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I have a 2010 accent which about 2 months ago stripped the timing belt which was running fine before. I put a new belt on it and did a compression test and got 120/140/140/140. Started right up, drove fine. Since... every morning when I start it the CEL comes on and a few mins later will barley run (cant get to 30mph) until I clear the code at which time it runs really well for the rest of the day. I have just been leaving my OBDII plugged in and when it starts running like that, I clear the code and instantly starts running good. The codes I’m getting are P0328 (knock sensor)
P0620 alternator circut

I’ve never seen the battery light come on, advanced tested the alternator and says it’s good, I don’t see any damaged wires and when I did the timing belt. I only loosened the alternator to get the belt off.
 

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Engine was cold when tested. If I keep driving with the CEL in and it missing... I will also get P0300- random misfire. It only does this in the morning. I can leave it sitting 8 hours after the first start and it doesn’t do it.
 

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You have issues due to the broken timing belt. Complete compression test including running compression test is in order.
 

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I have ran a compression test as I listed in the original post. I’m not getting any miss fire codes until I get the alt code and a knock sensor code. I’ve never seen one without the other. The engine is like it’s bogging down. If I drive for 10-15 mins like that I start getting “mis-fire codes”, the car literally will not do 30mph. WOT for 5 mins along the shoulder.... ~25mph is all it has.
Which is why I’m calling it limp mode but can’t find any information about a limp mode not involving the trans.

When I clear the codes, I can do 80mph, I’ve even drove it 2 states away after I cleared the code- 0 codes runs good. I feel that if it was a mechanical issue (low compression) a 600 mile round trip with no issues and no codes isn’t possible.

However, If I leave it parked over night and it does it about 5 mins into the drive, every time.
 
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