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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all -

We have a 2011 Elantra Limited with around 135k miles. This car was bought used for our oldest daughter. She drove it through college and once she was working and bought her own car, we passed it on to her little sister. It's been a great car. Other than little quirky things, we have no complaints - except for the startup noise.

Daughter 1 drove the car. That's it. She would check the oil regularly, but paid little attention to things - as long as the car was still rolling. The car is now daughter 2's baby. She keeps it clean, and reports back every rattle, squeak, and squeal. I had been taking a hands off approach, since the noise went away within a second or 2. But now a high school teacher has weighed in and told her it could be something bad. He suggested it was a muffler issue.

The noise only occurs when the car has sat idle for a while - maybe 30 minutes or so. I've recorded the startup sounds (with and without noise) and put it on a youtube video, but I can't post the link since this is my first post. If anyone is interested in listening & confirming that this is the usual startup noise, let me know & i'll try to post the link in a reply. Or maybe just the text will work here -

I've been pretty confident that it was from the timing chain tensioner bleeding off. I was just about convinced to dig into it and install a new timing chain, tensioner, and guides. But the more I read, I hear of this not really helping, and people chasing cam sprockets, phasers, and still not seeing improvement.

I did switch to a 10w30 on the last oil change, but that seems to have had no effect.

I'd like to quiet this thing down, but I don't want to chase something that can't be fixed. Any thoughts on how to proceed. or how to diagnose - or rule things out?

Thanks for any tips you can offer!

Steve
 

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Maybe the teacher should stick to their topics, cause it's not muffler. I was thinking chain or Hydraulic lash adjusters but given how fast it goes with oil pressure and it's more of a rattle, I'm leaning towards the chain. With that distance I'd think it'd be stretched and due for replacement. I think inspection of the chain and how far the tensioner is extended may be the clue to indicate if it's reached it's limit. Tensioner could be defective, probably worth looking cause if it fails and teh chain skips, the valves will meet the pistons


 

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I think you better check the cam phasers while you are in there. That's likely the culprit.
 

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Thanks for your replies. Kinda thinking that if I do tie into it, I would definitely replace the chain, guides & tensioner - just for the peace of mind. Like you said, if it skips for any reason, it will be a lot bigger mess. Yeah, it's supposed to be a "lifetime" chain, but things do wear. Not too much cost if I'll be in there anyway. Be worth it if it gives it a chance for a longer life.

grcauto - As far as checking the cam phasers - is there a procedure to test them - or signs to look for? I believe I saw in a post where you had a relative (niece?) that had to replace them. Did that resolve the issue for her?

Thanks again for the help
 

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I replaced the chain, tensioner and guides but it still had the rattle. The phasers did not lock and they were replaced which fixed it.
Make sure they lock and the pins and holes are good.
 

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I replaced the chain, tensioner and guides but it still had the rattle. The phasers did not lock and they were replaced which fixed it.
Make sure they lock and the pins and holes are good.
So, to confirm it was a phaser issue only? I have same issue.. Can I just replace the phasers only without chain, and anything else? It seems phaser replacement is very expensive like 1K +. If that is true, forget that. I'll deal with the noise as I read it dont cause issue as long as it goes away..I also changed to conventional 10W-40 oil, seemed to make it quiter but still there. I have 70K and had this noise since I bought it used with 50K.
 

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To do the phasers requires as much as to do the chain and other timing components. Do them together.
 
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