Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

Registered
Joined
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm at Lost with the Sonata... This car never gave me any type of issue before. Before the oil change the car was running currently great and no issues at all. I did the new oil change and filter on the Sonata and have it run for a good 20-25min before I turn off. Left it off for 10-15min for the clean up around the car, old oil, and etc. Once that was done, I took the car out for the test drive. As I start the sonata up, their was nothing wrong with it. I drove out the block to the main Street, as I drove off, the car shuts off on me... I look? The dashboard gauges all came on so now the car was rolling and I was able to pull out to the side. I asked what happened?? So I restart the car up but wouldn't start I try a few times and the starter was smoking and could see the smoke coming out of the hood. I was able to locate the smoke which is where the starter was at. Now I was thinking maybe the starter was burned out or something so I went to exchange for a new one. Put the New one in and try to start it up... The sonata try to start but it wouldn't start. The 1st start seem like a weak battery that try to start. However my battery is a few months new and I try jumped starting with my truck and I charge my battery overnight. My multimeter state's the battery is at 12v-13v and at cold start. There is enough power to get the car going. But it's not like I said it feels like a weak battery but it's not. The 2nd to 3rd try the dashboard gauges seem to dim and you can smell the smoke from the starter so I stopped trying to turn it on. I've even checked all the small, big fused the 40-50 amp and they're all good. No burned or broken fuse. What could cause this type of Problem. I'm currently at lost. Help is appreciated at this point and beyond. 馃馃槶馃槯馃槺
 

Registered
Joined
2,318 Posts
I suggest you have the car scanned for any logged fault codes first. If none then it may be the crankshaft position sensor but I am guessing at this stage. Scan first.
 

Registered
Joined
11,926 Posts
What could cause this type of Problem.
So the engine is cranking over slowly like the battery is discharged but it's not. I think we can assume the power supply is good since you've recharged the battery and tried jumping it from your truck too. I also think we can assume the starter motor is OK since that was replaced, but there is smoke coming from the new one too.

What could cause that? Two things spring to mind :
A high resistance in the starter circuit would cause the wiring to over heat (smoke) and would cause the engine to crank over slowly.

A partially seized engine would be difficult/slow to crank, and the higher than normal load on the starter circuit might cause the starter and the wiring to over heat (smoke) due to the higher than normal current flow in the circuit.

Have you tried measuring the battery voltage during crank? It would normally be about 10V. What do you get?
 

Registered
Joined
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
So the engine is cranking over slowly like the battery is discharged but it's not. I think we can assume the power supply is good since you've recharged the battery and tried jumping it from your truck too. I also think we can assume the starter motor is OK since that was replaced, but there is smoke coming from the new one too.

What could cause that? Two things spring to mind :
A high resistance in the starter circuit would cause the wiring to over heat (smoke) and would cause the engine to crank over slowly.

A partially seized engine would be difficult/slow to crank, and the higher than normal load on the starter circuit might cause the starter and the wiring to over heat (smoke) due to the higher than normal current flow in the circuit.

Have you tried measuring the battery voltage during crank? It would normally be about 10V. What do you get?
Ok just now today(6:45am) I was able to get the car to start with a few turn. I ran for less than 20 sec than it shut off by itself. 2nd try ran for almost a min but it seems like the engine has a shake or a bad idle, but could this be the oil I'm using that is causing this to be like this... I usual used standard Pennzoil 0w-20 with stp oil treatment for the sonata but this time I used the Castrol Magnatec 0w-20 to try out alone with the Marvel mystery oil treatment. I put half inside the engine and half with the gas. The outside State... It can be with the oil and gas. I'm going to flash it out and put the Pennzoil oil in which I already bought yesterday.
 

Registered
Joined
1,558 Posts
0W-20 is already thin, and you're thinning it again with MMO? Not good, as said, I think your cylinders are scored or the crank bearings (partial seized).
 

Registered
Joined
150 Posts
I never use anything but the recommended oil in my vehicles. The manual says I can use 5W20 or 5W30, and the oil cap says 5W20. So I'm currently using Full Synthetic 5W20.
 

Registered
Joined
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I changed out the oil and it started up okay... The engine sounds normal but after a breeze moment it sounds like it needs air. I'm thinking that the air and gas inside the chamber is not mixing up right. I open the high pressure fuel pump lines and it wasn't smelling like gasoline. It smelled more of that mixed treatment that I pour inside a gas tank. Since it's late and dark I'm waiting for the morning so I can flash or drain out the mixed gas. To see if there a change. I'll keep everyone that post/comments in hear how it goes with the exchange gas.
 

Registered
Joined
3,865 Posts
0W20 ...
0 means little to no viscosity when start up which is great for cold start up
(if you live in a cold climate)
The W stands for winter conditions

After getting to normal operating temp, it should flow like 20 weight oil

What does the cap say on the valve cover??

MMO in the oil could have cause gunk to loosen and block oil passages????
 

Registered
Joined
1,944 Posts
0w is a pumping & cranking test @ -40 and -35c. There is a spec and its a pass/fail even though close enough is good for SAE/API/ILSAC.
The W doesn't stand for anything and is just part of the oil grade prefix to differentiate from a grade without a "w". For example, 20w and 20 are two different grade specs. 20w-20 meets both.
SAE is still voting on whether to call the "w" something but votes are tied for: winter, whoa, weight, wonky, wacky, wild, wobbly, wretched, and wondrous.

Oil cap is meaningless? What does it say in the owners manual?

My DMM says 12.65 and doesn't say between 12v-13v.

Who the hel! runs an engine for 20-25 minutes after a DIY oil change? Either take it for a ride or run it a minute and check for level/leaks....

Seems too much like a bogus thread. So, I just tossed a pint of marvel in the gas and another in the oil and nothing happened to my Sonata. Had to test the MMO caused the problem theory. Still driving it. And, I am even filled with a 20 grade synthetic oil. Thin oil? Don't worry..... some driving styles push fuel dilution over 5% and we all know how brick reliable these Theta-II's are.
 

Registered
Joined
3,865 Posts
0w is a pumping & cranking test @ -40 and -35c. There is a spec and its a pass/fail even though close enough is good for SAE/API/ILSAC.
Sounds like cold winter like conditions???

The W doesn't stand for anything and is just part of the oil grade prefix to differentiate from a grade without a "w". For example, 20w and 20 are two different grade specs. 20w-20 meets both.
SAE is still voting on whether to call the "w" something but votes are tied for: winter, whoa, weight, wonky, wacky, wild, wobbly, wretched, and wondrous.
The two different numbers are to show that the oil is multi-grade
One at cold conditions and the other at normal driving conditions
As for the "W" ...
I say winter cause it is easier to understand what the first number is about
And makes it easier to remember

If the oil only has one number one it then it is a single grade oil
Its flow will be fairly consistent through out the operating temps
Of course, much colder temps means it will flow slower
And much higher temps means it will flow faster

Oil cap is meaningless? What does it say in the owners manual?
Usually the same as on the oil cap ... lol

My DMM says 12.65 and doesn't say between 12v-13v.
My analog meter says between 12 volts and 13 volts
Actually it does say anything, it is just how one reads it ... lol

Who the hel! runs an engine for 20-25 minutes after a DIY oil change? Either take it for a ride or run it a minute and check for level/leaks....

Seems too much like a bogus thread. So, I just tossed a pint of marvel in the gas and another in the oil and nothing happened to my Sonata. Had to test the MMO caused the problem theory. Still driving it. And, I am even filled with a 20 grade synthetic oil. Thin oil? Don't worry..... some driving styles push fuel dilution over 5% and we all know how brick reliable these Theta-II's are.
You're probably right. I never had a problem when I used MMO.
But, never know for sure until you take it apart???
 

Registered
Joined
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well it's starts up fine but once I give it gas it dies out right after fuel starts to flow through the mixer. I'm not sure what is causing this problem but it seems like a can hear a knock on the block. But at higher rpm like close to 4k that when it dies out. I can put in gear and it's fine but like I said if I pressed a little on gas, not a whole lot it dies out
 

Registered
Joined
503 Posts
Well it's starts up fine but once I give it gas it dies out right after fuel starts to flow through the mixer. I'm not sure what is causing this problem but it seems like a can hear a knock on the block. But at higher rpm like close to 4k that when it dies out. I can put in gear and it's fine but like I said if I pressed a little on gas, not a whole lot it dies out
Sounds like your Engine is gone to me.
 

Registered
Joined
150 Posts
The W doesn't stand for anything and is just part of the oil grade prefix to differentiate from a grade without a "w". For example, 20w and 20 are two different grade specs. 20w-20 meets both.
SAE is still voting on whether to call the "w" something but votes are tied for: winter, whoa, weight, wonky, wacky, wild, wobbly, wretched, and wondrous.
Well now I don't buy that for a second. Why pick "W" if it's not meant to stand for anything? They had 25 other letters of the alphabet they could have used, AND symbols like a dash, slash, etc.

That's like saying "XLT" didn't stand for anything. Sure, they just randomly picked those three letters, like I'll believe that.
 

Registered
Joined
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I was able to drive but on by letting it rolled without gas. If I gas it'll go than die. The check engine light finally came on. It P1326 and it says Manufacturer Control. Now the RPM will not go over 2000. So I'm thinking this could be the bottom block. Which is the bearing or a rod. Now I have to take it in. I'm not sure if it's common for these 2.4l and does it fall under the recall. I have to check my recalls to see if there are any repairs made during or after I bought the car.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
About this Discussion
19 Replies
9 Participants
DarrenBach
Hyundai Forums
Hyundai Forum is a community for all Hyundai Owners to talk and learn all about their favorite subject: Hyundai cars from the Sonata to the Elantra and even the new Kona!
Full Forum Listing
Top