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We have had 3 sonatas in the family, and 2006, a 2007 and a 2010. (I also drive a 2010 SantaFe!) The 2007 is gone on to car heaven, but my daughter still owns the 2006.



Its had some power window issues - namely, I've had to replace both window regulators on the driver's side due to the plastic rotting and eventually breaking. (This was a FL car for most of it's life and the heat/sun really did some damage)



However that's not today's issue. Over the weekend I replaced the rear regulator, as this window has never worked since she bought it. (was stuck up) When I removed the window motor to test it, the regulator disintegrated to dust. So this weekend I tore it all apart, replaced it, and even had a spare known-good window motor on hand. Once reassembled I tested it and..


The window will go up! Yay! But the window will not go down from the rear switch. And from the driver's master switch it will not do either up nor down.


I pulled the motor from the door and tested it, 12V+ turns one way, 12V- turns the other. Seems to work. I checked the voltage at the connector:


Using the rear window switch:
- UP = +12V
- DOWN = -0.6V


Using the driver's switch:
- UP = 0V
- Down = -0.6V


Now - to add to this, there is more weirdness with one other window:


Passenger front window will work fine from the master switch, but will not work at all from the door switch. Have not ripped into that one yet. (maybe bad door swith on pass side?)



Back to where I left off:


- For now it's back together and I'm wishing I had a wiring diagram. I also suspect the master switch may have issues, since every power window wiring diagram I've ever seen runs every circuit through the master switch.



The 0.6V thing is telling, I think. Bad contact/ground/connection someplace.



Any help troubleshooting this - or getting me a wiring diagram - would be super appreciated.



Thanks!
Jeff
 

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We have had 3 sonatas in the family, and 2006, a 2007 and a 2010. (I also drive a 2010 SantaFe!) The 2007 is gone on to car heaven, but my daughter still owns the 2006.



Its had some power window issues - namely, I've had to replace both window regulators on the driver's side due to the plastic rotting and eventually breaking. (This was a FL car for most of it's life and the heat/sun really did some damage)



However that's not today's issue. Over the weekend I replaced the rear regulator, as this window has never worked since she bought it. (was stuck up) When I removed the window motor to test it, the regulator disintegrated to dust. So this weekend I tore it all apart, replaced it, and even had a spare known-good window motor on hand. Once reassembled I tested it and..


The window will go up! Yay! But the window will not go down from the rear switch. And from the driver's master switch it will not do either up nor down.


I pulled the motor from the door and tested it, 12V+ turns one way, 12V- turns the other. Seems to work. I checked the voltage at the connector:


Using the rear window switch:
- UP = +12V
- DOWN = -0.6V


Using the driver's switch:
- UP = 0V
- Down = -0.6V


Now - to add to this, there is more weirdness with one other window:


Passenger front window will work fine from the master switch, but will not work at all from the door switch. Have not ripped into that one yet. (maybe bad door swith on pass side?)



Back to where I left off:


- For now it's back together and I'm wishing I had a wiring diagram. I also suspect the master switch may have issues, since every power window wiring diagram I've ever seen runs every circuit through the master switch.



The 0.6V thing is telling, I think. Bad contact/ground/connection someplace.



Any help troubleshooting this - or getting me a wiring diagram - would be super appreciated.



Thanks!
Jeff
You should invest in a Haynes manual from AZ or most other parts distributors. Probably covers all your vehicles for under $20.
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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Switch the ignition on and connect your voltmeter between the power supply terminal and the two ground terminals on the rear door window switch as shown below. I think you'll find there is no 12V when you connect the meter to the DOWN GROUND. The two grounds come from the master switch. If one is missing at the rear door connector it means either the master switch is faulty or the wiring between the two switches is open circuit/broken. In my experience, the fault is more often the master switch.

 

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We have had 3 sonatas in the family, and 2006, a 2007 and a 2010. (I also drive a 2010 SantaFe!) The 2007 is gone on to car heaven, but my daughter still owns the 2006.



Its had some power window issues - namely, I've had to replace both window regulators on the driver's side due to the plastic rotting and eventually breaking. (This was a FL car for most of it's life and the heat/sun really did some damage)



However that's not today's issue. Over the weekend I replaced the rear regulator, as this window has never worked since she bought it. (was stuck up) When I removed the window motor to test it, the regulator disintegrated to dust. So this weekend I tore it all apart, replaced it, and even had a spare known-good window motor on hand. Once reassembled I tested it and..


The window will go up! Yay! But the window will not go down from the rear switch. And from the driver's master switch it will not do either up nor down.


I pulled the motor from the door and tested it, 12V+ turns one way, 12V- turns the other. Seems to work. I checked the voltage at the connector:


Using the rear window switch:
- UP = +12V
- DOWN = -0.6V


Using the driver's switch:
- UP = 0V
- Down = -0.6V


Now - to add to this, there is more weirdness with one other window:


Passenger front window will work fine from the master switch, but will not work at all from the door switch. Have not ripped into that one yet. (maybe bad door swith on pass side?)



Back to where I left off:


- For now it's back together and I'm wishing I had a wiring diagram. I also suspect the master switch may have issues, since every power window wiring diagram I've ever seen runs every circuit through the master switch.



The 0.6V thing is telling, I think. Bad contact/ground/connection someplace.



Any help troubleshooting this - or getting me a wiring diagram - would be super appreciated.



Thanks!
Jeff
Schematic Diagrams attached.
 

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How did you get the rear window regulator off? I'm trying to fix mine and I can't get it off.



We have had 3 sonatas in the family, and 2006, a 2007 and a 2010. (I also drive a 2010 SantaFe!) The 2007 is gone on to car heaven, but my daughter still owns the 2006.



Its had some power window issues - namely, I've had to replace both window regulators on the driver's side due to the plastic rotting and eventually breaking. (This was a FL car for most of it's life and the heat/sun really did some damage)



However that's not today's issue. Over the weekend I replaced the rear regulator, as this window has never worked since she bought it. (was stuck up) When I removed the window motor to test it, the regulator disintegrated to dust. So this weekend I tore it all apart, replaced it, and even had a spare known-good window motor on hand. Once reassembled I tested it and..


The window will go up! Yay! But the window will not go down from the rear switch. And from the driver's master switch it will not do either up nor down.


I pulled the motor from the door and tested it, 12V+ turns one way, 12V- turns the other. Seems to work. I checked the voltage at the connector:


Using the rear window switch:
- UP = +12V
- DOWN = -0.6V


Using the driver's switch:
- UP = 0V
- Down = -0.6V


Now - to add to this, there is more weirdness with one other window:


Passenger front window will work fine from the master switch, but will not work at all from the door switch. Have not ripped into that one yet. (maybe bad door swith on pass side?)



Back to where I left off:


- For now it's back together and I'm wishing I had a wiring diagram. I also suspect the master switch may have issues, since every power window wiring diagram I've ever seen runs every circuit through the master switch.



The 0.6V thing is telling, I think. Bad contact/ground/connection someplace.



Any help troubleshooting this - or getting me a wiring diagram - would be super appreciated.



Thanks!
Jeff
 
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