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sorry meant 150cm. mine is a single red bar but i see yours adjusts wider with the black bars. ill have to jury rig it.
does the right side of the engine even need to be supported? or only the left side where the tranny is being removed?
 

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probably just need to support the left side where tranny gets removed, but it's also helpful to have a floor jack (with a wooden block) under the base pan as I showed you since it makes it easier to reinstall the transmission when you can raise or lower by a couple of inches to line up the bolt holes. Tou remove the front and rear roll stopper mounts and the left-sde engine mount, leave the right side one attached.
 

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ok, yes I used a jack under the pan when I did my cam belt 3 years ago (no hoist).

I just found out I gotta remove the front exhaust box so I can get to the the transfer case... Hmm.. 13 years of road salt... thats gonna be fun!
 

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....remove the front and rear roll stopper mounts and the left-sde engine mount, leave the right side one attached.
the printout I have says use plugs in the axle holes when you remove them to prevent dirt oil in/out. Did you do this? are theere special plugs?
 

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Nice thread
Going to have a go at this(actually half way through) however, mine is a Manual Diesel and AWD! Bit different. Lots of mounts, lots of hidden bolts and a tricky transfer case to get around. Same issue. No pedal. Loud intermittent chatter. Lets hope its not the DMF as well :(
Cheers
Bruce
Hockers, how did it go removing the transfer case?
 

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the printout I have says use plugs in the axle holes when you remove them to prevent dirt oil in/out. Did you do this? are theere special plugs?
Doesn't need to be fancy, just jam a clean rag in there...in hindsight I should have done that, but I don't think I put anything in there to be honest.
 

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hopefully this ll be my last Question:
do you need to loosen all the suframe blots or only the rear ones?
How much to drop the subframe and are the bolts still threaded into their nut or completely out?
thanks for the advice so far(y)
 

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hopefully this ll be my last Question:
do you need to loosen all the suframe blots or only the rear ones?
How much to drop the subframe and are the bolts still threaded into their nut or completely out?
thanks for the advice so far(y)
If you scroll back to the pictures I posted when I did this, you'll see that I had the front and rear subframe bolts almost all the way out to get enough clearance to jam the transmission into the driver's side wheel well. I left some threads on the bolts though to ensure the subframe didn't drop. You need to be careful not to lower too far because the power steering lines that are still connected to the steering rack are moving as you lower that subframe.
 

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did you unbolt the bellhousing and trasmission as one before or after lowering the subframe?
Yes, I left the driver's side transmission mount connected until I had the subframe lowered, then I supported underneath the transmission with a wide jack, unbolted the transmission mount, then took the bolts out connecting the bellhousing to the engine, and wrestled the transmission into the driver's side wheel well and rested it on the lowered subframe to gain access to the clutch disc and slave cylinder.
 

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ah ok. found 2 sneaky bolts in wheelwell behind rubber grommets. took em.out and mount is now loose but because the trans and motor have a gap now i still cant get the mount off due to no clearance.
ive been 2 hours on this mount alone and its still not out
this job is driving me mental
. no
 

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I don't think I actually had to remove the mount, just disconnected whatever bolts were attached to the transmission so that it could drop down.
 

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yeah, no, there is all sorts of shifter linkage on top that I dont really want to mess up. I removed the mount and lowered the subframe and was wondering why the tranny wouldnt budge. Then I discoved I hadnt removed the rear mount....
So now I gotta rescrew the subframe so it doesnt drop on me when I remove the rear mount....
 

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I was injured bed for 3 weeks. back to the car on Monday.
So. I discovered the only way to move the trans far enough left to access the clutch was to take out the 2 bolts and drop the left side of subframe as far as it would go.
pressure plate and disc are good, must have been replaced before , buy dmf and throwout were in really bad shape though
 
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