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I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD which I suspect the AWD is failing. This is my 3rd viscous coupler (2 previous replacements under warranty). I am now out of warranty and am not willing to replace it again because I am sure it will fail.
I remember a tech had disabled my AWD in the past while waiting for a part to arrive. Does anybody know how to disable the AWD? I do remember it was from underneath the vehicle.
The reason I want to disable it is because it is intermittently delivering power to the rear wheels and it bucks and kicks when accelerating.

Thanks,
 

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I have the driveshaft unbolted on my 06 Santy right now.
Just in process of changing out front U-joint. Runs ok without shaft, but it's a different set up,than yours.

I believe with viscous coupling units the silicon semi liquid thickens up and creates friction when you don't want it, binding etc.

The only way I was able to disable it on jeeps was dropping drive shaft, usually a 15 minute job; match Mark joints before shaft removal with paint marker , in case you put it back in later.
 

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Santa Fe 2006-2012 doesn't have a viscous coupling - it has an electrically operated friction clutch.

Disconnecting it is simply a matter of disconnecting, or permanently connecting the right signal wire.
 

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Santa Fe 2006-2012 doesn't have a viscous coupling - it has an electrically operated friction clutch.

Disconnecting it is simply a matter of disconnecting, or permanently connecting the right signal wire.
You sure?
The 2010 got a different engine and transmission than what the 2009 and 2008 has for example. I am presume the 2008 doesn't have one. I researched some part sources showing the area without any success in finding one in the 2008 I have. There were differences in the newer years though.
 

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You sure?
The 2010 got a different engine and transmission than what the 2009 and 2008 has for example. I am presume the 2008 doesn't have one. I researched some part sources showing the area without any success in finding one in the 2008 I have. There were differences in the newer years though.
Yep!

The 2006-2009 have different engines/gearboxes to the 2010-2012 but the 4WD models share the same prop-shaft, 4wd clutch and rear differential - it's a Borg-Warner ITM-3e system also use by the Porche 911 4wd.

The 2010-onwards Kia Sorento and 2013-onwards Santa Fe use a completely different 4WD system from Magna.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Santa Fe 2006-2012 doesn't have a viscous coupling - it has an electrically operated friction clutch.

Disconnecting it is simply a matter of disconnecting, or permanently connecting the right signal wire.
Thanks RT. Do you happen to know which wire or connection can be disconnected. I saw the tech approach it from the driver side, and he made it look easy :). I know its a 20 second job, but getting the correct wire is the issue.

Thanks,
 

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Single 2 wire connector at top of viscious coupling,, cant miss the pigtail... you unplug it, how you plan to keep elements from damaging to open connector ?? Better off to just remove drive shaft and drive as 2WD..
 

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I have a 2010 Santa Fe AWD which I suspect the AWD is failing. This is my 3rd viscous coupler (2 previous replacements under warranty).
I'm pretty sure you're the first person we've heard here that has gone through so many of these. One isn't common. Two is rare. Three??? Perhaps it's just really rotten luck, but I really hate to buy into any 'bad luck' story without considering an underlying cause first.

First, can you tell us about the mode of failure of the first two, and the attendant symptoms?

Is there anything at all unique about your driving conditions? Do you drive often where the AWD would likely kick in?

Tell us about the history of your tires ... when swapped for new ones, and at what points in time, and with which tires. I'd be very interested to hear what's on the vehicle NOW.
 

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Good points, something is going on that shouldn't taking them out. Even out of warranty approaching the dealer as to why is not out of line. They'd be surprised as well I am sure.
 

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Hey, wait a minute. "The reason I want to disable it is because it is intermittently delivering power to the rear wheels and it bucks and kicks when accelerating." Are you sure 'it' is what's causing this?

The 2010 tranny is notorious for producing symptoms as you have described. Check the placard for your build date. Prior to August 2010? Have you and/or your dealer talked about the transmission and the known sticky solenoid issues on earlier builds? We have an entire zillion page thread on that topic around here somewhere.
 

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LOL


He might have trouble getting the replacement tranny now. Oh well...that doesn't sound like the coupling to me either.
 

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I have a 2010 Santa Fe Sport AWD.

Question: Can I remove the coupler and still drive the vehicle? I would obviously need to take the drive shaft out, too, but am wondering if the coupler and differential share the same fluid? It looks like you can just un-bolt the coupler from the front of the differential.
 

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I have a 2010 Santa Fe Sport AWD.

Question: Can I remove the coupler and still drive the vehicle? I would obviously need to take the drive shaft out, too, but am wondering if the coupler and differential share the same fluid? It looks like you can just un-bolt the coupler from the front of the differential.
The coupler is a dry clutch, electrically operated - no fluid involved - but I'd imagine that removing the coupler would let all the oil out of the diff.
 

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I'm pretty sure you're the first person we've heard here that has gone through so many of these. One isn't common. Two is rare. Three??? Perhaps it's just really rotten luck, but I really hate to buy into any 'bad luck' story without considering an underlying cause first.

First, can you tell us about the mode of failure of the first two, and the attendant symptoms?

Is there anything at all unique about your driving conditions? Do you drive often where the AWD would likely kick in?

Tell us about the history of your tires ... when swapped for new ones, and at what points in time, and with which tires. I'd be very interested to hear what's on the vehicle NOW.
I've got a 2010 that they replaced the AWD coupler at about 32K km last year. Dealer said the seal was gone. 13 months later, 54K km and the same symptoms have come back. (Clunk sometimes when accelerating from stop, while turning left).

I had stock tires on them, rotated on schedule. One of the rear tires got a key through it, so replaced all four tires with brand new nokians a about 2500 km ago.

Car is out of warranty now, and am looking at $2000 to fix. Don't want to do that unless I can figure out what is causing these couplers to burn out.

Any thoughts?
 

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As a question comes to my mind;
The car will get more MPG when Disabling the 4WD (By assuming it can be disabled mechanically or Electrically) ?
Or
The car will get a poor Performance because it will reduce the power share of the front wheel?
 

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I've got a 2010 that they replaced the AWD coupler at about 32K km last year. Dealer said the seal was gone. 13 months later, 54K km and the same symptoms have come back. (Clunk sometimes when accelerating from stop, while turning left).

I had stock tires on them, rotated on schedule. One of the rear tires got a key through it, so replaced all four tires with brand new nokians a about 2500 km ago.

Car is out of warranty now, and am looking at $2000 to fix. Don't want to do that unless I can figure out what is causing these couplers to burn out.

Any thoughts?
I feel your pain. I'm at 115,000 kms and on my 3rd coupler. I just paid $2500 for the last one a few weeks ago. The last replacement ony lasted 14 months. I called Hyundai Canada to complain about it and got nowhere. I have put new tires on this spring and rotate every 6 months. The last deign they instaelled looks different so hopefully its a keeper.

My wife has a 2011 Sorento with 112,000 kms and no issues at all with hers.
 

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I feel your pain. I'm at 115,000 kms and on my 3rd coupler. I just paid $2500 for the last one a few weeks ago. The last replacement ony lasted 14 months. I called Hyundai Canada to complain about it and got nowhere. I have put new tires on this spring and rotate every 6 months. The last deign they instaelled looks different so hopefully its a keeper.

My wife has a 2011 Sorento with 112,000 kms and no issues at all with hers.
Do you have the part number that they installed this time? I had read that in 2011 they had updated the part, I assume I got the updated one in 2014, maybe it was updated again?
 

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I will get it right off the part on the car. Unfortunately it will take a few weeks as its in the body shop getting repaired after hitting a deer.

It actually has a Kia sticker on it!
 

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They had a good unit on the 2008/2009 but must have switched to a cheaper design which many appear to have had trouble with. Typically any part installed by the dealer carries a 1 year warranty on its own. I would be more that upset if that happened.
 
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