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At this point the car revs up and down when starting. Going into reverse it will accelerate on its own, hitting the brake usually makes it run rough then die with the esc off light coming on. CEL is always on. Going forward the car will run for a few seconds then the esc off comes on with limited power. Have replaced: accelerator pedal, map and maf sensor, tps, pcv valve, input and output speed sensors. Trouble codes: p2173, p2106, p1295, p0300, p161b, p0507. The codes make me think its an intake or vacuum leak but I have sprayed and sprayed and cannot find a leak and help would be appreciated.
 

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If you have a P0300 you should also have at least one other P030x code or codes. What are they?
 

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I sprayed around the booster and its connections unless there is anotehr way its supposed to be done.
The leak can be internal so you wont find it by spraying. I'd suggest taking a pair of long nose pliers/vise grips and clamp of the brake booster hose. If there's a leak inside the booster clamping the hose will prevent the air from getting into the intake. It should show pretty much instantly on your short term fuel trim on the scan tool data list if clamping the hose is stopping the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The leak can be internal so you wont find it by spraying. I'd suggest taking a pair of long nose pliers/vise grips and clamp of the brake booster hose. If there's a leak inside the booster clamping the hose will prevent the air from getting into the intake.
Ill go try that right now thanks.
 

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I sprayed around the booster and its connections unless there is anotehr way its supposed to be done.

I think that the best way would be to pinch down the hose to the booster with some vice grips and see if anything changes (other than having a very hard to push brake pedal.


Alternate to that, you can run the engine, shut it off, and come back an hour later and see if (without starting the engine) you get one or two normal pushes of the brake pedal before it becomes hard. If you do, then it is very unlikely to be the booster.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The leak can be internal so you wont find it by spraying. I'd suggest taking a pair of long nose pliers/vise grips and clamp of the brake booster hose. If there's a leak inside the booster clamping the hose will prevent the air from getting into the intake. It should show pretty much instantly on your short term fuel trim on the scan tool data list if clamping the hose is stopping the leak.
Nothing really changed, i forgot to mention the butteryfly valve keeps opening and closeing rapidly by a small amount. thats been happening all the time regardless of what i do.
 

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The p0300 codes are misfire codes and they do not point to any specific cylinder. but those have quit coming up on the scanner.
P0300 random misfire. Multiple cylinders. P0301 number 1 cyl, P0302 number 2 etc.That's why I want to know what cylinders. Can you figure out why that may be important?
 

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If a malfunction occurs in the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) system, the PCM will control the engine from predetermined data stored in its memory or stop the engine if a safety problem is anticipated, as an Emergency Operation (Limp-Home) mode. The purpose of Limp-Home mode is to control the engine as close as possible to normal engine operation if a malfunction occurs. When the DTC related to ETC system is recorded by the PCM, then this DTC will be set. This DTC only indicates malfunction related to ETC system has occurred and engine is in Limp-Home mode. DO ALL REPAIRS associated malfunction with ETC system.


DTC Description

PCM sets DTC P2106 to indicate ETC system malfunction has occurred and engine is in Limp-Home mode. The PCM reduces engine torque by 25% of normal value after setting the DTC, as an Emergency Operation (Limp-Home) mode.


The ETC is you problem NOT a vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
P0300 random misfire. Multiple cylinders. P0301 number 1 cyl, P0302 number 2 etc.That's why I want to know what cylinders. Can you figure out why that may be important?
The issue now is that the misfires not showing up on the scanner for whatever reason it just stopped but the main problem still continues.
 

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The issue now is that the misfires not showing up on the scanner for whatever reason it just stopped but the main problem still continues.
Your main problem is the ETC. I'm not sure if the PCM will set misfire codes during limp mode but it may.
Correct the ETC first and take it from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If a malfunction occurs in the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) system, the PCM will control the engine from predetermined data stored in its memory or stop the engine if a safety problem is anticipated, as an Emergency Operation (Limp-Home) mode. The purpose of Limp-Home mode is to control the engine as close as possible to normal engine operation if a malfunction occurs. When the DTC related to ETC system is recorded by the PCM, then this DTC will be set. This DTC only indicates malfunction related to ETC system has occurred and engine is in Limp-Home mode. DO ALL REPAIRS associated malfunction with ETC system.


DTC Description

PCM sets DTC P2106 to indicate ETC system malfunction has occurred and engine is in Limp-Home mode. The PCM reduces engine torque by 25% of normal value after setting the DTC, as an Emergency Operation (Limp-Home) mode.


The ETC is you problem NOT a vacuum leak.
The thing is that I've replaced nearly everything to with the etc aside from the pcm itself. and the other code makes it sound like a vacuum leak but maybe I'm missing something in the etc
 

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Your main problem is the ETC. I'm not sure if the PCM will set misfire codes during limp mode but it may.
Correct the ETC first and take it from there.
I've replaced the pedal, tps and the input and output speed sensors idk what else there is to replace with the etc lol
 

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I've replaced the pedal, tps and the input and output speed sensors idk what else there is to replace with the etc lol
It needs to be diagnosed. Throwing parts at a problem can be expensive and still leave you in limp mode. I guess you're finding that out. I may be able to help you. Let me look at what I have. Got to copy and paste. Way to convoluted to try and do it any other way. I'll be back later.
 

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A thought. I think the throttle body has plastic gears that may be stripped out. They will cause those codes. They are on the opposite side of the TPS.
 

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I've replaced the pedal, tps and the input and output speed sensors idk what else there is to replace with the etc lol
Take the sensor off and rotate the shaft and listen. It the gears are busted you should be able to hear them.
 

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I would have started with the 1295/2106/161B code set --> 35107-3C100NFFF,, and update per Hyundai paper

We had 1 recently that I got stuck with,, 2137 threw me,, FSE saud look at MAF value, as that where 2137 on Hyundai site point to..

APS,, quick look at APS 1 voltage and APS 2 voltage while drive,,, and watch TPS 1 & 2 voltages during drive...

I would not get excited about 0507 or 03xx unless obvious misfire

Throttle body,, naaaa,, not been a problem part on 3.3 / 3.8 LAMBDA
 

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I'm not familiar with this particular engine but I'm with the OP. These codes suggest vacuum leak to me.

The PCM is going to log ETC errors if it can't control the amount of air entering the inlet, which obviously it can't if some of the air is getting in through a leak rather than through the throttle valve. The ETC codes could just be a symptom of the fault rather than the cause of it.
 
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