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Poured in some Seafoam to give it a try to get the P0012 to go away. Drove it about 200 miles and changes with OEM Hyundai filter and Castrol full synthetic 5-20.

Not much change as it keeps popping back up. May go 200 miles and not come on, then trip at a stop light? I did it today on a 150 mile one way trip. Going along at about 65 mph and it tripped.

Going to try to take the valve cover off and verify the phaser and cam chain appear to be OK.

Any other thoughts?
Hi John

Did you got it fixed... I am having same problem with my hyundai santa fe 3.3L

Check engine light comes when its cold...and stays for couple of days... I called hyundai dealer and they told me to change to change fuel to octane 98 and test (i didn't tell them what's the error code.. i just said i am getting check engine light)

I did refill octane 98 and light went off... i drove for almost 500Km no check engine light... today light showed up again i refilled octane 98 light was still on... i reved engnine and drove for 10 KM light went off...
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Today I got off in the weeds with a checkout of the timing issues.

I removed the spark plug and verified the timing was all aligned properly at TDC. Upon a restart the light went off and I drove it about 2 mile before it came back on. (Insert a truckload of frustration here)

I have a Honda tuner friend, that implies the Accord will die at idle if you apply battery voltage to oil control valve. I tried that too, but could only hear a change in the idle. Anyone able to verify this does anything?

I'm out of direction here now. What about oil pressure being the culprit? Screen has be cleaned with nothing appearing to be clogging it.

At this point, anyone every had to change the VVT mechanism? Please advice of how difficult this might be?
 

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Crank pulley looks good.
They can fool you. Really need to put a scope on the cam and crank sensors and watch the timing correlation. Do a snap throttle and you'll probably be able to see them change. That would be the harmonic balancer moving due to rubber breaking down. When everything else is good a scope is the only way to know for sure.
 

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GDS current data... Desired cam time and actual cam time values.. majority of time it turn out to be OCV that not route oil quickly enough

Did have one earlier this year that had cam time code,,, come down to engine being a heavy "mud" motor.. When discorvered, we sent fella packing,, nothing more we can do with it
 

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Discussion Starter #27
They can fool you. Really need to put a scope on the cam and crank sensors and watch the timing correlation. Do a snap throttle and you'll probably be able to see them change. That would be the harmonic balancer moving due to rubber breaking down. When everything else is good a scope is the only way to know for sure.
They can fool you. Really need to put a scope on the cam and crank sensors and watch the timing correlation. Do a snap throttle and you'll probably be able to see them change. That would be the harmonic balancer moving due to rubber breaking down. When everything else is good a scope is the only way to know for sure.
I'll hit my local Pull-a-Part tomorrow. Certainly worth a try. Thanks

As for a Mudder motor, when i pulled the valve cover to check the VVT & cam chain it all "looked" good. Not any science done by looks either.

What should the oil pressure be at idle??

This one is eating my lunch...
 

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I'll hit my local Pull-a-Part tomorrow. Certainly worth a try. Thanks

As for a Mudder motor, when i pulled the valve cover to check the VVT & cam chain it all "looked" good. Not any science done by looks either.

What should the oil pressure be at idle??

This one is eating my lunch...
Do you know a repair facility that specialize in engine diagnostics? They should have a scope and do the cam crank correlation test I described with a WOT (wide open throttle) snap test. To do the test they need to unhook the variable cam timing so the signals are not changed by the cam phaser. If the signals change relative to each other the balancer is bad. If they are good you may want to consider what sbt711 said about 'muddy' engines. If you throw a used balancer on it there's no way to know it's a good one.. A good performance shop or engine diagnostics shop should be able to scope that for you. Print this out and take it to a shop who has a good scope and they will know what to look for.
 

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John, if you figure this out please post. I've got the exact same deal. P0016 that won't go away.
Also had the P0172, I "think" I've solved that by new Coil packs. My belief was the two codes were not related.
Interesting you had it also. I'm still working on this so any input at this point....
 

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Update

Took the advice and took it into a reputable diagnostic shop. They tinkered for about 45 minutes and agreed the the harmonic balancer was probably the biggest issue.
Save my money and got a Hyundai factory balancer.

Made it almost a mile before ether P0016 cam back on.

I'm out of ideas, going to go thru the process one more time. Used all new factory parts, timing belt, idler, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, oil control valve. (new water pump, radiator and hoses)

I'm all ears, and not wanting to get rid of it, but the frustration is wearing me out.
 

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Any way to clean the oil passage from the OCV to the phaser? I'd think that the P0016 I get is at lower speed thus the lesser oil pressure?
I use factory oil filters and synthetic oil.

GDS current data... Desired cam time and actual cam time values.. majority of time it turn out to be OCV that not route oil quickly enough

Did have one earlier this year that had cam time code,,, come down to engine being a heavy "mud" motor.. When discorvered, we sent fella packing,, nothing more we can do with it
 

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Sorry to hear you're still having problems chasing down this code. Did the shop that recommended changing the harmonic balancer actually back-probe the cam and crank sensors with an oscilloscope to check the signals under varying conditions like grcauto suggested?
 

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Hate to rain on parade, but Harmonic balancer (crank pulley) has nothing to do with concern.. it no different than flywheel at other end of crank, slide on crank, held with bolt.. rubber damper ring and outer pulley ring to act as "mass damper" to absorb harmonic vibes..
 

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Update

Thanks SBR711. Was thinking it could be based on a physical appearance, cracked badly. Only tripping MIL at low idle. Reaching I know...

I removed the timing covers and valve cover. Everything is aligned as it should be.
I'll give the sensors a look with my works oscilliscope. And my scan tool as it does a lot of the diagnostics too. (Autel MD806)
I have ordered a new cam position sensor connector as well as a cam position sensor. I had originally had the connector crumble as I was fixing to remove it.

Very frustrated with this issue, like the Accent a lot too though.

Appreciate the forums help as always.
 

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Quick update: Took the racer in for a recall update, the local great dealer did a check and found the crank position sensor was not right. I have a new OEM one coming. I'll let everyone know the outcome.
 

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Replaced crank position sensor. Cleared code, made it to work with no MIL. Cam out, fired it up, MIL came back on...

Dealer also mentioned the OCV connector, and I have the kit on order.

One more try...

John
 

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Replaced crank position sensor. Cleared code, made it to work with no MIL. Cam out, fired it up, MIL came back on...

Dealer also mentioned the OCV connector, and I have the kit on order.

One more try...

John
Hey John, did you ever figure this out? I am currently chasing a P0016 as well and it's driving me insane. (mine does have stalling issues though unlike yours - but my timing is dead on)
 

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Just a quick where-I'm-at:

New Crank Position Sensor (old one was non-OEM)
New OCV connector, as old one wouldn't click as it was broken
Oil change, Factory filter and synthetic 5-20 Pennzoil

Took it back for the airbag warranty:

It's the OCV, it's sticking.

New one on order, so we shall see.
 

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Because I'm nice I uploaded this hma part to my server for you. here is advanced testing for your problem. Please take this info to your mechanic if they need to know the testing procedures for this vehicle.

Suspect OCV,OCV passage....but can be wiring issue due to corrosion. If you need the ecm wiring just ask and then you can probe form the computer to the sensors.



P0016

please use internet explorer to open the pop3.htm file to view the testing.

have a good day
 
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