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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2011 Elantra with 105,000 from a dealer. Got a good deal. The body is in very good physical shape. When the snow came the traction was terrible, so I invested in 4 new Goodyear snow tires, drives great. A month or so later I broke a spring, right front, punctured the right front tire, so had to have that fixed, like 300 something dollars. Also had to replace some muffler parts, that was 600 something. Now there is a loud rattle when I go over bumps. A friend tells me it sounds like struts. That's gonna be even more money.
I'm pretty sure the timing belt will be coming due soon too.
My driving needs are mostly local with an occasional trip Accross state lines.
I like this car. It seems to me that I bought a lemon. Is it normal for these cars to have suspension problems?
I'm concerned that I will be investing too much into this car. I'm considering maybe trading it in for a newer model with say 20-30,000 miles to avoid all the expenses related to a car with this kind of mileage.
I would love to hear from experienced Hyundai Elantra users on this.
Thanks for your time.
Peter
 

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I bought a 2011 Elantra with 105,000 from a dealer.
Ok,, did you have a used car inspection done by tech / shop of your choice working for you prior to purchase ?

Got a good deal. The body is in very good physical shape.
Ok, cosmetics

When the snow came the traction was terrible, so I invested in 4 new Goodyear snow tires, drives great.
Yep, summer (dry) tires to start,, then add in the GROSS fixed align values at rear, you best to leave car sit, they drive horrible in snow and bumps.. 4 snows help get along to an extent

A month or so later I broke a spring, right front, punctured the right front tire, so had to have that fixed, like 300 something dollars.
Wrong approach,, did you visit dealer with broken spring ?? Recall for addition of silly urethane tubes to front springs,,, some that showed up was broken, so we had to do a "PA" request to get Hyundai to cover cost of spring replace in addition to recall... send me a VIN via message

Also had to replace some muffler parts, that was 600 something.
Clarify "muffler parts",, not had to replace anything of expense on UD/MD Elantras that I recall.. was TSB for rattle, weld on heat shield of center pipe crack and tin would rattle,, Hyundai come up with a cheezie band clamp kit to wrap around pipe and eliminate rattle,, retail on kit is maybe $5 at most, and they paid us for 18 minute warranty labor if it still warranty applicable

Now there is a loud rattle when I go over bumps. A friend tells me it sounds like struts. That's gonna be even more money.
Front or rear ?? Drive straight on flat road at slow speed, and rock steering wheel back - forth to rock body on suspension (tuna boat in rough water) and see if it knock,, good indication sway bar link loose at ball-socket.... will you crash from sway bar link,, no,, just noisey..

Rear, look for shock to be internal dampen fault


I'm pretty sure the timing belt will be coming due soon too.
Nope, that engine has chain,, keep clean oil in engine, chain should be of no concern

My driving needs are mostly local with an occasional trip Accross state lines.
Ok

I like this car. It seems to me that I bought a lemon.
Lemon,, naaa.. you bought a USED CAR,, it been on road, it has miles, stuff wear with miles.. Did we have a used car check by tech or shop working for you to maybe have swayed you away from high mileage used car

Is it normal for these cars to have suspension problems?
105,000 mile, I would expect the suspension to have wear,, to what degree depends on roads it was driven,, did previous owner drive like a maniac on beat up old roads that beat suspension to no end, curbs, potholes, driveway aprons at speed, farmer Joe long dirt lane at speed, baja ??

I'm concerned that I will be investing too much into this car. I'm considering maybe trading it in for a newer model with say 20-30,000 miles to avoid all the expenses related to a car with this kind of mileage.
And as this "newer car" gets miles, you back in same boat as what you start with now.. Gasoline, brakes, tires, shocks, struts, links, belt, battery, oil, coolant, wiper blades, light bulbs is all "consumable" items during life of car..

I would love to hear from experienced Hyundai Elantra users on this.
Thanks for your time.
Peter
The car is your paycheck, it get you back and forth to work.. dont need new car to get back and forth to work.. couple dollar once in while,, or nice high price car payment month to month ?

I drive a 227,000 mile GM mini van dad give me, put $1600 (employee discount at our Chevrolet store) in head gaskets a few month back,, been driving it 5yr now, only other expense I have is gasoline, couple snow tire this year, wiper blades, and oil changes, No car payment for me,, $1600 was my major expense in 5yr of drive, so I should be good for another 15yr as far as engine concerned..
 
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Discussion Starter #3
My vin # is KMHDH4AE8BU128960. Thanks for sage advise. I am just a consumer. Don't know how to fix cars, just want a reliable around town car. I like the car. Just didn't think I would have such problems so quickly. I bought the car from Carbone dealership in Yorkville, NY. A large dealership in Central New York. I don't have a mechanic I can take a car to. I go to my local Hundai dealership here in Syracuse tomorrow to have the rattle checked out. It usually only rattles when I go over bumps. No steering problems.
Thanks.
Peter
 

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My vin # is KMHDH4AE8BU128960. Thanks for sage advise. I am just a consumer. Don't know how to fix cars, just want a reliable around town car. I like the car. Just didn't think I would have such problems so quickly. I bought the car from Carbone dealership in Yorkville, NY. A large dealership in Central New York. I don't have a mechanic I can take a car to. I go to my local Hundai dealership here in Syracuse tomorrow to have the rattle checked out. It usually only rattles when I go over bumps. No steering problems.
Thanks.
Peter

I see some nice WARRANTY claims in claim history --

67,623 -- ENGINE ASSY-SUB (NU ENGINE) -- 06/15/2015

47,978 -- TRANSMISSION ASSY-AUTO (A6GF) -- 09/24/2014

35,566 -- A/T CHANGE LEVER ASSY --01/29/2014

35,565 -- SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY-REAR (LH) -- 11/17/2013
 

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I traded in my 2003 Sentra with 91k miles and my 2009 Accent with 101k miles on Dec 28 for a 2014 Elantra with 87k miles.
I'm hoping for better luck than yours.
So far I've only had to replace the rear brake pads and have the rear rotors machined for $165.

I do my own oil & filter changes.
You should too, if possible and if not, at least have someone change the oil 2x a year or so with a good quality 5w20 or 5w30 oil and filter.

Also make sure you have a good clean air filter in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, my saga goes on with my 2011 Elantra. I took the car into dealership with check engine light on and they scanned it and found codep0456 evaporate emission system leak detected. Found canister close valve and purge valve at fault. Technician replaced the canister close valve and purge valve. $261.33.
They did 3 open campaigns: 951, 137 & 133.
Then I had to have my clinking sound looked into. Another front end problem! They found and replaced both front ball joints and both front swaybar links. That was 430.10 on my credit card. My question is this: was the open campaign on front end part responsible for ball joints and or sway bar links?
I like this car. right now I have close to 2000.00 of debt in a car that I bought for 5500. It had 103,000 miles when I bought it. Looked good and sounded fine at the time last summer. Sbr711 is a great guy to give me such good advise. I'm wounded in my wallet! It's an around town car with the occasional trip. What do you think?
 

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They did 3 open campaigns: 951, 137 & 133.

My question is this: was the open campaign on front end part responsible for ball joints and or sway bar links?
951 - PCM update to fatten mix slightly to reduce Catalyst output of NOX (lean post cat)
--> Description:
This bulletin provides instructions related to an Electronic Control Module (ECM) software update to revise the fuel volume control logic. The ECM update is only emissions related. The update is for the applicable models listed below with SULEV emissions certifications only.


137 - ABS / ESC scan and replace YAW sensor if specified DTC present, update ABS / ESC module
-->Description:
On certain 2011 to 2012 model year Elantras (MD/UD), the Yaw Rate/”G” sensor may send a signal that may result in one or more of the following:
1. Inadvertent ESC system intervention,
2. Illumination of the “ESC” indicator lamp in the instrument cluster.
3. Diagnostic codes C1282 and/or C1283 (for the yaw sensor) stored in the ESC Control Module.
ESC system intervention may include inadvertent brake application to one or more wheels and/or reduced engine torque, both of which can increase the risk of a crash. This bulletin describes the procedure to check for diagnostic codes, replace the Yaw/”G” sensor if necessary, and update the hydraulic unit ECU (HECU) software.


133 - add urethane tube to front coil spring
-->Description:
On certain 2011 Sonatas (YF) and Elantras (MD), corrosion can build up at the front coil springs, resulting in possible fracture near the base. A fractured spring can make contact with the tire, potentially resulting in a tire puncture and increasing the risk of a crash. This bulletin describes the procedure to install urethane tubes over the front coil springs to prevent a tire puncture.



None of these labor would have wore out your front suspension,, 2 of them is control module update done using GDS via DLC at dash

The spring tube is simply adding tube to coil spring

BTW,, is it you that replaced coil spring prior to me telling you that you had open recall ??? DID you take up the broken spring concern with dealer in attempt to get re-imburse for replacement ??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Broken Spring Concern

I am in the process now of sending in bill for spring and tire to Hyundai Headquarters for their review. Thanks!
 
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