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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I have a 2011 rio with 53,000 miles on it. Pretty sure it's identical to the accent. Anyway, I got off of work today and started my car and it started rough. (-30 windchill) Started throwing check engine light at me, and at this point it was running a little rough. So I had a friend with a scan tool check it and it threw a p0301 code at me. By this time there was no more issue, and all was well, but it seems the cold has found a weak point in one of my ignition coils. Am I right in assuming that's just a generic code?, because I have no idea on how I'm going to find out which coil it is when it's so intermittent right now. I'm going to drive the wife's car to work this weekend until monday when I can get a new coil and hope it totally goes out so I can find out which one it is.


any help would be appreciated, it's hard to tinker with it because it's so **** cold out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also should add it threw a p0140, which looking it up could be multiple things, but I think it's related to the misfire. Seems it's on bank 1.
 

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no replacing the coil is not necessarily the problem. this is why i try to encourage actually diagnosing the problem instead of tossing random parts at it.

i looked up those codes myself and found no multiple results. its pretty straight forward.

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0140 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

P0301 says your cyl. 1 isn't igniting properly - it can't say why. that needs to be tested for spark for starters, as you can see there are multiple causes.

but before we go there P0140 is showing a dead o2 sensor - i believe that one is possibly causing the other. even though it shouldn't, there are some here who have had o2 sensor #2 dead and cause them driveability problems.

on the other hand....unignited fuel being tossed at the sensor could potentially cause the error.

start by diagnosing for misfires. check for pules on the wire with a detector...cheap and small, hold it up to the wire and the voltage induces a small current in a test light. use a mechanic's stethoscope on the injector to see if its functioning right. should snap loudly. next pull the plug and inspect. is it wet with fuel? damaged somehow? describe. you should be carefully checking all wires and connections along the way.

that stuff should be easy enough in the cold. see what you come up with from there.
 

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clear the code. see if it comes back.

to be honest I have done this twice over the course of 105k miles. the car seems to do it if it has sat for a few days without being driven, but the code never happens repeatedly, so I dont bother to diagnose any further.

yeah yeah, i should diagnose. ill do that when it REALLY becomes a consistent problem.
 

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clear the code. see if it comes back.
his car is running rough, a simple ECU glitch is off the table at this point.

provided it didn't come back and isn't coming back....yeah i do the same myself :p

every now and then i get it misfiring when i turn it on briefly and then it goes away. i don't care.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Forgot to mention we cleared it and the cel and missing went away shortly after and I was able to drive it home 40 miles just fine. My luck sucks though because my battery is frozen so that's first right now. :/
 

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so file this one under possible coil or possible ECU glitch for now.

i'd recommend getting a small spark indicator light. cheap tool, just hold it up to each wire and it'll light up if the plug/coil is firing. toss it into your glovebox. if it starts this nonsense again, you'll be able to determine if its the coil in seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well it wasn't so much the battery as my starter not budging. Where is it located so I can tap on it a bit? I had this issue last year when it got really cold out. I should add I didn't have to tap it, it just engaged when I tried it after.
 

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It's at the back of the engine underneath the intake manifold, you will see a big cable going to it.

If you think it's frozen you could run a hair dryer on it for five minutes.

Sometimes sitting in a heated garage works too; it's #*# cold up here to.
 

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Sometimes sitting in a heated garage works too.
it'll work for the starter, but its terrible for the car itself. that heat will accelerate rust like no other.

if the starter itself won't turn because its seizing in the cold it may be time for a new starter. could indicate that the bushings aren't right, motor itself is wearing out, etc. another alternative is that the battery is not supplying enough current to turn the motor properly - at least initially.

recommend testing battery (any parts store should do this for free), checking all wiring to starter carefully and if it continues take starter out and get it tested at a parts store. many do this for free, all they need is the test bench.
 

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I've got a solution; Move to a warmer area! Lol, I kid, but really do hate this time of year in New England. I notice any temps under 0°F seem to be harsh on most cars. Couple that with all the salt they throw on the roads. :mad:

it'll work for the starter, but its terrible for the car itself. that heat will accelerate rust like no other.
x2 So many people either don't think of this, don't realize it, or just don't care. I should search on here if anyone's covered the topic of rust prevention or what's been tried. Even tho really it's a pretty general car topic for any make/model..

The starters on the Accent seems like it'd be a pain to get out due to location and space but luckily I've yet to tackle that problem. Check the + cable on it tho for any corrosion too.

I've had one starter that bench tested fine, but wouldn't work when installed in the car. I'm fairly certain the solenoid was bad, but unfortunately for most cars you can't get starter parts separately nowadays. Had another where the ground wire between the solenoid and starter motor corroded but couldn't see that was the issue until it was completely off.

Anyways, good luck figuring out the Gremlins!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's all good now, I had it in a heated garage to warm up and it started right up. As for the battery, I just bought a new one last night because the 500 CCA sungwoo korean crap wasn't cutting it anymore. As for the starter, idk what to think. The only other time this happened was another -20F or worse spell that happened last winter, and that's it. Other than that nothing and I use my car alot. I put on about 20,000 miles a year(mostly commuting, but my car is started usually several times a day, every day. If it keeps happening I'll just replace the starter, because I need my car to be reliable.

In other news the misfiring and all that hasn't come back. yay! Do any of you know a good place to buy the coils for a good price? I don't want to pay almost 100 for oem, if an aftermarket brand will be just as good. But if oem is the way to go I'll have to shop around. Im thinking about buying one or two to have on hand in case it happens since I have my tools in my car all the time.
 

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Korean Auto Parts - Korea Auto Parts | FourGreen.com

Are good for all Korean parts , have used them often, OEM and reasonable.

Ford had an issue with f150 starters in 04-05 , random no start on fairly new vehicles; kinda like your problem. It's too early almost for corrosion etc, replacement might be best.
Years ago Hyundai actually switched to Bosch starter/alternators on some early problem vehicles like the Pony.

I have three Hyundai vehicles 05'0607 sitting in driveway with , 220,247,215k kilometres and all have original batteries; their batteries are much better than average; but if batteries freeze from low charge you are SOL.
 

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do consider that your heated garage WILL increase the rate of corrosion on your car. if you're ok with that, hey thats your decision. personally, i drive my cars into the ground firmly so anything i can do to reduce rust is welcome.
 

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Was just checking out HMAservice to get an idea about how the Starter it set up. Seems pretty standard. If your tech savvy & ambitious you might consider taking it off during the warmer months, partially disassembling it, clean it up a bit here and there; take note of where it's been greased and then maybe re-lubricate the main shaft with some high-end synthetic all-purpose kind of grease. I used some Mobil1 wheel bearing stuff I had lyin around once and it seemed to work pretty well.

I've had pretty good luck with RockAuto, the only trick tho is you have to know whom was the OEM manufacturer for parts. E.X. Belts you can stick with Gates, etc. I'll definitely check out Santa06's recommendation. Edit: Just checked it out and it's a little cumbersome as you seem to need the exact part # for what your looking for. They're menu only narrows it down by make and model, but not year, engine type, etc.

Just out of curiosity, what kind of battery did you use as a replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
do consider that your heated garage WILL increase the rate of corrosion on your car. if you're ok with that, hey thats your decision. personally, i drive my cars into the ground firmly so anything i can do to reduce rust is welcome.
The garage I used wasn't mine, my car is parked outside all day, every day. Although the house I'm buying soon does have a heated one stall. I'll let the wife use it mostly. I'll probably use it when I need to do work or something. I'm the same way with cars, or try to anyway. I told my wife I want to get 300,000 miles out of this car. Whether it's possible, I don't know.

I appreciate everyone's help on everything though.
 

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Was just checking out HMAservice to get an idea about how the Starter it set up. Seems pretty standard. If your tech savvy & ambitious you might consider taking it off during the warmer months, partially disassembling it, clean it up a bit here and there; take note of where it's been greased and then maybe re-lubricate the main shaft with some high-end synthetic all-purpose kind of grease. I used some Mobil1 wheel bearing stuff I had lyin around once and it seemed to work pretty well.

I've had pretty good luck with RockAuto, the only trick tho is you have to know whom was the OEM manufacturer for parts. E.X. Belts you can stick with Gates, etc. I'll definitely check out Santa06's recommendation. Edit: Just checked it out and it's a little cumbersome as you seem to need the exact part # for what your looking for. They're menu only narrows it down by make and model, but not year, engine type, etc.

Just out of curiosity, what kind of battery did you use as a replacement?
Well, I've done head gaskets on a honda civic and an 83 toyota tercel. Not that I was all that great at it, but I have a good head on my shoulders and I love to learn.

As for the battery, I went with a 600 CCA everstart I think. That OEM was getting pretty sluggish at 0F or below. I was looking for more potent batteries, and actually I should have room to put a bigger one in. I'd just need to fasten up a system to hold it in place.
 

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Haha I'm the same way! Not great either, but it can be fun to learn. Until of course you run into some corroded parts, things don't go smoothly, you know how it is. Sure can be satisfying when it all goes back together well. :D My background is more electrical though so I don't mind that aspect of most car repairs. Plus it helps when you've had to do the same repair multiple times, like replacing a starter 3 times within like, a year... But some mechanics, shadetree or otherwise, hate dealing with electrical stuff. Or in this case, electromechanical really, but it sounds like you'd be able to figure it out just fine.

Man what I wouldn't give to have a heated garage! Or even one without a gravel floor -_- Was curious on the battery as I like hearing about AGM style ones. Had an Optima Red-top that lasted me over 10 yrs. even with some abuse. If you poke around you can probably find a good chart with the different battery dimensions and match that to the tray on the Accent. That way you can select on that might be a similar width but longer length and then it should just bolt right in easily enough.
 
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