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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

Read all about the P200A issues in past threads, thanks for clarification on a lot of what is going on here.

It seems as though when a P200a registers, most users here are able to see something visibly wrong with the lower intake upon inspection. I had my mechanic take it apart yesterday to do the swap and he informed me that no linkages are broken and everything appears to be moving correctly so he didn't replace the part as he didn't want to put a $500 part into the car, charge me for it, and I still have the same code/issue appearing.

My question is: if the flaps of the lower intake manifold are moving correctly, what is the likely culprit causing the error code? could it be that the VCM needs to be replaced but there is no issue with the lower intake manifold?

also, there are mixed reviews here as to whether or not it needs to go to a dealer to reset the code. Am i better off biting the bullet and paying the extra cost to have the dealer do this job? there is a $500 difference vs my mechanic.

thanks in advance!

Aaron
 

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2011, Hyundai, Sante Fe SE, 3.5L V6
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Ok so technically if you and mechanic see that VCM Actuator moved on start-up, flaps working in unison, gaskets still good, no vac leak etc. then yes take it to dealer to figure out the problem.

If you recently changed VCMA then you MUST take it to dealer for relearning process. (forgot the cost for this.)
This is the technically appropriate thing to do especially if your private mechanic is stumped.

Alternatively.
What drivers have said and also going by this sites forums say:
If u do switch vcm Actuator and you dont have any symptoms then you dont NEED to get relearning process done unless u want to get rid of CEL. Plenty have driven months after this process and nothing more became of it.

As far as your question of resetting code no definitive answer yet. I say because I am one of those ppl who had ZERO symptoms changed VCM. placed new gaskets, did compression testing etc. then took to dealer who reset code but then it came back about a week later. I currently still have CEL on my 2011 SE AWD 3.5L

Also
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok so technically if you and mechanic see that VCM Actuator moved on start-up, flaps working in unison, gaskets still good, no vac leak etc. then yes take it to dealer to figure out the problem.

If you recently changed VCMA then you MUST take it to dealer for relearning process. (forgot the cost for this.)
This is the technically appropriate thing to do especially if your private mechanic is stumped.

Alternatively.
What drivers have said and also going by this sites forums say:
If u do switch vcm Actuator and you dont have any symptoms then you dont NEED to get relearning process done unless u want to get rid of CEL. Plenty have driven months after this process and nothing more became of it.

As far as your question of resetting code no definitive answer yet. I say because I am one of those ppl who had ZERO symptoms changed VCM. placed new gaskets, did compression testing etc. then took to dealer who reset code but then it came back about a week later. I currently still have CEL on my 2011 SE AWD 3.5L

Also
Thanks for this information. I took it to the dealer today for a diagnosis. They are saying that it is infact the intake manifold runner that is faulty and needs to be replaced. They reference that the VCMA connector and wiring harness were checked and are OK. They also reference a VCMA Actuation Test that was OK. It looks like the intake manifold runner is the problem even though my private mechanic didn't see the issue.

The problem now is that I was wrong about the $500 difference for the dealer to fix the problem, it is actually a $1300 difference for them to install the parts to fix the issue, $2300 total, yikes! On the parts list the dealer lists the intake manifold runner, all of the involved gaskets as well as the intake valve sensor.

Question regarding the Sensor: could it be the cause of the problem here as a standalone? My private mechanic didn't see any visible damage to the intake manifold runner so he didn't replace the part. I don't think he would have tested the sensor in any way or thought of it as the main issue, but the dealer is listing it as needing to be replaced along with the intake manifold runner. Should I have my mechanic (or if it's less involved i could do it myself) install the sensor alone to see if this fixes the CEL and the issue altogether?

thanks in advance for anyone/everyone's insight!
 

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Thanks for this information. I took it to the dealer today for a diagnosis. They are saying that it is infact the intake manifold runner that is faulty and needs to be replaced. They reference that the VCMA connector and wiring harness were checked and are OK. They also reference a VCMA Actuation Test that was OK. It looks like the intake manifold runner is the problem even though my private mechanic didn't see the issue.

The problem now is that I was wrong about the $500 difference for the dealer to fix the problem, it is actually a $1300 difference for them to install the parts to fix the issue, $2300 total, yikes! On the parts list the dealer lists the intake manifold runner, all of the involved gaskets as well as the intake valve sensor.

Question regarding the Sensor: could it be the cause of the problem here as a standalone? My private mechanic didn't see any visible damage to the intake manifold runner so he didn't replace the part. I don't think he would have tested the sensor in any way or thought of it as the main issue, but the dealer is listing it as needing to be replaced along with the intake manifold runner. Should I have my mechanic (or if it's less involved i could do it myself) install the sensor alone to see if this fixes the CEL and the issue altogether?

thanks in advance for anyone/everyone's insight!
With Intake manifolds there are too many variables (like most auto work) to say its just the valve sensor but yes possible to answer your question.

If there saying to replace the entire manifold this is definately something you can do at home provided you have some car knowledge. I am no beginner but I dont compare to the level of these guys on this forum. I changed mine by myself while referncing this youtube video :

The part itself you can get on amazon, RockAuto or Hyundaipartsoem dot com.


If its just the VCMA (I know you said they tested and it was ok ) then thats simple 2 screws and a linkage. This I bought the dorman brand on walmart website.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With Intake manifolds there are too many variables (like most auto work) to say its just the valve sensor but yes possible to answer your question.

If there saying to replace the entire manifold this is definately something you can do at home provided you have some car knowledge. I am no beginner but I dont compare to the level of these guys on this forum. I changed mine by myself while referncing this youtube video :

The part itself you can get on amazon, RockAuto or Hyundaipartsoem dot com.


If its just the VCMA (I know you said they tested and it was ok ) then thats simple 2 screws and a linkage. This I bought the dorman brand on walmart website.
Thanks for the video, it looks fairly straight forward. I'm not an expert, but i've rebuilt carbs on an outboard boat motor and this looks like its around the same skill level required so i might attempt it myself.

Question: did you replace the sensor when you did the intake? I'm finding it near impossible to find an alternative at a reasonable price. The OEM is going to cost me $300 CAN. I've found some part numbers for aftermarket but can't find stock any where. Here's what i've found but cant get stock of: 2010 HYUNDAI SANTA FE 3.5L V6 Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve / Solenoid | RockAuto

if anyone knows how to find a reasonably priced aftermarket sensor i'm all ears!

thank you!
 

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Thanks for the video, it looks fairly straight forward. I'm not an expert, but i've rebuilt carbs on an outboard boat motor and this looks like its around the same skill level required so i might attempt it myself.

Question: did you replace the sensor when you did the intake? I'm finding it near impossible to find an alternative at a reasonable price. The OEM is going to cost me $300 CAN. I've found some part numbers for aftermarket but can't find stock any where. Here's what i've found but cant get stock of: 2010 HYUNDAI SANTA FE 3.5L V6 Intake Manifold Runner Control Valve / Solenoid | RockAuto

if anyone knows how to find a reasonably priced aftermarket sensor i'm all ears!

thank you!
No i did not have to change sensor. I didnt have to actually change out manifold. But I had luxury of taking it out some many times to find the problem that the removal and replacement is easy now. And again i dont see myself as topshot DIY'er.

But in regards to testing sensor I cant help becuase we checked with Ohm meter and it was supposedly good. I however dont remember what voltage we checked for and what else we checked to rule out sensor.
 

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Hi there...I'm also dealing with this recurring P200A on my daughters 2013 Kia Sorrento 3.5 V6

I'm also curious if anyone has any insight about what "normal" Valve Position Sensor voltages might be ?

I ask because mine reads 4.1V (normal , non actuated position) at one end of the linkage travel (with linkage disconnected from actuator) , and 3.2V when the linkage is rotated to the other end of the travel.

I've had the upper intake off and can view the flaps for both banks moving (appears ok, but I still may need to remove lower intake to ensure there's no blockage inside)

Actuator moves each time it is commanded with a scan tool.

Relearns have been completed successfully but code returns pending after start up

I only could get my hands on the car for about a day last time,(she's driving it regularly) but hope to keep it longer next time

Additionally, the lower intake was reportedly replaced at a Kia dealer some time (over a year) ago (but I haven't seen paperwork)....light has been on for a year.....Not long after the last repair (lower intake replaced) at dealer

I've read the eng139 tsb , and understand the actuator is a common issue, (if the flaps or gear drive isn't broken inside the lower intake), but am focusing on this sensor voltage right now because it doesn't seem like enough change (1 V or so) for a 5 V sensor

If anyone could possibly tell me what a "good' normally operating system's sensor reads it would be a great help

I'm expecting to see a range of maybe 4 v down to 1 v ? Which is why I suspect maybe something is stuck inside the lower intake that I can not see without completely removing it ?

Thanks again
 
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