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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

My 2011 Limited Sonata 2.0T is running well currently at 88k miles. As I approach the 100k point where I will no longer have my warranty, what should I budget to replace/repair so I can get another 100k miles out of my car? I'm not looking to improve HP or torque, just looking to upgrade anything you might know of that is likely to fail prior to a breakage.

Thanks in advance
Mike
 

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Suggest you change the transmission fluid (drain/fill), change the coolant (drain/fill), have the brake fluid quality checked (test strips), keep changing your oil every 5K miles or less (since you have the 2.0T) and use a full synthetic motor oil (Castrol Edge, Mobil1, etc.). If you haven't replaced your spark plugs, now is the time to do that as well (45K mile replacement interval on the 2.0T). I'd also suggest a good 4-wheel alignment. I'm assuming you change the engine air filter and cabin air filter regularly or inspect them. Have you had the steering wheel bumper/rotor replaced under warranty?
 

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Anyone in WI or MN, Fleet Farm has one gal for $15 ($5 off) of full syn MaxLife ATF. Which is what I have been using for both cars. Sale starts tomorrow...you will need at least a pint more than a gallon for a fill. :thumbsup:
 

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Wonder how much for a drain and fill on the tranny!

My dealer does it for $130 (includes fluid). I did it myself for less.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I haven't had the transmission fluid changed yet but I certainly will. My coolant was replaced around 60k miles. I remember this clearly because the technician broke a plastic clamp holding the tubing on and I had to replace it with a metal hose clamp (of course after unknowingly leaking coolant on my garage floor). is there any brand you recommend for the brake fluid test strips? I do use synthetic oil and change my oil regularly. frankly I don't think I've ever replaced my spark plugs. I do inspect/change the air filters regularly. I did have the steering wheel rotor replaced as it was making a clicking sound and vibrated like crazy when I hit bumps. no more issues with that.

Something no one mentioned that I thought might help diagnose any issues was doing a blackstone engine oil test. I ordered their test kit but haven't used it yet.
 

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Another maintenance adjustment worth looking into is that the EWGA is within volt spec. Outside of that range, my shifts were rough and I was under the impression the ATF caused that. Getting the dealer to adjust the spec, and me doing a 2x DIY with SP4-M really helped a long way and my car feels much more consistent with shifts, acceleration and deceleration, especially stop and go traffic. Also worth getting the latest NGK OEM spark plugs if you are up for the second round of a spark plug change. Its a simple DIY.
 

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As far as saving up, the starter lever is a possible point of failure. Hyundai seems to be covering engine blocks up to 150K from the anecdotal stories folks are sharing on their mileage, though the official limit is 120K.
 

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I haven't had the transmission fluid changed yet but I certainly will.
Clean ATF best thing for auto trans.. some got change early with the replacement of the trans temp sensor - harness


My coolant was replaced around 60k miles.
We do coolant service every 30 on our shop service

is there any brand you recommend for the brake fluid test strips?
Test strips ?? Change every couple yr, total flush of bottle and lines and caliper cavity so we have clean clear fluid run from bleed screws...

2011, your bottle likely look black-green color,, instead of clear to light yellow tint,, get that aged baked old stuff out of there, clean fluid keep ABS unit valves clean too.. Might consider upgrade to DOT-4, offer higher boil point over std DOT-3


I do use synthetic oil and change my oil regularly.
Good move

frankly I don't think I've ever replaced my spark plugs.
Manual says 45 I think,,, we do 90,, only had a few come in and ask for change at early mileage... Visit local Hyundai dealer part counter and get the plugs there,, NGK does not market the new revised Turbo plugs aftermarket, have to buy at dealer,, part change from previous edition, they was eating plugs and cause damage sometimes

I do inspect/change the air filters regularly.

I did have the steering wheel rotor replaced as it was making a clicking sound and vibrated like crazy when I hit bumps. no more issues with that.
Rubber damper between assist motor and steering column

Something no one mentioned that I thought might help diagnose any issues was doing a blackstone engine oil test. I ordered their test kit but haven't used it yet.
Save your money
Clean fluids and regular visual go a long way
 
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