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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone here had the oil pump clog up causing bearing failure. This is the same thing that the newer Theta II GDI are having a recall. But, we're S.O.L. I think we should all file a complaint on safercar.gov and force them to do the recall or reimbursement on the older Theta I and II motors. I had it happen at 125K miles even though I changed the oil every 3K miles. Very disappointing.
 

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I'm not a mechanic, but before a clog-up case there should had been some oil pressure light or some kinda error. It's not just a sudden moment. At least I think so.
I always inspect the draint oil for particles or dirt. Never found any of it.
Every 3k miles is to soon, waste of oil. I change at 10k kms. (6-7k miles )
BTW, sorry to hear, you have this problem.
 

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Anyone here had the oil pump clog up causing bearing failure. This is the same thing that the newer Theta II GDI are having a recall.
Sorry your engine was trashed. However, 2011-2012 2.4L & 2.0T Sonata engines in the recall have spun rod bearings because a manufacturing process on the rod bearings left metal particles in the engine that plugged up the bearing lubrication ports. That faulty manufacturing process was not related to your engine.

But, it is concerning that your oil pump was clogged. Have you or your mechanic been able to determine the composition of the clog and/or what caused it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There was no sign of anything wrong. Oil drained clean every 3K miles. Then at 125K it just started knocking. Pulled oil pan found metal pieces in oil, damage to #2 bearing, rod and crank. Checked oil pump nothing squirting out of the #2 jet, looked into it and metal pieces inside. How the heck can the oil pump jet get clogged with metal pieces when I changed the oil every 3K miles. Has to be a defect, but it was past the 100K warranty so I was S.O.L.
 

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There was no sign of anything wrong. Oil drained clean every 3K miles. Then at 125K it just started knocking. Pulled oil pan found metal pieces in oil, damage to #2 bearing, rod and crank. Checked oil pump nothing squirting out of the #2 jet, looked into it and metal pieces inside. How the heck can the oil pump jet get clogged with metal pieces when I changed the oil every 3K miles. Has to be a defect, but it was past the 100K warranty so I was S.O.L.
Agree, especially since you had short oil change intervals.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The real pain was getting the correct crank, rod, bearing cap, bearings, gaskets, seals, oil pump, etc. because of running changes. My car was built in Korea in 7/05, not in Alabama, vin # starts with a K, so there were slight differences. I ended up having to also change the oil pan due to the clearance issue of the newer oil pump. Basically, the bottom end is of an '07. I also changed the rings since everything else was out. Basically rebuilt the entire bottom end. Took almost a month of getting parts, being wrong, reordering, etc. Should have waiting to get an '07, didn't know of all the running changes between the Korean made and the Alabama made Theta I. Even the tension pulley is different, the Korean made uses a 15mm bolt and the Alabama uses a 17mm. But now I basically have a new motor. Wish I had gotten a magnetic drain plug when the car was new. Would have avoided all this. I'm 100% positive it was due to excessive flashing not cleaned up during casting.
 

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If only some mechanic could tell the exact problem after disassembling the engine.
Keep us updated if you can!
Will you repair, rebuild or replace the engine or sell and buy sg else?

All I ever wanted is a car like this, but now I'm getting a little bit nervous. I always thought, the weak point maybe the automatic gearbox and the repair would cost up to 1000$ ( we have approx 50 sonatas running in the country, no replacement at all)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XxezK0D-7AThe other thing is we don't know : how many of these cars are still on the road and has no problem?
 

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Wish I had gotten a magnetic drain plug when the car was new. Would have avoided all this. I'm 100% positive it was due to excessive flashing not cleaned up during casting.
Not if it was aluminum.

Do you have all your oil change records, etc? If you can round up all the maintenance you have done on this car I would take it and go up the chain at Hyundai, and maybe get the BBB involved if you get nowhere. 100,000 is 100,000, but this most likely did not happen in the last 25,000 miles alone.

I'm willing to be they will at least partially reimburse you.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Most internal wearable parts are still steel like the crank, bearings, rings, etc. That's probably what had excess flashing.
All of the maintenance was done by me, so I didn't keep the receipts. But, the sales manager knows me personally and knows how meticulous I am about maintenance. I always went by the severe maintenance schedule since I'm in NY and drive in stop and go traffic daily. The sales manager and service manager both said it would be an uphill battle so I didn't even bother since I was over the 100K mile mark. Funny thing is that at 97K miles the intake manifold gasket developed a leak and was replaced under the 100K mile warranty and the service manager commended me on how well maintained my car was. This happened last year 7/2014. So when I saw the recall, I just figured it was related. But then again I've heard Hondas and Toyotas having the same issue once the motor is over 100K due to the oil pump being internal under the crank preventing the old fashioned crankshaft oil bath splashing causing the bearings to wear.
 

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Most internal wearable parts are still steel like the crank, bearings, rings, etc. That's probably what had excess flashing.
All of the maintenance was done by me, so I didn't keep the receipts. But, the sales manager knows me personally and knows how meticulous I am about maintenance. I always went by the severe maintenance schedule since I'm in NY and drive in stop and go traffic daily. The sales manager and service manager both said it would be an uphill battle so I didn't even bother since I was over the 100K mile mark. Funny thing is that at 97K miles the intake manifold gasket developed a leak and was replaced under the 100K mile warranty and the service manager commended me on how well maintained my car was. This happened last year 7/2014. So when I saw the recall, I just figured it was related. But then again I've heard Hondas and Toyotas having the same issue once the motor is over 100K due to the oil pump being internal under the crank preventing the old fashioned crankshaft oil bath splashing causing the bearings to wear.
Nice.

I had an 80 Corolla that unbeknowst to me developed a loose oil pan at 60,000 miles. I didn't think you could "lose" oil on such a new engine, so I didn't check the oil every week, and when I did an oil change 1.5 quarts came out. I refilled it and after a few weeks checked the oil and there was a little under 2 quarts. A coworker said, Hey, look the the frame! THere was oil on it like someone sprayed it with an airbrush.

I tightened the bolts on the oil pan and checked them every oil change after that. Ran the car up to 244,000 miles, never a problem...no smoke, no metallic noises, etc. Another friend suggested what you said: the two quarts sitting in the bottom of the engine splashing around managed to keep the engine lubricated. If that's no longer the case frequent oil checks are certainly mandated.

Thanks. I didn't know this.
 

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I missed your post... so as I see, you have a rebuilt engine.
Mine is also made in Korea, vin chassis starts with KMHEU.Also made in 2005/05.
Any pictures of the damage, repair process?
Have you or anyone else ever checked the valves,took off the cover? Is there a premature wear on the camshaft's? Can it be seen somehow?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Valvetrain was perfect. Just the #2 bearing, bearing cap, rod, oil pump and crankshaft were damaged. It was due to metal pieces clogging up the #2 oil pump jet.
 

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Perry,
Not sure if it might help for future. I have one of these on each car since day 1. When I cut them open you can see the grey pasty stuff that you find inside tranny pan etc. on the magnets.

FilterMag International |

I'm using about 1 quart between oil changes (7500 interval with syn.) Everything looks spotless that i can see through fill hole. I'm sure the 6000 rpm shifts don't help that. Currently at 142k
 

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Toyota 3SF-E opened up at 355,, minor yellow tint to head, block tint, and bearings as new.. couple burnt exhaust valves caused me to tear down for repair.. $800 in expendables, driving again for another 23,000... wiring for lights needs repair, and dead battery from sitting while I drive other ride.
 

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Hey Sequoia long time no speak. I always though about putting a flexible magnet on the spin on filter and never did. Thought that it was overkill, since I changed the oil every 3K miles. Now I know better. I also switched to Synthetic from Conventional. It's the way these new motors are made, they rely on the oil pump to spray oil onto the crank, bearings, caps, etc. instead of the old fashioned oil bath.
 
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Good to see you still around. Posting time is very limited between the rest of life schedule. My son (15) ;) :eek: is doing pretty good at learning to drive stick when opportunities allow. Hopefully the Sonata holds out as that was my original plan with all the ESC and airbags for him.

Stick choices getting very limited and I want mid size (maybe) so will probably wind up with something other brand. Maybe downsize to a WRX or S5 quattro, though a non fixed Passat diesel sport might do the trick for back and forth to work.

I put a fumoto valve on both cars a while back but still contemplate going back and doing one of the really strong magnet drain plugs also.
 

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Well here I am 5 years and 78k later with some version of engine failure. I don't think it's worth the time/effort/money to try and fix it with everything else I have going schedule wise. Motor started vibrating the whole car, RPM related and I found a blown right motor mount. Fluid leaked out of it. I replaced that and stayed the same. Shop checked it and in their opinion it was something with the balance shaft. 1 mile from home, oil light came on and oil now covers the entire motor. They had said 500+ for the Balance shaft unit and about 1500 labor pending what else they find.

Reading some posts here it's ALMOST tempting to pull the valve cover and look to see. There is a separate chain and tensioners for the balance shaft unit but looks like the timing chain has to come off for that anyway. Might be junkyard bound. 13 1/2 years, 220k, it was a very good vehicle overall.
 

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Anyone here had the oil pump clog up causing bearing failure. This is the same thing that the newer Theta II GDI are having a recall. But, we're S.O.L. I think we should all file a complaint on safercar.gov and force them to do the recall or reimbursement on the older Theta I and II motors. I had it happen at 125K miles even though I changed the oil every 3K miles. Very disappointing.
I'm guessing you used 5w20 oil that wasn't full synthetic. If yes, you may have gained another 25-50k with 5w30 and at-least delayed the inevitable.
I'm saddened by your circumstances. Also regretably-sad that I purchased a 2.4 in my Hyundai. I'll continue to shop for oils that show the best anti-wear specs and try to delay my own engine failure of the future.
 
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