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Discussion Starter #1
so i have done lots of plug swaps on lots of different cars in my past. This one seems easy but there is this black rail type thing covering the 2 rightmost plugs on my 2010 blue. I think I just remove the few screws that are holding it in place but i looked at the fsm for 2009, and that black rail thing is not there. must be new for 2010???

anyhow, any ideas on removing it??

also, i tried to remove one plug to see what type it is so i can buy tomorrow and it is very tight and would not budge and I didn't try to force it. engine is warm. i am thinking wait till morning as the metal should contract. i suppose best to do this with engine totally cold right???
 

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Aluminum heads, so letting it cool down fully is a good thing.  They are in there pretty tight and it is a little scary breaking them loose!

My '06 has a plastic channel over two of the cylinders as well.  IIRC it just needs a couple bolts removed and it will lift out of the way enough for you to get in there to do your thing.

Plugs are NGK BKR5ES-11 or some Champion plug which I don't recall the number.  On hmaservice somewhere in the ignition system section it has the OEM plug numbers listed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks!!!

i plan on pulling one out in the am to see what kind it is then get some on the way home tomorrow.

this reminds me, i have to do the plugs in my xterra soon. 80k on it and they are good till 100k but 100k!!! worry about them suckers being hard to remove...
 

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QUOTE (zavetsky @ Aug 24 2010, 10:54 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=351781
this reminds me, i have to do the plugs in my xterra soon. 80k on it and they are good till 100k but 100k!!! worry about them suckers being hard to remove...
Same worries here with my wife's car! It's got 65k on it but it's had the same iridium plugs in that it left the factory with 8 years ago. Not looking forward to changing plugs in that one. :grin:
 

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Well, you could loosen them and re-torque them some wheres about 1/2 life... then it would not be much concern for plugs being siezed..

Why not step up to IRIDIUM for replacements, they'll wear better than the platinums by far..
 

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QUOTE (bloodninja @ Aug 25 2010, 10:44 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=351867
Pretty sure our car comes with iridium plugs.
Nope, we've got plain ol' copper from the factory...  Hence the 30,000 / 15,000 mile severe condition service life (iridiums last much longer than that.) :mellow:  On the flip side, the OEM-spec plugs are $2/each instead of $10 or whatever for iridiums. :thumbsup:
 

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Plugs are easier to remove from a hot aluminum cylinder head. Aluminum expands greater with heat than the steel threads of the plug. You do need to have the head cooled when torquing the plugs however.This is to achieve proper torque when tightening. And, always use a torque wrench and do it properly. The worst thing is to snap a plug in the cylinder head!

For those of you with long mileage/time between plug changes on your vehicles go ahead and heat the engine and then remove the plugs...much easier.

Paul.
 

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:liebe011:   Never thought about heating it up a little before removing. Makes sense though.  Not sure why I was always in the school of thought to not remove or install plugs on aluminum heads when the engine wasn't cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
every reputable site i visit states to wait till the engine cools to room temp before removing plugs. Threads are easier to screw up on way out if engine is warm. I don't know, I don't remember being too picky on the temps on my other cars. Thinking back, the only car i have changed plugs on that could have aluminum heads is a 2003 neon. did that lots of times no issues but can't remember if i let it cool. probably did it first thing in am on weekend though if i had to guess.
so it would have been cool.
 

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QUOTE (zavetsky @ Aug 26 2010, 01:34 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=352105
every reputable site i visit states to wait till the engine cools to room temp before removing plugs. Threads are easier to screw up on way out if engine is warm. I don't know, I don't remember being too picky on the temps on my other cars. Thinking back, the only car i have changed plugs on that could have aluminum heads is a 2003 neon. did that lots of times no issues but can't remember if i let it cool. probably did it first thing in am on weekend though if i had to guess.
so it would have been cool.
They tell you to wait till it cools so you don't burn yourself, no other reason. I'd go ahead and work the engine to full operating temperature just to crack the plugs loose, then let it cool off to replace plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
all done. took me longer than normal as i lost one of those plastic things that go over the new plugs while in the little box to keep the tip from changing gap. ;-)


i thought maybe i left it in the hole ontop the plug as they are clear but right after i undid everything except pulling the coils back up, i found it against the wall in the garage. ;-)

i had some trouble also with the little rubber piece in my socket remaining on the plug when i tightened down. it took me a couple minutes per cylinder to remove it each time and put back in the coket. next time i will have a new socket. ;-)

i torqued at 17 ft/lbs on cold engine, no anti-sieze as I figure I change them every 15k so why bother.

I also didn't use dialectic on the plug but then i figured, well, every 30k or so I will. SHould be good? As some remains from last time/factory install.
 

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QUOTE (hoosieraccent @ Aug 25 2010, 10:31 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=351881
Nope, we've got plain ol' copper from the factory...  Hence the 30,000 / 15,000 mile severe condition service life (iridiums last much longer than that.) :mellow:  On the flip side, the OEM-spec plugs are $2/each instead of $10 or whatever for iridiums. :thumbsup:

thats pretty wild that your care came with copper plugs mine came NGK platinum plugs off the lot i wonder why they are diff kinda odd
 

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Discussion Starter #15
maybe because mine is the "blue" mode?? I seem to remember, when i bought my 2000 accent, it had 100k mile plugs in it too.
 
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