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UPDATE: I brought my 2015 Elantra in for service last week and mentioned the issue of rough steering feel and hard to keep the vehicle in a straight line on the highway. Since my vehicle is under warranty they took it upon themselves to replace the intermediate steering column. The cost would have been $1,200 as per the work order I saw at the time but did not receive. I just drove it home as my wife is the primary driver but it seemed smoother than before. I'll ask my wife what she thinks. I was going to mention the lubing of the U-joints in the column. I assume this is a common issue if they had the part in stock already?


The next issue is the rear toe still being off but within spec EVEN after the dealer performed a 4 wheel alignment. I plan to get a second opinion on the alignment printout I have and explore the shims to correct the rear toe.
What did they adjust in the rear? I was under the impression that there were no adjustments possible. Especially the rear toe.
 

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The dealer did not adjust the rear. I read that shims are the only solution to adjust rear toe on these vehicles. The only adjustment I can see WRT the alignment report is the steer ahead and centering the steering wheel.


Left Front
-0.6 Camber
4.7 Caster
0.04 Toe
Right Front
-0.6 Camber
4.5 Caster
0.05 Toe


0.09 Total Toe
0 Steer Ahead


Left Rear
-1.7 Camber
0.21 Toe
Right Rear
-1.6 Camber
0.41 Toe


Total Toe 0.62
Thrust Angle -0.10
 

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The dealer did not adjust the rear. I read that shims are the only solution to adjust rear toe on these vehicles. The only adjustment I can see WRT the alignment report is the steer ahead and centering the steering wheel.


Left Front
-0.6 Camber
4.7 Caster
0.04 Toe
Right Front
-0.6 Camber
4.5 Caster
0.05 Toe


0.09 Total Toe
0 Steer Ahead


Left Rear
-1.7 Camber
0.21 Toe
Right Rear
-1.6 Camber
0.41 Toe


Total Toe 0.62
Thrust Angle -0.10
I was just wondering, because you said "4 wheel " I assumed somethings was done to the rear. So it was a "2 wheel" alignment.
 

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The dealer did not adjust the rear. I read that shims are the only solution to adjust rear toe on these vehicles. The only adjustment I can see WRT the alignment report is the steer ahead and centering the steering wheel.


Left Front
-0.6 Camber
4.7 Caster
0.04 Toe
Right Front
-0.6 Camber
4.5 Caster
0.05 Toe


0.09 Total Toe
0 Steer Ahead


Left Rear
-1.7 Camber
0.21 Toe
Right Rear
-1.6 Camber
0.41 Toe


Total Toe 0.62
Thrust Angle -0.10
Plot your align numbers to this print -- HEHEHEHEEEE,, it in spec all right, would ya just look at them rear tires at how whooper jaw they is,, they in spec though...


 

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which is the best pressure to wheel 17 ? for better steering
32psi 35psi ..
While 32 will offer you a softer ride, there's more rolling resistance, less MPG economy. Not sure the steering is that noticeable. I've always equated PSI as the measure for ride comfort and fuel economy. But handling enters into the picture, as well.

At 35 psi, on the other hand, the tire offers less rolling resistance (think +MPG) but the ride may not be as soft. Again, with steering: maybe better, maybe not. I actually don't know.

It's a trade-off with you ultimately having to make a decision that you feel more comfortable with making. :unsure: Heck, try both. See which one YOU prefer.
 

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I had a weird clunk noise in my 2012 Elantra, the clunk rubber was broken, it was replaced. After being replaced I turned on the car, the EPS light turns on and the steering wheel seems to be locked(it moves but it takes great effort). I bought the clunk replacement at a Hyundai official dealer.

Any thoughts on what might be happening or how to repair it?

Thanks in advance
 

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I had a weird clunk noise in my 2012 Elantra, the clunk rubber was broken, it was replaced. After being replaced I turned on the car, the EPS light turns on and the steering wheel seems to be locked(it moves but it takes great effort). I bought the clunk replacement at a Hyundai official dealer.

Any thoughts on what might be happening or how to repair it?

Thanks in advance
Never heard of a "Clunk" rubber??
 

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Thank you very much Amrisoft. My 2012 Elantra had started showing the infamous sticky steering problem. It was not very bad in my case, but it was there. Initially, I thought of trading my Elantra for a new car. After I read your article, here in the forum, I ordered a bottle of 3-in -one multipurpose oil with a telescoping spout from Newegg. Amazon was very expensive. This past weekend, I run the car heater on high for about 10 min. My theory is that the outer part of the joint will heat first and it will help create openings for the oil to get in. Note that when a ring is heated, the hole gets bigger. I turned off the heater and fan, then I oiled the two joints exactly as you showed in your pictures and drawing. I also oiled the area where the top shaft slides into the lower shaft (located about halfway between the two joints). My car steering is no longer sticking and drives like when it was new: stable & precise. Thank you very much for sharing this solution. I was thinking about trading my Elantra for a new car. Now, I am going to keep it until 100k miles. By the way, my Elantra was also wearing its rear tires fast. I also fixed that problem following a solution, involving the addition of shims to the rear axle, provided by another forum member. This forum has been great for me.
 

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I think what you are describing is just a characteristic of the car. Its impossible to know without comparing to another car. Will your dealer let you test drive another Elantra by chance? It took me a few months to really get used to the steering on my Elantra on the highway but now it feels normal to me. If you already have 6k on yours then you should be used to it by now though.

No one should have to "get used to" what should be a fundamental, basic, and expected characteristic of any vehicle(truck, sedan, SUV, 777, etc):

That such vehicle will track straight, at any speed, on a straight path where no directional input is required, and when one relaxes their grip on the steering wheel(or yoke).

A feeling of binding up, or stickiness, or, steering input applied from any other source besides the operator, resulting in wandering or in over-correction by said operator, while on said straight path, is not something to have to "get used to". It is known by most anyone with even a mustard seed of common sense as a problem which needs to be addressed and corrected.

Get used to that.
 

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If he senses nothing wrong, at some point you've got to consider the possibility that it's a normal characteristic of the car's electric steering. .

It was not a "normal characteristic" of the EPS on my Aunt's 2015 Malibu lease, or on the 2016 Nissan Versa Note I rented during settlement of my wreck claim last summer.


Both possessed lighter steering than I prefer, but neither bound up or were twitchy, and were reasonably weighted center-wise, especially the Note. I found myself concentrating mostly on conversation and the music playing, and not on keeping the car in its lane.
 

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It was not a "normal characteristic" of the EPS on my Aunt's 2015 Malibu lease, or on the 2016 Nissan Versa Note I rented during settlement of my wreck claim last summer.


Both possessed lighter steering than I prefer, but neither bound up or were twitchy, and were reasonably weighted center-wise, especially the Note.

I think we just have to accept the fact that MY 2011 was Hyundai's first foray into electric steering, and they just really did a major Atlanta Falcons Super Bowl job on it! (No offense to ATL fans - I really wanted them to get a ring last Sunday) Same happened 6 years prior, when GM first employed EPS on their Epsilon-class Malibus, G6s, and Auras. Not sticking and binding as much, just MAD over-boosted, numb! I know: I drove a 2005 Bu, had the road-feel of a post office hamper, lol!
 

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First post - thanks for having me. Love all of the reading. I'm located in PEI, Canada.

I have a 2017 Santa FE XL (Limited) with 35000 km on it. I have been experiencing the 'magnet/sticky' steering intermittently, however, it mainly starts after about 40 mins of driving. I did not notice it all summer, only since about September.

I took the advice listed on here and lubricated both u-joints on the intermediate steering shaft. The first time I used 3-in-1 bearing spray which did nothing. A few days later, I had the dealership lubricate the IS shaft. Immediately upon leaving the shop the issue was still present, seems there lube job did nothing.

I just returned from a ski vacation to Quebec. After 3 hours of putting up with the magnet steering, I pulled over and lubed the joints with a bottle of 3-in-1 oil (with the plastic tube extender). I had someone move the wheel back and forth slowly. I then enjoyed 6 hours of PERFECT steering. Vehicle felt amazing. While on a 4 day vacation, short trip driving, no issues. Steering felt great, I thought I had the problem solved!

However! Upon beginning our 9 hr trip home, again, the 'magnet' steering started. I thought it might be in my head so I gave it some time... Alas, after 4 hours of driving I made a pit stop to get gas and had intentions of oiling the IS shaft again. I ended up forgetting to apply the oil and simply got back on the road - the CRAZY thing is that the steering was PERFECT the entire rest of the trip home (5 more hours).

I completely agree with(amerisoft's fix) and all of the documentation - it makes perfect sense, however, I can't explain my drive home.

Perhaps I didn't get enough oil on there - it worked for 5-7 hours of driving then 'dried up'? If the theories are true, why would a stop-start of the rig cause the problem to completely disappear?

Perplexed... Thanks for all of your info.
 

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First post - thanks for having me. Love all of the reading. I'm located in PEI, Canada.

I have a 2017 Santa FE XL (Limited) with 35000 km on it. I have been experiencing the 'magnet/sticky' steering intermittently, however, it mainly starts after about 40 mins of driving. I did not notice it all summer, only since about September.

I took the advice listed on here and lubricated both u-joints on the intermediate steering shaft. The first time I used 3-in-1 bearing spray which did nothing. A few days later, I had the dealership lubricate the IS shaft. Immediately upon leaving the shop the issue was still present, seems there lube job did nothing.

I just returned from a ski vacation to Quebec. After 3 hours of putting up with the magnet steering, I pulled over and lubed the joints with a bottle of 3-in-1 oil (with the plastic tube extender). I had someone move the wheel back and forth slowly. I then enjoyed 6 hours of PERFECT steering. Vehicle felt amazing. While on a 4 day vacation, short trip driving, no issues. Steering felt great, I thought I had the problem solved!

However! Upon beginning our 9 hr trip home, again, the 'magnet' steering started. I thought it might be in my head so I gave it some time... Alas, after 4 hours of driving I made a pit stop to get gas and had intentions of oiling the IS shaft again. I ended up forgetting to apply the oil and simply got back on the road - the CRAZY thing is that the steering was PERFECT the entire rest of the trip home (5 more hours).

I completely agree with(amerisoft's fix) and all of the documentation - it makes perfect sense, however, I can't explain my drive home.

Perhaps I didn't get enough oil on there - it worked for 5-7 hours of driving then 'dried up'? If the theories are true, why would a stop-start of the rig cause the problem to completely disappear?

Perplexed... Thanks for all of your info.
Beats me. I thought that it may be that it was the type of ELECTRIC steering in the Elantra. I no longer have that Elantra. I have a 2017 Elantra and a 2014 Santa Fe Sport, and neither of them exhibit that problem. Very pleased with both cars. So, good luck finding a permanent fix.
 

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Its the u-joints in the intermediate steering shaft (the shaft that connects the steering column to the steering rack) that's causing the binding feel.

And no, it's not normal and it's not something a driver should get used to.

The u-joints are made with cheap grease that dries out and becomes sticky especially in cold weather.

The answer is to remove the shaft and either replace it or, if the u-joints show no sign of looseness, press in a better quality grease.

Be EXTREMELY careful of 2 things.
1. Disconnect the battery so there's no chance the electric power steering will operate. The electric motor will rip your fingers off .... NOT JOKING HERE!

2. Make sure the steering wheel does not turn once the shaft is removed. If it should spin you'll ruin the clock spring. It cannot be repaired. You'll have to buy another clock spring and they're a bear to replace.
Also, you'll want the steering wheel to reconnect at the exact same spot when you reinstall the shaft or the wheel will be cocked when driving straight down the road.

Removing the shaft itself is just two bolts at each end. Best to mark the alignment before removing.

https://youtu.be/AzIsVh4jXZ0
 

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BTW... this issue can affect any Hyundai/Kia vehicle no matter the model (although I've never heard of it on Genesis). But it seems to be very hit n miss. It also seems to appear then go away for a while. The only thing I can think of is who ever supplies the shafts must be using fresh grease most of the time then at some point the quality of the grease goes bad. Just a guess.

It also affects other makes. I've heard of Toyota's Buick Chevys Nissans Acuras having this same issue. 90% of the time it's the intermediate shaft u-joints.
 

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It would certainly be nice if Hyundai would remove the u-joints and drill and tap them for proper grease fittings then give them a squeeze or 2 of synthetic grease
 
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