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Discussion Starter #1
2010 SF Limited, about 46,000 KM.

Heard a grinding noise coming from the back of the truck today. First thing I thought to look at was the rotors. They looked warped/wavy and were really hot. I'm worried that the pads are used up and its metal on metal, really looks like rotor damage. I'm confused by this... 1) I get a safety inspection done every time i'm in for service (6km), no service rep has ever warned me about my pads. 2) Aren't squealers supposed to warn the driver of low pads? 3) Pads wear out faster in the front than they do in the back. How could the back pads be used up already? The front looks fine.

So if my back calipers are seized, or the e-brake line froze, then i'm driving with the back brakes engaged full time. This should not have happened to a truck so young. Do I have a warranty case here? Thoughts please, thanks.
 

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It is a requirement on these vehicles when operated in salty winter enviroments to have the calipers lubricated to prevent them from siezing from rust. If this is done then the rears outlive the fronts usually. If not the brakes can go in as little as 10,000 miles. There is no warranty for this if it is due to failure to service the brakes. If you were going to a Hyundai dealer for service and they did not perform this service I would
have them do the brakes for free.
 

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Not just clean and lube the caliper slide pins, pull the stainless pad retainers and scrape all of the crap out from under them as well. Get a little rust under them and what little tolerance was provided for the pads to move is gone instantly when the rust pushes up the retainers.

In fact, there's a better than even chance it was the rust under the retainers that caused his problem vs. the calipers being stuck. Still -- both need to be maintained.

TSB attached.
 

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I follow the service schedule to the letter, but I don't ask for 'extra' work. Would they have been lubing and maintaining the rear brakes during normal services? IE ... is that part of their routine for scheduled services?
 

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I follow the service schedule to the letter, but I don't ask for 'extra' work. Would they have been lubing and maintaining the rear brakes during normal services? IE ... is that part of their routine for scheduled services?
No, lubing the rear brakes is not included in normal service. The manual says "inspect" brakes, and if you're refusing extra work then the brakes are not being lubed. The extra work normally runs about $140 per axle.

Not all brakes need lubing... mostly just those driven in road salt.
 

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I follow the service schedule to the letter, but I don't ask for 'extra' work. Would they have been lubing and maintaining the rear brakes during normal services? IE ... is that part of their routine for scheduled services?
This is a very well known problem on your vehicle. If you had read this forum for any length of time you would have known about it. If you go to a Hyundai shop for service- they should have warned you to get that serviced. Lots of people on this forum do it themselves yearly and save the expense- its all about the rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To be clear, I have never refused any extra work, they have never offered it. At no point have they ever notified me that my pad were low, that they needed lubing or anything related to brakes.
 

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And your posted location of "Quebec, Canada" tells us why! Definitely a candidate climate for this sort of thing. Wish the OP would tell us where he is. I'm guessing it's not somewhere in Nevada or Arizona (or even Colorado).
 

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We charge 1hr labor at reduced labor rate (maintanance) for removal of rear pad mounting and pads, remove fitting shims and clean mounting of rust that pinching fit shims and pads..
Quick knock rust off pads' ears, a film of lube, and re-assemble..

We just give wheel a rotate for feel if pads dragging or not when in for oil change..

Wear sensors... majority of time they not make any sounds,, once in great while we get customer that states they hear sound when rolling and stop when pedal pressure applied.. sometimes they just fall off from rust
 

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I'm in Ottawa, Canada. Got the word from the technician just now. All 4 wheels, pads totally gone, rotors destroyed. I asked them 4 questions as to why there was no indication of pad wear.

Q. Why didn't the squealers become audible?
A. I was told the pad wear occurred on the outside pads. Apparently the squealers are on the inner pads. He could not explain the odd wear pattern.

Q. Why wasn't I told my pads were low after my inspections?
A. Break inspections are only done at 24,000 km and 48,000 km. I'm at the 46,5000 km mark. They pretty much ignore the breaks until that point. If Canada is so terrible on the vehicle, seems wrong that they ignore the breaks if they are prone to early wear.

Q. Why was my stopping power not reduced as a result of having no pads left?
A. No answer.

Q. What does Hyundai do to help notify users of brake wear?
A. "It's not up to us or the truck to monitor your brakes."

While it may be true, that last one struck a nerve. This is my 6th vehicle. It was dead simple in all my previous cars to tell when the brakes were gone. One indication or another way always present. They will sell me a car in a weather heavy environment, but not monitor them or offer extra maintenance. They will use pads that have squealers, but those squealers won't squeal because the outer pads wear first.

They want $2000 to replace all rotors, pads, calipers, alignment and labor. Feeling pretty sick at the moment.
 

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Why do they want to replace the calipers???? Pads and rotors on all 4 corners are no more than $600 in parts
Called them back about this. They corrected themselves, they are not doing new calipers, but there are replacing/fixing something to do with the e-brake. They want $1,075 for the four corners pads/rotors/e-brake fix. Seems high.

Add to that a service 4, wheel alignment and labor, which brings it up to almost $2k.
 

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I'd be at a quality independent shop to have the brakes evaluated and replaced. One would hope they'd be familiar with Santa Fe's, but be sure to print and take that TSB to them so they understand the nature of the issue you'll be dealing with down the road.

Did the dealer provide ANY indication as to why the early (relatively speaking) wear issue? Was there indeed rust and crud built up under the pad retainers? Did they even look?

Meanwhile, and especially if they toss salt around in your area, be sure to do at least an annual inspection and cleaning of those surfaces we discussed earlier.
 

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Called them back about this. They corrected themselves, they are not doing new calipers, but there are replacing/fixing something to do with the e-brake.
From the sound of it, you would be best to get a complete written estimate indicating what the parts being used, and prices, and each labor operation they intend to perform..

Pads (F)
Rotors (F)
Labor charge (F)
---------------

Pads (R)
Rotors (R)
Labor Charge (R)

--------------------------------

What we intend to do to the E-Brake, proper description of what is being repaired/replaced for what reason





They want $1,075 for the four corners pads/rotors/e-brake fix. Seems high.
Yes

Add to that a service 4, wheel alignment and labor, which brings it up to almost $2k.
What is a "service 4" ? What all is done there ?

We only $69 (USD) for 4 wheel align
 

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I'm in Ottawa, Canada. Got the word from the technician just now. All 4 wheels, pads totally gone, rotors destroyed. I asked them 4 questions as to why there was no indication of pad wear.

Q. Why didn't the squealers become audible?
A. I was told the pad wear occurred on the outside pads. Apparently the squealers are on the inner pads. He could not explain the odd wear pattern.

Q. Why wasn't I told my pads were low after my inspections?
A. Break inspections are only done at 24,000 km and 48,000 km. I'm at the 46,5000 km mark. They pretty much ignore the breaks until that point. If Canada is so terrible on the vehicle, seems wrong that they ignore the breaks if they are prone to early wear.

Q. Why was my stopping power not reduced as a result of having no pads left?
A. No answer.

Q. What does Hyundai do to help notify users of brake wear?
A. "It's not up to us or the truck to monitor your brakes."

While it may be true, that last one struck a nerve. This is my 6th vehicle. It was dead simple in all my previous cars to tell when the brakes were gone. One indication or another way always present. They will sell me a car in a weather heavy environment, but not monitor them or offer extra maintenance. They will use pads that have squealers, but those squealers won't squeal because the outer pads wear first.

They want $2000 to replace all rotors, pads, calipers, alignment and labor. Feeling pretty sick at the moment.

Replacing pads/rotors should not be particularly difficult to do yourself. From rockauto new pads will run you $60 for Wagner Thermoquiets. Centric rotors should cost you $220 for front/rear. 1 bottle of DOT3 pennzoil brake fluid will cost you $8, 1 can of brake parts cleaner will cost you $4, 1 tube of syl glyde will cost you about $7, and 1 bottle of CRC disc brake quiet (which you don't really even need) is about $5.

In other words the parts/supplies you need to completely replace all pads, rotors, clean everything, lube everything, AND flush/fill your fluid will cost you a bit over $300 to do. Unless there is something tricky about getting rotors off a Santa Fe I can't imagine it would take a mechanic with a lift more than 2 hours to do the job. If Mechanics are charging $110/hr these days that is another $220, for $520 + tax total cost. $2000 is absurd.

I will freely admit I have never changed rotors on the Santa Fe, and some vehicles have rear rotors that are a super pain to deal with due to the way the E brake is setup. Perhaps someone here with more experience can chime in to state if that is the case on the Santa Fe?
 

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Perhaps someone here with more experience can chime in to state if that is the case on the Santa Fe?

No rocket surgery to replace pads and rotors on the CM Santa Fe.. just be sure to clean rust off the hub faces so new rotors sit flat when installed to minimize rotor face run-out..

Remove rust under the fitting shims on the mounts so rust dont lift shims and pinch pads tight in place that they dont move freely, wipe old lube off slides, apply new clean lube, and assemble.

Nothing special for hand brake out back, tiny shoe in drum (rotor hat), rotor slide right off, put new back on.. feel free to adjust shoes up to drum to hold, then back off 1 or 2 click to allow rotor to rotate free of shoes.
 
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