refused to allow them to touch the car just yet. I couldn't get a start out of the car so I had them look and they told me I needed a new harness....yes....an entire engine harness which they said would be $2000 alone which I couldn't understand why they wouldn't just pull the connectors and put new ECU connectors but Hyundai apparently is all about just replacing things instead of logically dealing with the problem. (Found that $2000 harness on their site for $1200)...however this time they weren't getting me because initially the ECU, Harness, 14 hours labor for the harness and 1 hour programming was quoted at $4200. After I handled the ECU they quoted me for the harness, and 14 hours labor plus programming the ECU at $4400 ($200+ for what I have no clue...maybe just refusal to work after someone else or not wanting to deal with my car who knows.) Towed the car to a local guy within walking distance of my house that I knew his quality of work was top notch from past experience and friends experience....

I found 2 ECU connectors someone chopped off a 2013 and pulled all the connectors myself and gave him the shells to swap. He had his guy swap all 175+?? Wires/connectors/resoldered and out the door with a running vehicle for $200 labor.

And that is the longest winded PSA/rant/possibly related to the OP I've ever seen.

Oh and it's my 1st post on the forum . I'll attach photos of the carnage once I find them on my Google drive.

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