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Hi all,

It seems my 2012 Elantra GLS is eating through tires, the original continentals that came with the car lasted approximately 48,000km. I replaced them with a set of Michelin Defender tires which Midas just showed me need to be replaced; the mechanic showed me the tread is at the wear bar on all four tires but indicated that the wear is even and there are no alignment issues present. The Defenders lasted ~57,700km and have a warranty of 145,000km per Michelin's website.

My question is: does anybody else notice their car wearing out tires more quickly than normal? I drive mostly on the highway and for long distances at a time.

Other concern is regarding brakes, currently at ~105,000km with the original front rotors and pads, mechanic recommended replacement (~10% life remaining). I replaced the rear pads and rotors with coated rotors previously, but they still have quite a bit of rust on them. I was led to believe that coated rotors should have minimal/no rust on them and are worth the premium over standard rotors.

Are coated rotors worth the difference in your experience? Should they have no/minimal rust after ~30,000km.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I think if you want no or minimal rust then you have to use the car
And possibly paint the hub portion of the rotors.
Cost should be less than the difference between e-coated rotors and plain rotors with (rotor paint)
Got to remember the rotors get quite hot.
Some coatings won't last a long time.
 

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It's a low profile vehicle.
 

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Hi all,

My question is: does anybody else notice their car wearing out tires more quickly than normal? I drive mostly on the highway and for long distances at a time.
Many past topic in regard to poor handling and destruction of tires on UD/MD Elantra.. If you could actually see "virtual vehicle" of align numbers as it sits... never mind when somebody just up and says "it in spec"..... look at the numbers,, stand up,, spread feet as far apart as possible,, legs = camber,,, and point you toes in as far as you can to represent "toe".... now reference that to how your tires rolling down road... I Think Hyundai spec is "if the wheels still attached to rear axle,,, it in spec"

Other concern is regarding brakes, currently at ~105,000km with the original front rotors and pads, mechanic recommended replacement (~10% life remaining). I replaced the rear pads and rotors with coated rotors previously, but they still have quite a bit of rust on them. I was led to believe that coated rotors should have minimal/no rust on them and are worth the premium over standard rotors ?

Are coated rotors worth the difference in your experience? Should they have no/minimal rust after ~30,000km.

Thanks in advance.




 

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I have defenders too, the hankooks died at 18k they had lost "chunks" of rubber, must've run over hot asphalt or something, normal wear although the front will get deflated rather quick compared to the rear, guessing it's due to lack of weight in the back. Front OEM pads replaced at 40k miles, rear due replacement soon.
 

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Originally Posted by sbr711
"I Think Hyundai spec is "if the wheels still attached to rear axle,,, it in spec"

Really not that far from the truth - for my 2013 SFS the owners manual states that the vehicles has been carefully aligned at the factory and may not require any adjustment for the life of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the replies.

Any thoughts on the coated rotors vs. normal rotors in terms of the coated rotors being worth the cost?
 

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Any thoughts on the coated rotors vs. normal rotors in terms of the coated rotors being worth the cost?
IMO not worth it. Coated rotors are just for looks. Rust never gets a chance to build up on the parts that make contact with the pads. Who cares if the other parts are looking a little red? Is someone going to look through your rims and stare at the color of the brake rotors on a last gen Hyundai?
 

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Only some people get those tire manufacturer's tire mileage figures. If you are mostly hwy, and if you drive like grandma and grandpa on a Sunday drive and coast to slow down vs brake to slow down. Then add that most all-seasoned tires are now coming highly sipped and the tread blocks roll over easier because of it. Otherwise, I have asked many people if they ever get close to those figures and the ones I asked have confess they are more aggressive drivers then grandma and grandpa. It is surprising on how much rubber you scruff off when after stopping accelerating while turning right and accelerating into traffic on a simple city street. Add in average to some heavy braking and even the best aligned car will eat tires up far before the manufactures warranty. Then they want you to run them to 2/32 in a Minnesota winter to follow their warranty guidelines. What? 2/32 in a Minnesota winter.......


Add to this, the first place you need to look is at the UTQG "Treadwear" spec on the side of the tire, you can get as low as 280 and as high as 800 that I have seen. The same looking tire to the layman will wear VASTLY different because of tire design structure and rubber compound, it's not always apple to apples.


.
 

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Driving style and road conditions can shorten the life of the tires drastically. My city driving commute eats tires(many turns made). My ol' highway commute was very kind to the tires.

Full alignment should be mandatory for EVERY set of new tires. One can not always see uneven wear that looks even, or the cause of excessive wear that is even.

Tire PSI is a cold shade check. Most members here are too low already now. Get a quality gauge and pump and check regularly. Most tires lose a measurable amount of air in a month, besides the normal PSI changes to the usually seasons.

Coated rotors depends on the coating type, brand..... list that info for an answer to your question. I always buy coated rotors. Where is your rust? Post a picture.
 

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"Really not that far from the truth - for my 2013 SFS the owners manual states that the vehicles has been carefully aligned at the factory and may not require any adjustment for the life of the vehicle."


Similar to what Hyundai says about the transmission in my (13EGT) SEALED FOR LIFE >> yeah right ????
 

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The only alignment adjustment on the Elantra is the front toe. The rest, you are stuck with what ever you have. The main problem is too much rear toe. It may be in spec, but it wears out your tires.
 
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