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Discussion Starter #1
This morning my Elantra wouldn't start. The engine did not turn over, not even a click. The lights, radio, and fan worked, still I tried to jump it and nothing changed when I turned the key. I think it might be the starter or a blown fuse possibly? It is also very cold here. Ive seen many Elantra owners who have this issue due to the vehicle not registering that it is in park but the P was displayed on my dashboard.
 

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Did you try moving the shifter to 'N' to see if that got the engine to crank?

The other thing you could try is a bypass test on the START relay on the engine bay fusebox. If bypassing the relay makes the engine crank you at least know the starter motor and all it's wiring/connections are OK.

To perform the relay bypass :
make sure the shifter is in 'P' or 'N'
switch the ignition on
remove the START relay from the engine bay fusebox
use a short link wire to bridge the terminals on the relay socket as shown below

Regards.
Scott.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am at work, but I was going to try it in neutral when I got home. So if I do the bypass and the engine still doesn't crank that narrows it down to being the starter? Ive had a starter go out in a vehicle before but it still clicked when you turned the key. I'm hearing no sound when I turn the key. Thanks for the advice! In a elantra is there a fuse that could be blown that would cause this issue? There is a fuse on the battery its self which I researched and it sounded like it dealt with making sure the alternator was charging battery (which I do not think the battery is the issue) All my other vehicles have been older with a much less complex electrical system !
 

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Quick and dirty, do the lights dim when you turn the key to start? If there is no change in the lights, there is no current draw to the starter. Could be bad starter, relay, or connection, but will at least give a clue.

If the lights DO dim, current is going to the starter, it just isn't enough power to crank.

If the lights go out, test the battery.

These are "side of the road/stuck in a parking lot" tests that can sometimes get you home.

Scott's test shown above is also a quick and easy test, and a good one! Sometimes a relay just dies. If the jumper does get it to crank, the next thing I would do is reinstall the relay, put my finger on top of it and have someone try and start the car. If you feel a "click" in the relay, probably bad contacts internal, bad relay. If no click, you will need a meter to see if the signal is going to the relay coil to energize. If it is, and no click, bad relay most likely.

Curious, does the Elantra use the same relay in other locations?
 

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No crank, no start
Lights and radio work before trying to crank
And lights and radio work after trying to crank?
Then, I would take a stick and ask one to help crank engine while I hit starter
If it starts then starter is faulty

Could be a park/neutral safety switch
But doubtful at this point
Still no harm in trying to crank engine in neutral
Fast and easy test ... do it

When or if you do the by pass test on the starter relay, be sure the clip goes to pins 30 and 87
The danger is in pins 85 and 86. One of them leads to the ECU
And you never want to short the ECU to B+ or GND directly or you will have more problems
Pins 30 and 87 should be the load side of the relay
Power and starter motor
If it runs then the control side is faulty (ignition switch, wiring, etc.)
If it does not run then load side faulty (starter, wiries, etc)
 

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So if I do the bypass and the engine still doesn't crank that narrows it down to being the starter?
As avisitor points out, there are two circuits involved in making the starter operate. The relay control control circuit (ignition switch, park/neutral switch, alarm immobilizer) and the relay load circuit (battery, starter motor and wiring between the two). The bypass test will give you a clue about which one of those circuits the fault is likely to be on so you can focus your diagnosis. If the engine cranks you know the load circuit is OK and the fault is on the control circuit. If it doesn't crank you know the fault is on the load circuit, but that doesn't necessarily mean the starter itself is faulty.

MrCharles said:
Ive had a starter go out in a vehicle before but it still clicked when you turned the key. I'm hearing no sound when I turn the key.
Which is already kinda pointing to a fault on the relay control circuit. It doesn't sound (pardon the pun) like any power is being sent to the starter solenoid.

MrCharles said:
In a elantra is there a fuse that could be blown that would cause this issue?
Sorry, I'm not familiar with your particular model so I don't know.

MrCharles said:
There is a fuse on the battery its self which I researched and it sounded like it dealt with making sure the alternator was charging battery!
That will be the alternator fuse. It's to protect the alternator from damage from reverse polarity if someone was to connect the battery the wrong way round. It's nothing to do with the starter circuit.

BTW, if you don't have a helper to turn the key while you test the relay as flemmons suggested, the other way to test the relay is to simply swap it with one of the others. I'd suggest one of the FAN relays as a suitable donor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE: I got home and the car was doing the same thing. I looked under the hood and noticed the cover of the air filter was unlatched so I latched it and the car started right up. and started again later in the day. Went out this morning and it wouldnt turn over again. I think it has to do with the cold (-3) right now.
 

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UPDATE: I got home and the car was doing the same thing. I looked under the hood and noticed the cover of the air filter was unlatched so I latched it and the car started right up. and started again later in the day. Went out this morning and it wouldnt turn over again. I think it has to do with the cold (-3) right now.


I turned the key to ACC for about 30 seconds (suppose to help the fuel pump begin to cycle) and then it started right up. What could this be an indication of/what can I do to prevent this?
 

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Doubtful that the latch on the air filter box has anything to do with the engine not cranking to start
The best thing to do is to do testing on the starting system
Do the "Starter relay by pass test" to determine which part of the starter system circuit to investigate

If I were to go about trying to fix this issue
Then I would clean up all battery terminals and grounding points
Clean up the grounding points of the engine and/or transmission and chassis
Then go about testing the starter and associated wiring
 

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I turned the key to ACC for about 30 seconds (suppose to help the fuel pump begin to cycle) and then it started right up. What could this be an indication of?
Absolutely nothing.

Turning the key to ACC for 30 seconds doesn't make the fuel pump cycle.
And fuel pressure has absolutely nothing to do with making the engine crank anyway, so even if ACC did make the pump run it still doesn't do anything to help with the no crank fault you originally posted about.
 

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Yeah, this intermittent no crank, no start ... it is making you jump around
Got to stay focused upon what is wrong
When the car doesn't start, it doesn't crank
No crank, no start means to investigate the starting system
A crank, no start means to test the other parts of the engine that keep the engine running

With intermittent start, no start ...
best to begin by cleaning up all battery posts, terminals, and grounding points
Then go about testing the starting relay
Do the starting relay by pass test
 

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I have a 2013 elantra limited that is doing the exact same thing now that its cold outside. I have replaced the inhibitor switch already to rule that out but it still continues to have the intermittent problem in the mornings when its colder. In the afternoon when it starts to warm up the car will start after 2-5 times pressing the start button. but in the mornings it takes a good 25 to 40 tries to get the thing to finally start. The battery is fine all posts are cleaned and in good shape. About the only thing i havent tried is bypassing the relay. This is super annoying in the mornings when you gotta get to work. Ill try the relay bypass and see if that makes it start right up or not but hope someone else has solved this problem before.
 

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T2121, are you saying your engine won't crank, no start
Or is the issue a crank, no start???

What exactly is the issue that you are having?
 

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Some mornings it will start right up and some the engine wont even crank still. Every time I get it to start it seems like something different got it to work. Is always very cold when it won't start. I replaced the battery and that seemed to help. Next time it didn't start I had the battery checked and it was still good. I'm thinking it is a wire or something that is getting too cold. Or the starter? Any suggestions?
 

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If you want it fixed then you will have to stay focused on troubleshooting the problem.
What have you done so far?
Starter relay by pass test?
Park/neutral safety switch test?
Ignition relay test?
Did you check any of the fuses when it won't start?
Check the for spark when it won't start?
Sprayed some fuel into the air intake (avoid MAF, if you have one)?
Or is one hoping for summer to get here quickly??

It seems more than one person is having similar issues
But, what was done to find out the issues or real problem??
Otherwise, one might as well bring it to a mechanic and start changing parts
It will get fixed but it will cost a heck of a lot of money.
 

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Long store short, perhaps 6 months ago not sure it is related to my starting issue, my music player from USB will always reset back to the first song over night.

Since mid Feb this winter, on a coolest day morning, my 2015 Elantra would not start at all, no crank, not start. Prior to that sure there was couple times that it fails on first start, but it will starts on my second or third attempts. On that coolest morning at minus 20 degree centigrade I had no luck.

I wait for three days until it was minus 6 degree, I checked my battery, it seems good, secure the negative terminal as it was loose, then it starts on the second attempts (not the first one).

But this start issue remains randomly, usually I have to shift the stick back and fore, or starts from Neutral. It seems only fails when the car left out door under cool temperature. It has not fails to start at in-door garage after work.

I had swapped the start relay four times with same type inside the box. Issue just coming back after days/weeks.

Last couple times, I have to shift the stick many time that leading me to believe it was the inhibit switch (or call range switch) issue. Mind you that the dash board shows correctly each time with the stick positions, P, R,N and D when moving the stick around.

During all this failures, I observed that when I turn the ignition key slowly to start,
first I will hear a small noise from the 'start reply' then a much louder noise, like a 'TAC' mechanical noise which I believe is the loud shifting ( engaging ) from the starting gear.
I think the starter solenoid had engaging the gear to the engine, but the starter motor was not turning at the same time to crank the engine. At this point I thought it is a bad (intermittent) starter motor. If my observation is correct on the 'TAC' noise, the starter solenoid was activated on every start attempt. then I could say that the wire/connection between the start and replay are working, no intermittent connector.

For two months, somehow either I push the car in neutral or keep shifting the stick, car starts finally after minutes or over night(s).

At the very beginning, I though the issue is the intermittent bad connector to the starter (solenoid).
Once I could hear the TAC noise, I thought the issue is a bad starter (motor not rotating).
Since it finally starts after moving the stick many times, my thought go to the inhibit (range) switch.

This morning, around zero degree, car fails to start again, no matter how many times I shift the stick, no luck. Until the last try I keep longer on the start position, usually I dare to keep too long to avoid double cranking from old days experience, then put back to ACC position. This time it try a short crank because I already moving back to ACC, so it would not continue running.
I immediately realized something here. Next I keep on holding at the start position and slowly release it or move back and fore around the start position. Now it start!

If it keep behaving like this way, it leads me to believe it is an intermittent ignition (ACC,ON,start) switch issue.

I will try the starter relay by-pass (short circuit the two relay outputs) on next start issue to isolate more.

One area I don't understand is, if the starter replay is good, that is why the solenoid engage the gear and making the 'TAC' loud noise. The circuit I saw on Internet is just one starter replay controlling the gear shifting and motor ON/OFF. Is it the same replay (output) circuit turns ON the starter motor? Why the motor not turning until next days, fooling around on shift stick position...???

If my assumption is correct, the 'TAC' noise is coming from the starter gear is shifting, then I should have a intermittent motor, but today it starts when I slowly release from the start position twice.

I'm not a car technician, could someone comments on this?
If it is the issue of ignition switch, changing it might need key reprogramming or not?
May be part of the switch can be replace without key re-program?
Anyone could advice?

Many THANKS. Phi
 
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