Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so this accent has been through 1 kid and now on it's way to the next. If I had my way, we would never have gotten this car and would have gotten as solid 3.8 pontiac. I digress...

Bank 1 02 sensor reading bad from code. Replaced, still shows faulty. Thought the new sensor bad, replaced with a better one, still throws code. Could this possibly be the downstream sensor that is bad??

Right side (passenger) wheel speed sensor failure. Remove, replaced, still shows bad. I did not get to clean the ring much. I will look into that soon. Thoughts?

Both inner fender wells are cracked and blown out. I have new ones, just need to take tires off and replace them. This is when I'll look at the ring for the wheel speed sensor that was replaced.

Awful groaning when turning. I have new outter tie rods as it only makes sound when turning (not going over bumps or while driving straight). Could still be a ball joint but I hope not. Could also be inner tie rods.

Not to hate on hyundai but my 2006 grand prix 3.8l supercharged is much better built. They have a few known issues to watch for but other than that they are built solid. The one thing I will say about hyundai that appears to be done right on this car is bolt on ball joints.

This are is beat up some but it still manages to pull 29mpg even with that faulty o2 code. That blows my mind.

This car is 80k on it. I'm believe the timing belt should be replaced shortly. Is that a nightmare? Take cover off, mark cogs, replace.... boom? I assume not. I do most of my own vehicle maintenance as you can tell. My wife's 06 grand prix, my 06 grand prix, my 2004 silveardo, and of course this hyundai. Son's car is newer than all of ours! (but mine are in amazing shape :) )

Thanks all in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Hey guys, so this accent has been through 1 kid and now on it's way to the next. If I had my way, we would never have gotten this car and would have gotten as solid 3.8 pontiac. I digress...

Bank 1 02 sensor reading bad from code. Replaced, still shows faulty. Thought the new sensor bad, replaced with a better one, still throws code. Could this possibly be the downstream sensor that is bad?
One problem at a time is the best way to handle this.
As for the O2 sensor what was the code(s)? The actual alpha numeric ie. P0303 ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
One problem at a time is the best way to handle this.
As for the O2 sensor what was the code(s)? The actual alpha numeric ie. P0303 ...
Ha, yep one at a time.

I'll have to dig up the code today. The advanced auto reader said bank 1. Pretty sure there are only 2. Looking to swap the old one to the downstream. I believe they are the same o2 plug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
A little more background. Had 2 exhaust leaks that were recently repaired. (yay WI salt).

I just ran my own code reader:

P0501 (vehicle speed sensor A range/performance)
P0420 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold)

Appears the 0s sensor code may be now gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Really hoping the cat isn't bad. Could still be the downstream 02 sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,015 Posts
Did the engine suffer from a misfire recently? We need to make sure the wiring to the rear sensor is good and then run a monitor and see what the sensor is doing. This is likely the code that the guy at Advanced got. They want to sell the sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
984 Posts
Hey guys, so this accent has been through 1 kid and now on it's way to the next. If I had my way, we would never have gotten this car and would have gotten as solid 3.8 pontiac. I digress...

Bank 1 02 sensor reading bad from code. Replaced, still shows faulty. Thought the new sensor bad, replaced with a better one, still throws code. Could this possibly be the downstream sensor that is bad??

Right side (passenger) wheel speed sensor failure. Remove, replaced, still shows bad. I did not get to clean the ring much. I will look into that soon. Thoughts?

Both inner fender wells are cracked and blown out. I have new ones, just need to take tires off and replace them. This is when I'll look at the ring for the wheel speed sensor that was replaced.

Awful groaning when turning. I have new outter tie rods as it only makes sound when turning (not going over bumps or while driving straight). Could still be a ball joint but I hope not. Could also be inner tie rods.

Not to hate on hyundai but my 2006 grand prix 3.8l supercharged is much better built. They have a few known issues to watch for but other than that they are built solid. The one thing I will say about hyundai that appears to be done right on this car is bolt on ball joints.

This are is beat up some but it still manages to pull 29mpg even with that faulty o2 code. That blows my mind.

This car is 80k on it. I'm believe the timing belt should be replaced shortly. Is that a nightmare? Take cover off, mark cogs, replace.... boom? I assume not. I do most of my own vehicle maintenance as you can tell. My wife's 06 grand prix, my 06 grand prix, my 2004 silveardo, and of course this hyundai. Son's car is newer than all of ours! (but mine are in amazing shape :) )

Thanks all in advance!
I can give you more information about the groaning while turning and the timing belt.

The groaning while turning may be the strut bearing, when those start to wear out they groan like crazy when turning.

The timing belt is relatively straight forward, one member did a great 3 video series on it, very detailed, here’s the link to the first video and you can find the second and third from there:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Did the engine suffer from a misfire recently? We need to make sure the wiring to the rear sensor is good and then run a monitor and see what the sensor is doing. This is likely the code that the guy at Advanced got. They want to sell the sensor.

I believe about a year ago it had a faulty plug/coil that was replaced, yes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I can give you more information about the groaning while turning and the timing belt.

The groaning while turning may be the strut bearing, when those start to wear out they groan like crazy when turning.

The timing belt is relatively straight forward, one member did a great 3 video series on it, very detailed, here’s the link to the first video and you can find the second and third from there:

Hmmm both sides are doing it. Normally strut bearings just make a rattle sound to my knowledge. I'll maybe try to shoot some lube in there to see if that helps. I have new outter tie rods. We'l replace and see what happens. Going to grease the ball joints too while we're in there with a needle adapter.

Thanks for the video, I'll check it out!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Car has 80k miles--do you know for sure if the timing belt has been previously replaced? If not, you need to change it immediately (also suggest changing tensioner and idler pulleys--just buy a whole kit). Replacement interval is 60k miles/4 years. Accent is an interference engine so broken belt equals broken engine.

As said earlier, groaning noise while turning is often strut bearing. Can also be sway bar links if they're far gone (more like creaking noise than groaning though).

On a side note, it seems like you're changing parts based on codes thrown by the PCM. A trouble code is a starting point, not an end point. You need to do some troubleshooting before condemning any specific part as faulty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I'm aware the timing belt is overdue. Reason why I like timing chains :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I believe you are onto something with the upper strut mount. I might order a set. $40.

We cleaned the upper plate some and lubricated it (as best we could) and it seemed to briefly help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Timing chains don't last forever either. The P0420 is coming from the rear O2. Usually it is bad cat but a new O2 may fix the issue. If you go to a new O2 then put a bung extender on too.
yup i know.

I am thinking bad cat or bad rear O2 sensor as well. Going to try to do the rear O2 soonish.

If it's a bad cat, I would expect the car to run like trash, it seems to run fine. Still pulling 30mpg on highway too. Leaning towards rear 02. I have one, just need to swap it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,422 Posts
yup i know.

I am thinking bad cat or bad rear O2 sensor as well. Going to try to do the rear O2 soonish.

If it's a bad cat, I would expect the car to run like trash, it seems to run fine. Still pulling 30mpg on highway too. Leaning towards rear 02. I have one, just need to swap it.
Good luck. I did mine a couple years ago due to the P0420 on my Accent. I heated it all up nice and red and then tried to take it off. Stripped the treads right out of the exhaust pipe. Getting a thread cutter chase is not easy on that thread size. Most 14mm are just a chase and not tapered enough to cut new threads. So I first used a 3/8" tapered NPT thread cutter, then cross threaded the 14mm bung extender into the pipe. Still get the code once in a while. It comes and goes on it's own. Currently off. I've found it will get set after you drive it. Shut the car off for awhile and then restart and go. Seems the ECU needs to see a somewhat warm engine on start then about the time you hit 160F then it will trip the code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Good luck. I did mine a couple years ago due to the P0420 on my Accent. I heated it all up nice and red and then tried to take it off. Stripped the treads right out of the exhaust pipe. Getting a thread cutter chase is not easy on that thread size. Most 14mm are just a chase and not tapered enough to cut new threads. So I first used a 3/8" tapered NPT thread cutter, then cross threaded the 14mm bung extender into the pipe. Still get the code once in a while. It comes and goes on it's own. Currently off. I've found it will get set after you drive it. Shut the car off for awhile and then restart and go. Seems the ECU needs to see a somewhat warm engine on start then about the time you hit 160F then it will trip the code.
Well that's comforting. I've told my son his car has a name: parts unlimited.

Perhaps I may end up taking it into the shop and have them cut out the bung and weld a new one on. Sounds like a lot of swearing otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,422 Posts
I don't think I got it hot enough my self. Only had a MAP torch. Getting the whole pipe O2 and all red might let you salvage the threads. At 150k miles or so I was just glad I could get it out and some sort of a repair done. But then again if it's the cat then it's no fix.
You could look at the second O2 voltage as you drive. A bad cat will show voltage below .500v and cycle where as a good cat will show over .500v and not do mych cycling at all. A bad O2 would show low and stay there. My primary went out and it would work OK but after an hour or so just sit at a low voltage triggering the slow reponse DTC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
For the P0420 and since you said you had leaks repaired, first make sure that there are no more leaks or that pinholes haven't opened up in the repairs that were made. Usually you can hear these if you get under there and listen, or while it's still cool, run your hands around the pipes and joints and you should be able to feel any pulsating air from leaks. It's surprising how tiny of a hole can change the mixture and make the computer believe that the cat is bad. Should also view the activity of the sensors on a basic scan tool that can show their working voltages and response to throttle...that will tell you quickly whether a sensor is bad (although always check harnesses and wiring before replacing). If your misfire was bad enough and allowed to continue long enough, it's possible that the catalyst was fouled enough to require replacing the cat. Similarly, if you allow an exhaust leak to continue long enough and the O2 sensors are reacting to tell the computer to increase fuel delivery, then you can foul a cat that way, too. Sensors do wear out or go bad but they last a really long time and even at 90K I would expect to be addressing another issue in the system rather than replacing the sensor.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
About this Discussion
17 Replies
6 Participants
71coliseum
Hyundai Forums
Hyundai Forum is a community for all Hyundai Owners to talk and learn all about their favorite subject: Hyundai cars from the Sonata to the Elantra and even the new Kona!
Full Forum Listing
Top