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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to remove a knock sensor on a 2008 green hatchback accent 2 door. I can't get the 12 mm bolt off that holds the sensor thats bolted onto the motor underneath the car. I put the car on rhino ramps in my yard and crawled underneath. Does anyone know why I cannot turn the 12 mm bolt? I am turning it counter clockwise, as if I were looking at a clock, i'm going backwards, and I can't turn the bolt, its like stuck. Aren't I turning it the right direction? Do I need some spray product to loosen it up? Can someone please explain what i'm doing wrong. I am tired of letting people work on my car, they just don't care about my car like I feel like they should.

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If you can try tapping on the bolt head. Some spray might help but takes time to penetrate. Be sure to use a 6 sided socket or wrench if you can.

If you have a propane/MAPP torch some heat will help. Especially if they used some loctitie at the factory on the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I still cannot get the 12 mm bolt to come off. I did manage 3 good turns after I used "Liquid Wrench" spray product. I used a "socket wrench" with a 12mm socket. If I bought a standard wrench, would that help me anymore? Or would I still have about the same result? I only let the "liquid wrench" spray stay on for less than 30 minutes. I would not be able to heat this bolt up with any propane, because its a tight enough fit getting my hand up the back of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update: I found out a ratchet can slip teeth if so much torque is applied. I never turned the bolt after all, my ratchet was slipping teeth and misleading me. I am buying wrench set tomorrow and retry. If not I'm buying a super long breaker bar. I've been researching tools. If anyone is interested I'll keep everyone updated.
knock.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: I got it off! I used a standard wrench, I crawled under the engine and put the wrench on the 12mm bolt. Then I got a super long screw driver and went to the top of the engine and layed the flat head screw driver on the wrench, and started hammering down the screw driver end. And luckily the wrench didn't move out of place and the bolt came off. I held it in hand. This picture is my actual vehicle and the tools used. Thanks guys.
IMG_20200315_160833.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well guys, I thought I was done, but now I can't get the electrical connection to disconnect from the other end of the knock sensor (top of engine by coolant overflow tank). All the videos on youtube focus on the bolt under the engine but they don't cover disconnecting the electrical connection. I tried pull them to disconnect them, sticking a screw driver in a embossed part of the connection, nothing! Does anyone know a way to do this or have a website how to disconnect Hyundai electrical connections. Thanks.
 

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Update: Electrical connection removed! See image, I circled in red the culprit. The only thing holding the male and female together is a little black tab sticking out that I circled in red in the image. I have a very tiny miniature flat head screw driver. I lifted around that tab until I had clearance to pull them apart. I put them back together and it made a clicking sound. It's pretty simple if you have a small flat head screw driver
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I have also found electrical connectors on car components very difficult to remove the first time until you learn the locking scheme and tab release method of each. It would be nice if they used a more standardized approach to the mechanical latching method so it would be simpler to remove them no matter what the component use. I have found using a mini pick set such as this very inexpensive one from Harbor Freight to be very helpful in pressing on the indent tab of most connectors:

HF Mini Pick and Hook set
 
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