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Discussion Starter #1
Car was in the shop at 105K for the Engine replacement under extended warranty. They call and tell me all is good with new engine....except A/C is not blowing cool air now. I give them the go ahead to only diagnose and they tell me bad Compressor. Funny, the AC was on when the engine blew....go figure.

Price was roughly $1200 for fix, ~$800 for Compressor and $400 labor material. I can do it myself (been doing HVAC for 30 years) and I have all tools, vacuum pump, refrigerant, scale, etc.

I do a quick google search and see compressors all listed under ~$300. Seems odd the dealer wants to charge almost triple that.

Questions:
1. Am I missing something, is there some special Compressor for a 2011 that I do not know about.

2. Does anyone know the exact charge to the ounce?

3. Any gotchas on this vehicle to be concerned about?

Appreciate the support.
 

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Car was in the shop at 105K for the Engine replacement under extended warranty. They call and tell me all is good with new engine....except A/C is not blowing cool air now. I give them the go ahead to only diagnose and they tell me bad Compressor. Funny, the AC was on when the engine blew....go figure.

Price was roughly $1200 for fix, ~$800 for Compressor and $400 labor material. I can do it myself (been doing HVAC for 30 years) and I have all tools, vacuum pump, refrigerant, scale, etc.

I do a quick google search and see compressors all listed under ~$300. Seems odd the dealer wants to charge almost triple that.

Questions:
1. Am I missing something, is there some special Compressor for a 2011 that I do not know about.

2. Does anyone know the exact charge to the ounce?

3. Any gotchas on this vehicle to be concerned about?

Appreciate the support.
A/C info attached.
 

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Compressor has an electric control valve internal that vary the displacement of compressor.. is it indeed plugged back in.. I dont open A/C for engine replace, just unbolt unit and tie it out of way to bottom of bumper cover

I od have a couple dingle dongs in shop that feel need to open the system,, they hook back up and pull 5-10 minute vacuum and charge,,,, Uhhh,, system been hang open for 2 day now,, it flooded with moisture..

Hyundai dont offer a Re-Man compressor for YF,, new only.. retail rough $750 I think, add 2hr shop rate, some R-134 if system was dead upon arrival..

Neighbor in shop just change 1 yesterday..
 

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Its an easy job, if you got the scale, guages, pump and 134 your good to go.


https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7684400&cc=1502000&jsn=350&jsn=350

GPD 6512958 w/ Clutch Info
VS16E; 6 Groove
$224.89


plus shipping... rock auto.

or if you want name brand...

DENSO 4716044 {#977013R000, 977014R000} Compressor; w/ Clutch Info
OE-specified Oil included.
$288.89

rockauto.com for for everything.. they are going to be the cheapest.

Ive persionally used dozens of the GPD compressors, never had a problem.
 

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If he disconnected your ac because your engine was blown, sounds like he dont know squat what hes doing.
Or maybe he need you to pay for his trip to Hawaii.
 

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Harbor Freight has a AC pressure gauge set up for $50 right now!!!! Amazon has vacuum pumps for $55.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you everyone for the replies. Last thing, does anyone have the electrical wiring diagram for the A/C circuit? Before I splurge on the replacement parts I would like to double check their work and confirm there is indeed power going to the compressor on the correct wires as expected before condemning the compressor.

It is eating me up that the A/C was running when the engine died and now it is broke after they worked on it.
 

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Thank you everyone for the replies. Last thing, does anyone have the electrical wiring diagram for the A/C circuit? Before I splurge on the replacement parts I would like to double check their work and confirm there is indeed power going to the compressor on the correct wires as expected before condemning the compressor.

It is eating me up that the A/C was running when the engine died and now it is broke after they worked on it.
search through my post history. i remember helping someone else with that.
 

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Did want to reply as I didn't see anything in the other thread, there is no clutch on the variable displacement compressor. The compressor shaft turns all the time with the swash plate (inside) that will change piston displacement as cooling needs increase/decrease.
There is a sensor (check resistance with a mm-change with temp, stick in refrigerator) on the evap to detect freezing that will cut out compressor.
There is a 3 prong thermo sensor on the high pressure line 5v, grd, and voltage that will fluctuate with demand. The switch on the compressor, grd and voltage. When compressor needed, check wiring at comp to see if voltage, if so then plug in and compressor should change sound slightly as cooling is needed.

There is an electronic control valve in the back of the compressor where the wiring attaches and the bellows control the internal pressure.
Hope I remembered everything, but when control valve in comp bad, the low side will only drop slightly with high side running near normal.
Also, these compressors will not afford cold air when at idle for extended periods of time, it's a fuel mileage/engine idle thing, which personally I don't like.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally getting some time to check on this. I unplugged the two pin connector on the A/C compressor, inserted Fluke Meter leads into pins on plug while unplugged from Compressor, started car, turned on A/C and the voltage was a constant 4.0 vdc. I revved car to get RPM's up to see if voltage changed and it did not...stayed on 4.0vdc.

Any ideas?
 

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Finally getting some time to check on this. I unplugged the two pin connector on the A/C compressor, inserted Fluke Meter leads into pins on plug while unplugged from Compressor, started car, turned on A/C and the voltage was a constant 4.0 vdc. I revved car to get RPM's up to see if voltage changed and it did not...stayed on 4.0vdc.

Any ideas?
change compressor
 

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change compressor
Thanks Smoke1991

Based on your response, it sounds like 4.0vdc is an accurate voltage to tell the compressor's to run? Does that voltage vary depending on load, is 4 vdc the minimum to get it running?
It has a variable internal clutch. Voltage supplied to compressor changes the operation load. If your getting voltage to the compressor and it's not.ooerating at all then change the compressor.
 

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I am having same issue with 13 Sonata GLS 2.4 . Constant 5v no matter if A/C switch is on or off, no matter what RPM. One shop had no clue. Another said it was the "A/C Controller" since it was not communicating with the compressor.

Does this make sense? This is my son's car so I'm not that familiar with it's inner workings.

Smoke1991- If it is a bad compressor why would the voltage not change?

Thanks for educating me as I am trying to understand.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just received my New Denso Compressor and I was curious, are the o-rings that ship with the unit (under the suction and discharge caps) acceptable to use or should I purchase them separately? When I ordered the compressor it made not mention of these additional items?
 

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I od have a couple dingle dongs in shop that feel need to open the system,, they hook back up and pull 5-10 minute vacuum and charge,,,, Uhhh,, system been hang open for 2 day now,, it flooded with moisture...
Why does the shop manager not straighten them out on this practice? Even most backyard mechanics know not to open the system unless there's a reason to. :wallbash::wallbash:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Why does the shop manager not straighten them out on this practice? Even most backyard mechanics know not to open the system unless there's a reason to. :wallbash::wallbash:
I wonder how many bad A/C compressors after the warranty engine replacement. My failed compressor happened while in the shop. A/C was running when the engine failed.
 

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I am in a southern state. Certain makes have non stop compressor issues. Sad to say that our Hyundai is one of them... Rockauto or Amazon has the compressor kit.... with compressor seals receiver drier expansion valve... replace it all

Occasionally you'll see a bad pressure switch, HVAC switch, or thermistor...

And, I doubt it was caused by an engine swap. Check the hi/lo psi and all HVAC wiring. But, a compressor goes when it goes and is a Hyundai/Kia common point of failure.
 

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Just received my New Denso Compressor and I was curious, are the o-rings that ship with the unit (under the suction and discharge caps) acceptable to use or should I purchase them separately? When I ordered the compressor it made not mention of these additional items?

Replace the rings, we keep all 4 size of Hyundai part number o-ring in stock.. thank me for that at our place..

Use the Hyundai part, you only want to do the job the first time
 
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