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2011 Sonata GLS. Replacing A/C valve vs entire A/C compressor

17K views 81 replies 7 participants last post by  medium1 
#1 · (Edited)
*Edited.

Has anyone had problems after replacing the valve only? I'm leaning towards replacement of the compressor entirely with an OEM since it comes with the valve anyway. And have you had the condenser replaced if you did the compressor too?

Been dealing with A/C issues for a few years now and have decided to get this fixed. I have had no cold air on hot days at low RPM or driving at slow speeds. My A/C only 'engages' when I started driving faster. If I'm parked, the air will never get cold. Have to start moving for it to kick in basically.

I can get the compressor replaced for $170 (labor and A/C service) + price of the part. So the valve replacement would be significantly cheaper since the part is cheaper.

The only official diagnosis I've had from a shop is from the dealership...they said my compressor is bad. Upon reading further it turns out the dealership doesn't replace the valve so they quote you the compressor.
 
#2 ·
Might want to state the problem, as the component(s) only need to be replaced when the system becomes contaminated. Over the years with the various problem I've encountered, never replaced a condenser and never a problem.

The most prevalent problem with the VDC is on start up, maybe a 5-10 minute delay before cold air, sometimes longer, and that's usually an indication of a faulty control valve.
 
#3 ·
No cold air on hot days at low RPM or driving at slow speeds. Only 'engages' when I started driving faster. If I'm parked the air will never get cold. Have to start moving for it to kick in basically.

The problem with replacing the valve is the labor and it also requires evacuating the system right?
It doesn't help that the shops I call don't know about the valve and also the dealership said I need a new compressor after diagnosing it.

Any advice on aftermarket compressors? I was looking at UAC and Four Seasons from RockAuto
 
#4 ·
You are correct in that the system needs to be discharged, but a valve is a lot less expensive than a compressor. The valve on our '11 2.0T went south, sometimes a 5-15 minute delay before cooling to one day @ 95 F, it quit completely. The compressor was noisy, so rather than replacing the valve, went with an used compressor, one with 23,000 miles $60 and been fine for 3 years. The only problem with the used compressor is if it's bad, more labor to do the job again, but I did the work myself, turned out fine.

Compressors from RA are fine, but the warranty is only good if other components are replaced with the compressor.
If you want to look for an used compressor:
www.car-part.com
Could purchase an inexpensive unit w/low miles, have the valve changed, then do the install.

As far as I know, the dealerships don't replace the valve, just the compressor. I found out after the fact, but a friend of ours, same problem, 2013 72,000 miles, had the dealership take care of the problem $1100.
 
#5 ·
You are correct in that the system needs to be discharged, but a valve is a lot less expensive than a compressor. The valve on our '11 2.0T went south, sometimes a 5-15 minute delay before cooling to one day @ 95 F, it quit completely. The compressor was noisy, so rather than replacing the valve, went with an used compressor, one with 23,000 miles $60 and been fine for 3 years. The only problem with the used compressor is if it's bad, more labor to do the job again, but I did the work myself, turned out fine.

Compressors from RA are fine, but the warranty is only good if other components are replaced with the compressor.
If you want to look for an used compressor:
www.car-part.com
Could purchase an inexpensive unit w/low miles, have the valve changed, then do the install.

As far as I know, the dealerships don't replace the valve, just the compressor. I found out after the fact, but a friend of ours, same problem, 2013 72,000 miles, had the dealership take care of the problem $1100.
What was the mileage on the car you got the used compressor off of?

I can get a compressor put in for $160 (labor and a/c service)

I believe thats the same labor I'd pay if I replace the valve. And since the compressor comes with a replacement valve I think I may do just that.
 
#8 ·
Why get a diagnosis, just have them replace the valve. Diagnosis on a VDC compressor is difficult:

Have not seen any that had a recurring problem after the valve installation. In essence that's what you are doing by replacing the compressor, nothing wrong with the compressor, just the valve is bad, at least that's what it looks like.
 
#11 ·
From what I've seen, the valve is 2 pin valve and the one at RockAuto is not correct for the >'11, but the one from ebay is the type that's needed, VS16E.
Compare the 2 valves and one will see that the connections differ, and all I've seen are the 2 pin connector, but I'd take a quick look at the compressor a see if the connection at the valve is 2 pin just to be certain.
 
#17 · (Edited)
It's located at the rear on the compressor. If you look at the compressor follow the power wire to the rear and that connects to the valve.

As most all the problems I've heard of has been the control valve not functioning properly, but can one state that all a/c problems are responsible for a non-functioning control valve, no.
When mine started to act up, as stated before, delays ranged from maybe a couple minutes up to 15 minutes then ran fine, no problem cooling, but at idle no cold air. I first checked the pressure when off @ 105, then running low/high fine, then checked evap temp sensor, transducer, voltage at valve, everything checked out so decided it had to be the valve. The day the A/C stopped, wife gave me an ultimatum, fix the air or use her car, next day it was fixed.
I always say, I wear the pants in the family...............but my wife tells me which one to wear.
 
#20 ·
Alright thanks. Yeah I don't know a whole bunch about A/C systems just yet.

Is it logical to say that: if the freon were low, then I wouldn't have cold air when driving at highway speeds correct?

Especially considering I had it inspected for leaks a couple years back and none were found.
 
#37 ·
Still lurking around these parts-
Yes I was referring to the valve. I just didn't know it was actually a valve at that time so I called it a switch.
Amazing this is still happening after all these years, glad I got mine fixed under warranty back then but I did have a heck of a time proving to the dealer what it was.
 
#41 ·
when you say you got yours fixed do you mean compressor replacement through the dealership?
There is no switch to turn the compressor on/off as the compressor is turning all the time, even when the a/c is off, but the swash plate that is controlled by the control valve moves to increase/decrease the piston displacement, and w/o talking to the "tech" can't guess what he did or didn't do.

Guess another question, did he recharge the system and if so, how is the system now acting?
Maybe it's just me, but the results and statements made just don't make sense as I certainly would want to know why the compressor was condemned.

It is what it is, and as it didn't cost any money, and even that didn't make any sense, time, gas etc., but an experience to remember. This is the first one that I've come across that the new valve didn't fix the problem.

Keep us informed.
yep I’ll keep you guys updated ill call the shop on monday
 
#39 ·
There is no switch to turn the compressor on/off as the compressor is turning all the time, even when the a/c is off, but the swash plate that is controlled by the control valve moves to increase/decrease the piston displacement, and w/o talking to the "tech" can't guess what he did or didn't do.

Guess another question, did he recharge the system and if so, how is the system now acting?
Maybe it's just me, but the results and statements made just don't make sense as I certainly would want to know why the compressor was condemned.

It is what it is, and as it didn't cost any money, and even that didn't make any sense, time, gas etc., but an experience to remember. This is the first one that I've come across that the new valve didn't fix the problem.

Keep us informed.
 
#72 ·
I may have to get the compressor also. I mean it gets cool but not freezing. I don't know if he evacuated wrong but I guess the compressor is bad and this has been going on since I had 30 something thousand on my car. My mom Lexus has over 200 thousand miles on it and it gets freezing cold. Hyundai is a money pit. My next car is a Toyota.
 
#80 ·
If working properly it will freeze you out. Did they charge by weight?

Out yesterday in the '11, 96F, didn't check the air temp at the vent, but was set on 70 and the wife needed a sweater around the shoulders.
As stated before, check the air temp at the vent when on max. I'll check mine today.........if I remember to take the stick thermometer with me.
 
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