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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok trying to find the reason why the rear and passenger windows don't work. I was checking the fuses and relays, then I found a mysterious relay behind the fuse box that there is no documentation anywhere. That is the only relay that I need to test, but it is very difficult to reach. Does anyone know what it is for?

Relay # 95240-3x100
DC 12V



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Does anyone know what it is for?
Sorry, I don't know what that relay is for off the top of my head. But I do know that it is not for the power windows, because the power window relay is inside the fusebox.

Did you use a voltmeter to check the fuses? If not that would be a sensible next step. Check to see if power is being supplied to the power window fuses. If not then you probably have a faulty relay, which is an internal part of the fusebox. But if there is 12V being supplied to the fuses you know the relay is good.

trying to find the reason why the rear and passenger windows don't work.
Are you sure you don't just have the passenger door windows locked? Have you checked the window lock switch on the driver's door??



Don't pull fuses. Just switch the ignition on and probe them with your voltmeter...
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry, I don't know what that relay is for off the top of my head. But I do know that it is not for the power windows, because the power window relay is inside the fusebox.

Did you use a voltmeter to check the fuses? If not that would be a sensible next step. Check to see if power is being supplied to the power window fuses. If not then you probably have a faulty relay, which is an internal part of the fusebox. But if there is 12V being supplied to the fuses you know the relay is good.


Are you sure you don't just have the passenger door windows locked? Have you checked the window lock switch on the driver's door??



Don't pull fuses. Just switch the ignition on and probe them with your voltmeter...
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If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
AUTO SPARK Thanks for your reply !

Ok from the main switch (driver's side) I can raise and lower all windows without problems. but directly from the switch of the other 3 windows I can only lower them but not raise them. With the ignition switch on I tested all the fuses with a light voltmeter. and with the exception of 2 of them (10A) (7.5A) all the others showed signs of voltage. In the photo I am marking the 2 fuses that did not show any voltage. I took out those 2 fuses and found that they have continuity, they also have no signs that they are blown, at the end I replaced them but the same thing keeps happening.

Also I found out a relay that gets hot
I tried it with a 9v battery and sometimes it clicked and it gave me readings and other times it didn't. I ordered a direct replacement last night to see what happens.

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There shouldn't be power on those two fuses. The START fuse will only get power when the key is turned to the start position, and the HTD MIRR fuse will only have power when the rear defogger is switched on.

From what your saying about the window fault, my guess is the driver's door switch is faulty. You would need to check the power supply and grounds on one of the passenger door switches to confirm.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There shouldn't be power on those two fuses. The START fuse will only get power when the key is turned to the start position, and the HTD MIRR fuse will only have power when the rear defogger is switched on.

From what your saying about the window fault, my guess is the driver's door switch is faulty. You would need to check the power supply and grounds on one of the passenger door switches to confirm.

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Thanks man for the suggestion! These days I will check how to test the power supply and grounds of the passenger door switches correctly. I think the power window switch is bad due to marks that I found when disassembling it.

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If you have the driver's switch disassembled you can easily check it using a voltmeter. Terminal 16 is a 12V power supply and terminal 1 & 2 are the grounds for the front passenger window switch. Connect the switch to the harness and switch the ignition on. Now touch your red meter probe to terminal 16 on the circuit board (BL+) and touch the black probe to terminals 1 & 2. You should get a reading of 12V between 16 & 1, and between 16 & 2. To test the rear right circuit measure the voltage between 16 & 10 and 16 & 11. The rear left window will be 16 & 14 and 16 & 15. You should get a reading of 12V each time.

Of course this is testing the circuit when it's switched off and not under any load. It would be better if you could have a helper hold the switch on the passenger door in the up position while your taking the voltage measurements, to load the circuit.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you have the driver's switch disassembled you can easily check it using a voltmeter. Terminal 16 is a 12V power supply and terminal 1 & 2 are the grounds for the front passenger window switch. Connect the switch to the harness and switch the ignition on. Now touch your red meter probe to terminal 16 on the circuit board (BL+) and touch the black probe to terminals 1 & 2. You should get a reading of 12V between 16 & 1, and between 16 & 2. To test the rear right circuit measure the voltage between 16 & 10 and 16 & 11. The rear left window will be 16 & 14 and 16 & 15. You should get a reading of 12V each time.

Of course this is testing the circuit when it's switched off and not under any load. It would be better if you could have a helper hold the switch on the passenger door in the up position while your taking the voltage measurements, to load the circuit.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Perfect ! i'll post the results soon

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE ! 10/29/21

Ok I installed a brand new Master switch and it turned out, that the problem got worse. At the beginning of this post I explained that i was able, to lower the passenger and the rear windows from they own swich, but not to raise thems. (from the master switch I could lower / raise all the windows without any problem.) but now the passenger and 2 rear windows neither go down nor go up if I use their own switch. I don't think it's the motors since from the master switch I can control all 4 windows perfectly. What else should I check and how?


* Before installing the new master switch, while testing the old one with the voltmeter, the HTD MIRR fuse (7.5) blew. also when touching the terminals the door locks used to open and close by itself

all suggestions are welcome
Thank you
 
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