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When I start my 2012 Sonata, especially if the car was parked for a day, the A/C blows warm as I start driving. After varying amounts of time and speed of car, the A/C kicks in and blows very cold - and is relatively fine from then on. The coolant level is fine, the radiator fan spins and filters are clean. Any chance this could be insufficient voltage to the radiator fan? It *seems* like air starts going cold when car speed hits 45-50+ mph, but that isn't proven by me. If I didn't know any better, it seems the air goes slightly warm at stoplights after blowing cold.

I've seen independent posts on the connector for the radiator fan, but the fan itself does spin at least some, even when air is blowing hot (and parked). Anyone have any suggestions? I've seen lots of similar posts, but this isn't when idling or 100% all the time when starting the engine.
 

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My 2011 is black and when I park it in the sun on a hot day does the same thing.
My theory is that at a certain temperature under the hood the compressor does
not run in order to keep it from overheating. Then after just a few blocks it cuts
on, I'm guessing after some fresh cooler air is moved in under the hood.
I don't remember if it did this when it was new, and no idea if my theory above
is correct. But it is consistent, and only happens on 90, maybe 95 degree days.
 

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Mine does this too. I don't think the compressor is engaging right away for some reason, I can feel it a mile or so down the road when it does because I can hear the compressor engage (slight moan) and the air gets cooler suddenly. Sometimes simply revving the engine a few times will make it start working. I don't really understand why this happens, because it works perfectly once it kicks on.
 

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This happened in my 2011, it was a bad compressor. Unlike most cars the compressor is not cycled with an external clutch, it has an internal switch that turns it on and off. That switch can fail to operate initially when the AC is turned on after the car has been sitting in hot weather, eventually it will engage after a delay and the AC will operate normally and blow cold. Back when I had my Sonata there were a number of posts here by people with the same problem so it's a known issue.
Fortunately when this happened with my car it was still under warranty, although it was difficult to get the dealer to confirm the compressor was the problem. At first they tried to sell me a recharge and send me on my way, but when the problem happened again right when I came to pick up the car (fortunately it was a hot day and they left it sitting outside) they then diagnosed the faulty compressor and replaced it. I did not have the problem again in the remaining time that I owned the car.
At this point unless you have an extended warranty on that 2012 a compressor replacement (if that is what is needed) will be on your dime so you'll want to make sure it is correctly diagnosed. You can confirm whether the compressor is operating by feeling the lines in the engine compartment, if it is running properly the high side line will be hot and the low side will be cold. If both lines are at ambient temperature the compressor isn't working.
 

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I mentioned it to the dealer right before my warranty ran out last November, and of course they couldn't replicate the problem. It's a shame to have to replace a compressor because of a simple little switch, the thing will freeze you out of the car once it starts working.
 

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If I don't mind waiting a block or 2 does the issue reduce the life of the compressor?
I might as well let it fail since it has to be replaced.
 

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I'm in a southern hot climate and my A/C never does that.

I would have the freon completed evac'd and recharged. I'd also have them replace the receiver drier.

Replace your cabin air filter if over a year old. And, make sure your serpentine belt is not slipping, or replace it if over 5 years old.

Even though its most likely the compressor, if out of warranty, dealer will charge too much for repair.

And, the internal clutch can be manually triggered like an external clutch. So, if you want to run a jumper wire for the 1st 5 minutes of your commute, that is a test option also. So, test the power to the compressor(multimeter or light bulb). Compressor is bad when you get no freon pumping around when the clutch is engaged. Compressor is usually good if you're waiting 5-minutes for the internal clutch to kick in.

My compressor started making noise about a year ago. Since the AC is used almost year round, and the freon/oil levels are full, I know that my compressor will soon need to be replaced. But, I'll 1st start with the drive pulley/plate and clutch field coil, which usually can be replaced on the car with freon loss. I just hope that the bearing noise is coming from within those replaceable parts. The parts guy called it a disk/hub assembly which I believe has the internal clutch and noisy bearing, and was <$100. I didn't have my VIN so didn't get a part number. I guess its profitable to replace the entire compressor and not the clutch that engages it. Do some research!
 

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I'm doing the serpentine belt very soon, and they will be checking the refrigerant soon on the 90K.
Good to know there is the option to replace the clutch.
 

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Its the compressor. Mine does it as well, Replacement is the solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for feedback

Although it hurts to hear, appreciate the feedback about the compressor. I'll likely wait until it's ready to die completely, but much appreciated for the help!
 

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Although it hurts to hear, appreciate the feedback about the compressor. I'll likely wait until it's ready to die completely, but much appreciated for the help!
Mine has done this since it was 2 years old.. at 94K on the ODO now and it still functions the same, temperamental ...

Diagnosed it Enhanced live data, measuring evap temp, ac relay. and detection of low side line getting cold. even cycling it a bunch of times by "jumping the compressor" did not do anything, the internal clutch is the culprit. When the ac works, it works great. just have to wait for it wanting to work.


side note, Performing Evac and recharge had no effect. Also tried under filling by a little, overfilling by a little. same results. Just good oll Hyundai Quality.
 

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I made a thread about this same issue on my 2011 a while back. My A/C won't get cold when I first start it up (sunny day) and stay parked. Once I start driving it begins to get cold. The dealer said it was a bad compressor but I refused to believe and also did not want to pay the $1,000 quote they gave me.

I may take it to an independent shop to get it remedied but its really not an issue right now. At stoplights it doesn't happen alot, maybe when it gets really hot out I may see whats up.

Do you guys recommend buying the OEM part or just having the shop do it themselves?
 

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Yesterday it was 74 deg midday car was sitting in the sun and it took a few blocks
for the AC to come on.
Last night down to 47, went out late came on right away.
This morning 52 degrees also came on right away.
Does something stick with the temp change or does a thermal protector drift with
age so it cuts in early? I really don't get what is going on.
 

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Bad compressor on 2012 Sonata 2.0 Turbo

Dealer checked at my request. Charged about $130 just for checking it. Quoted $900 for a generic one and $1100 for an original. They said it only engage if engine was running at some level of RPMs but not on idle. This just says Hyundai's quality is not at par with their Japanese competitors. I've owned Nissan and Honda before for more than 10 years and no issues like this. I told them to leave it as it is. I will check if accelerating it in Neutral causes it to kick in.
 

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Although it hurts to hear, appreciate the feedback about the compressor. I'll likely wait until it's ready to die completely, but much appreciated for the help!
You really ought to have it serviced/repaired....If the compressor starts blowing apart it'll cost you so much more......
 

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I still haven't replaced mine yet either. It does the same thing. Only gets cold once I start driving at a certain speed (like 40+) without stopping. So on the freeway I'm golden, but stop and go its bad especially if my car has been parked in the hot sun for a long time. And we are in a heatwave right now too.

Whats an estimate quote to replace the compressor at a shop? I know the compressor runs like $250-300 on Rockauto no?

And yeah your right, this has Hyundai quality written all over it.
 

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The problem is the electronic control valve ($60) at the rear of the compressor. They can be replaced but the system still needs to be discharged, replace valve, evac, charge.
Changing compressor not a really difficult job, but I'd say @ $200/300 including the discharge, remove, install, evacuate, charge.

Been there done that, once done you'll freeze inside the car.

If you purchase something at RockAuto use the following code in where did you hear about us & receive 5% off parts, expires 9/30/18:
8860796879897372
 

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Yesterday it was 74 deg midday car was sitting in the sun and it took a few blocks
for the AC to come on.
Last night down to 47, went out late came on right away.
This morning 52 degrees also came on right away.
Does something stick with the temp change or does a thermal protector drift with
age so it cuts in early? I really don't get what is going on.

Something else easy to overlook: When sitting in the sun all day, everything in that car heats up - including the dashboard and all that ductwork that directs processed air where the driver or the system selects.

That right there is the BIGGEST difference between starting your car A/C during an early morning drive vs starting it at noon or afternoon. Later on the system must overcome all the heat absorbed, mainly by that plastic ductwork.

Something to think about!
 

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Something else easy to overlook: When sitting in the sun all day, everything in that car heats up - including the dashboard and all that ductwork that directs processed air where the driver or the system selects.

That right there is the BIGGEST difference between starting your car A/C during an early morning drive vs starting it at noon or afternoon. Later on the system must overcome all the heat absorbed, mainly by that plastic ductwork.

Something to think about!
That is definitely something to make sure is checked first. However, once it cools in the car, if it warms up again when back to < 2000RPM or so or < 45-MPH then that is no longer the issue.
 
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