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Discussion Starter #1
Going to replace the clutch in my SUV, the slave cylinder decided to fail (fluid draining out the transmission and no clutch pedal resistance) so putting in a new clutch as well. Anyone have a write up on the replacement? My main question is to whether or not the sub frame needs to be removed. I am really hoping I won't have to do that. This isn't my first clutch replacement but it's my first on a Santa Fe. I have the torque specs for everything just can't find a definitive answer on the sub frame. It's a real pain as I just replaced the master cylinder because it failed.

Thanks!
 

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Oh wow, I didn't know they were available without an automatic transmission.

My guess is yes but someone will pipe up that's worked under there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yep its only available on the base 2.7L with FWD I believe. Its really fun to drive and actually quite peppy. Wasn't easy to find one either, everything around here is all automatics.
 

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You will want to do it on a rack and drop the subframe.. hang engine and remove transmission. When you refill transmission, use the Hyundai-Kia GL-4 oil, ends in -00020B I think it is
 

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One key downside is your lining wear! No different than brake linings/pads. Eventually, sometimes the pressure assist if they using hydraulics to pull the clutch plate back and not a cable as in the old days. They are not cheap repairs. A looked after automatic will last as long as the engine and vehicle. The gas millage is as good or better than most standards can manage. Few owners can work the clutch and RPM's for efficiency and not over revving most of the time. I think its an art. If you're out in the boonies and don't shift much then you may, I do mean may do a tad better on millage. No worth it in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Unfortunately no access to a lift, so will have to be done on jack stands. Any way it can be slid out of the way enough to swap the clutch without dropping the subframe?

Also I have driven manual for years, can't stand automatics. I know that the newer automatics are just as if not more efficient but I prefer manual any day. Currently have over 200,000 km on it and the only reason I am changing out the clutch is because of the slave cylinder. The clutch is original to the car and doesn't slip.
 

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I saw a VW in a local shop a while back this year I go to now and then. They had to pull the engine to replace the clutch. I was thinking, ouch a pretty dollar or two for that job.

Good luck but from what i have seen jacks don't get the vehicles high enough. At least not mine nor would I trust myself under them if they were fully extended. However, my hydraulic jack would not raise it high enough for it either. Max 16" lift as I recall. You'd need one of them tire shop roll around ones with the long handle with a big long end to raise it much higher.

Jack stands should have a wider base for stability, more so than the lower end one from part store carry. IMO
 

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I have a buddy that just had his clutch replaced last year
Pricey.
I seem to recall they had trouble finding a clutch for his.
You may want to look into that before you start.
 

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Going to replace the clutch in my SUV, the slave cylinder decided to fail (fluid draining out the transmission and no clutch pedal resistance) so putting in a new clutch as well. Anyone have a write up on the replacement? My main question is to whether or not the sub frame needs to be removed. I am really hoping I won't have to do that. This isn't my first clutch replacement but it's my first on a Santa Fe. I have the torque specs for everything just can't find a definitive answer on the sub frame. It's a real pain as I just replaced the master cylinder because it failed.

Thanks!
I think this has what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow that is fantastic. Exactly what I need. Had no idea that they had such a detailed teardown. Thank you very much I really appreciate it!
 

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Wow that is fantastic. Exactly what I need. Had no idea that they had such a detailed teardown. Thank you very much I really appreciate it!

I am seeing a complete tear down of shifter,,,, not needed when replacing clutch,, disconnect cable end at trans, remove trans
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The shifter removal was part of a separate section. The transmission removal was under a separate heading.
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread, but hoping someone could chime in on how this went afterwards? I read through that detailed tear-down (which was very helpful, thank you), but was hoping there's someone on here who has actually completed a transmission removal/clutch replacement on a 2009 Santa Fe (or that generation), standard trans.

I'm planning to do this in my own garage, so I'm curious if the engine hoist is absolutely necessary, or could I just support the engine with blocks and stands while the transmission is removed? Also curious what needs to be done with anything related to the steering rack and sub frame. The guide that was posted noted that you have to remove some sub frame mounting bolts, but it doesn't say to actually remove the sub frame...must be a clearance issue?

Thanks in advance.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I completed the clutch replacement last July. You may be able to do it without an engine hoist but it makes things a lot easier to use one. I used the engine hoist mainly to move the transmission. I used a piece of steel brace along the top to hold the engine in place with chains and rachet straps. You do have to lower the subframe on the driver side. You can just remove those bolts for the driver side and drop it down a few inches to gain the clearance you need to pull the transmission into the wheel well. I can't remember if I loosened the passenger side ones but I don't think I did.Make sure you replace the slave cylinder while you are in there, I replaced it because that's what failed but you want to anyways as you really don't want to have to go back in to replace it in the future. It's a lengthly procedure I think I started Friday night and I was done Sunday afternoon. That was working a few hours friday night, 8-5 saturday and about 8-2:30 on sunday. If you have any further questions I would be happy to help. You do not need to drop or do anything with the steering rack. I think the instructions state you need to remove it but you do not.
 

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Thanks very much for the quick response. I may take you up on that offer for further questions, nice to know that someone has done this job in the comforts of their own concrete floor :)

I have done a number of transmission drops and clutches over the years, but not on this vehicle. And I will absolutely replace the slave cylinder at the same time, it looks like most of the clutch kits for this vehicle include it.

What did you do (if anything) with the flywheel? Did you get it resurfaced, or replace, or left it as is?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What I did was take emery cloth on a block and sanded the surface of the flywheel to get rid of the glaze. Doesn't take much force or sanding it to get it off. Then just clean with brake cleaner. Depending on what flywheel you have (there are 2 revisions) some machine shops can't even resurface them because of the design as it has raised weights on it and a new one costs over $1000. I have put 30,000KM on it so far and haven't had any issues with it.
 

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I just bought the vehicle, so I guess I'm all in now!

Any chance you recall what brand the clutch kit was that you purchased? I can find one that's made by AMS (Rhinopac), and there's another one from New Generation, but I can't find any information on that company. Seems to me like my issue is with that internal slave cylinder based on my very quick look at lunch today when I bought the vehicle. Will get a better look at it this evening when it gets towed to its new home.
 
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