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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*Edited.

Has anyone had problems after replacing the valve only? I'm leaning towards replacement of the compressor entirely with an OEM since it comes with the valve anyway. And have you had the condenser replaced if you did the compressor too?

Been dealing with A/C issues for a few years now and have decided to get this fixed. I have had no cold air on hot days at low RPM or driving at slow speeds. My A/C only 'engages' when I started driving faster. If I'm parked, the air will never get cold. Have to start moving for it to kick in basically.

I can get the compressor replaced for $170 (labor and A/C service) + price of the part. So the valve replacement would be significantly cheaper since the part is cheaper.

The only official diagnosis I've had from a shop is from the dealership...they said my compressor is bad. Upon reading further it turns out the dealership doesn't replace the valve so they quote you the compressor.
 

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Might want to state the problem, as the component(s) only need to be replaced when the system becomes contaminated. Over the years with the various problem I've encountered, never replaced a condenser and never a problem.

The most prevalent problem with the VDC is on start up, maybe a 5-10 minute delay before cold air, sometimes longer, and that's usually an indication of a faulty control valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Might want to state the problem, as the component(s) only need to be replaced when the system becomes contaminated. Over the years with the various problem I've encountered, never replaced a condenser and never a problem.

The most prevalent problem with the VDC is on start up, maybe a 5-10 minute delay before cold air, sometimes longer, and that's usually an indication of a faulty control valve.
No cold air on hot days at low RPM or driving at slow speeds. Only 'engages' when I started driving faster. If I'm parked the air will never get cold. Have to start moving for it to kick in basically.

The problem with replacing the valve is the labor and it also requires evacuating the system right?
It doesn't help that the shops I call don't know about the valve and also the dealership said I need a new compressor after diagnosing it.

Any advice on aftermarket compressors? I was looking at UAC and Four Seasons from RockAuto
 

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You are correct in that the system needs to be discharged, but a valve is a lot less expensive than a compressor. The valve on our '11 2.0T went south, sometimes a 5-15 minute delay before cooling to one day @ 95 F, it quit completely. The compressor was noisy, so rather than replacing the valve, went with an used compressor, one with 23,000 miles $60 and been fine for 3 years. The only problem with the used compressor is if it's bad, more labor to do the job again, but I did the work myself, turned out fine.

Compressors from RA are fine, but the warranty is only good if other components are replaced with the compressor.
If you want to look for an used compressor:
www.car-part.com
Could purchase an inexpensive unit w/low miles, have the valve changed, then do the install.

As far as I know, the dealerships don't replace the valve, just the compressor. I found out after the fact, but a friend of ours, same problem, 2013 72,000 miles, had the dealership take care of the problem $1100.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are correct in that the system needs to be discharged, but a valve is a lot less expensive than a compressor. The valve on our '11 2.0T went south, sometimes a 5-15 minute delay before cooling to one day @ 95 F, it quit completely. The compressor was noisy, so rather than replacing the valve, went with an used compressor, one with 23,000 miles $60 and been fine for 3 years. The only problem with the used compressor is if it's bad, more labor to do the job again, but I did the work myself, turned out fine.

Compressors from RA are fine, but the warranty is only good if other components are replaced with the compressor.
If you want to look for an used compressor:
www.car-part.com
Could purchase an inexpensive unit w/low miles, have the valve changed, then do the install.

As far as I know, the dealerships don't replace the valve, just the compressor. I found out after the fact, but a friend of ours, same problem, 2013 72,000 miles, had the dealership take care of the problem $1100.
What was the mileage on the car you got the used compressor off of?

I can get a compressor put in for $160 (labor and a/c service)

I believe thats the same labor I'd pay if I replace the valve. And since the compressor comes with a replacement valve I think I may do just that.
 

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What was the mileage on the car you got the used compressor off of?

I can get a compressor put in for $160 (labor and a/c service)

I believe thats the same labor I'd pay if I replace the valve. And since the compressor comes with a replacement valve I think I may do just that.
Compressor was from a 2013 Hyundai Sonata 23,000 miles.
Don't forget to check/add oil to the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Compressor was from a 2013 Hyundai Sonata 23,000 miles.
Don't forget to check/add oil to the compressor.
Yes the compressors I'm looking at on Amazon (oem) come with the oil added.

Right now I'm trying to weigh my options, replacing the valve vs compressor.

I can't get a diagnosis on the valve without paying and that will also take time. I'm strongly leaning towards the compressor since it comes with a new valve anyway.

Since you replaced the compressor entirely with a used one, I'm wondering if there is anyone out there that replaced the valve who still had issues afterwards.

I edited the OP so more people can chime in with their experiences.
 

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Why get a diagnosis, just have them replace the valve. Diagnosis on a VDC compressor is difficult:

Have not seen any that had a recurring problem after the valve installation. In essence that's what you are doing by replacing the compressor, nothing wrong with the compressor, just the valve is bad, at least that's what it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why get a diagnosis, just have them replace the valve. Diagnosis on a VDC compressor is difficult:

Have not seen any that had a recurring problem after the valve installation. In essence that's what you are doing by replacing the compressor, nothing wrong with the compressor, just the valve is bad, at least that's what it looks like.
Ok sounds pretty confident then. I'll call tomorrow and get price quotes on a valve replacement and see from there.

What part should I buy? Is this the OEM: MT3457 Arctic Air New AC Control Valve fits Halla Visteon VS16E VS18E Compressor | eBay

or will the UAC one from RockAuto do just fine? 2011 HYUNDAI SONATA 2.4L L4 A/C Compressor Control Valve | RockAuto
 

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Why get a diagnosis, just have them replace the valve. Diagnosis on a VDC compressor is difficult:

Have not seen any that had a recurring problem after the valve installation. In essence that's what you are doing by replacing the compressor, nothing wrong with the compressor, just the valve is bad, at least that's what it looks like.
Please show me what part to buy for a 2012 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L. I don't want to buy the wrong part.


Will this fit my make and model?
 

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From what I've seen, the valve is 2 pin valve and the one at RockAuto is not correct for the >'11, but the one from ebay is the type that's needed, VS16E.
Compare the 2 valves and one will see that the connections differ, and all I've seen are the 2 pin connector, but I'd take a quick look at the compressor a see if the connection at the valve is 2 pin just to be certain.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Please show me what part to buy for a 2012 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L. I don't want to buy the wrong part.


Will this fit my make and model?
From what I've seen, the valve is 2 pin valve and the one at RockAuto is not correct for the >'11, but the one from ebay is the type that's needed, VS16E.
Compare the 2 valves and one will see that the connections differ, and all I've seen are the 2 pin connector, but I'd take a quick look at the compressor a see if the connection at the valve is 2 pin just to be certain.

I ordered this one:

 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Are the 2012 different than the 11?
It looks like that part is compatible with 2011 - 2014 models. Two of the reviews are for 2013 models, and one review is for a 2014 model. Your 2012 is supported.

Why get a diagnosis, just have them replace the valve. Diagnosis on a VDC compressor is difficult:
...
nothing wrong with the compressor, just the valve is bad, at least that's what it looks like.
I think you have a point. Since my A/C is ice cold whenever I drive on long trips on the freeway. It's only on hot days, parking lot speeds when it won't cool.
 

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It looks like that part is compatible with 2011 - 2014 models. Two of the reviews are for 2013 models, and one review is for a 2014 model. Your 2012 is supported.



I think you have a point. Since my A/C is ice cold whenever I drive on long trips on the freeway. It's only on hot days, parking lot speeds when it won't cool.
Why when its real hot it doesn't cool but when its cool out it gets ice cold?
 

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It's located at the rear on the compressor. If you look at the compressor follow the power wire to the rear and that connects to the valve.

As most all the problems I've heard of has been the control valve not functioning properly, but can one state that all a/c problems are responsible for a non-functioning control valve, no.
When mine started to act up, as stated before, delays ranged from maybe a couple minutes up to 15 minutes then ran fine, no problem cooling, but at idle no cold air. I first checked the pressure when off @ 105, then running low/high fine, then checked evap temp sensor, transducer, voltage at valve, everything checked out so decided it had to be the valve. The day the A/C stopped, wife gave me an ultimatum, fix the air or use her car, next day it was fixed.
I always say, I wear the pants in the family...............but my wife tells me which one to wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's located at the rear on the compressor. If you look at the compressor follow the power wire to the rear and that connects to the valve.

As most all the problems I've heard of has been the control valve not functioning properly, but can one state that all a/c problems are responsible for a non-functioning control valve, no.
When mine started to act up, as stated before, delays ranged from maybe a couple minutes up to 15 minutes then ran fine, no problem cooling, but at idle no cold air. I first checked the pressure when off @ 105, then running low/high fine, then checked evap temp sensor, transducer, voltage at valve, everything checked out so decided it had to be the valve. The day the A/C stopped, wife gave me an ultimatum, fix the air or use her car, next day it was fixed.
I always say, I wear the pants in the family...............but my wife tells me which one to wear.
Facing rear of the vehicle, got it. I’m thinking labor charges will be about the same.

What is the difference between discharging and evacuating? Since I read here you mist discharge, replace valve, evacuate, and then re charge
 

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Discharge is to remove the refrigerant from the system to take all pressure out of the system, down to no pressure, e.g. recycle refrigerant, evacuate is to pull vacuum with a vacuum pump (@ 29 inches) to boil off any moisture, then charge with refrigerant.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Discharge is to remove the refrigerant from the system to take all pressure out of the system, down to no pressure, e.g. recycle refrigerant, evacuate is to pull vacuum with a vacuum pump (@ 29 inches) to boil off any moisture, then charge with refrigerant.
Alright thanks. Yeah I don't know a whole bunch about A/C systems just yet.

Is it logical to say that: if the freon were low, then I wouldn't have cold air when driving at highway speeds correct?

Especially considering I had it inspected for leaks a couple years back and none were found.
 
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