Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Perhaps someone has knowledge of a solution to this problem, the dealer and a private mechanic couldn't help.

At startup there are electrical problems, no headlights on auto, no tail lights, no defrost, power windows slow up and down.

All problems are eliminated after car warms up for about 30 -40 minutes. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
905 Posts
Sounds like a ground loose somewhere, and ground point expanding back to normal after parts get warmed from the engine. Check also fuse area where it is hooked to POS battery terminal.
 

·
senior member
Joined
·
22,793 Posts
Good point. sbr711 is a BIG proponent of removing those ground straps to the chassis and filing away the paint underneath the ground lugs where the sheet metal screw attaches the lug to the fender well area. I need to do this, as a proactive step to avoid some of the problems this causes. I haven't encountered any of them, yet, and I don't want to, either. Bad/poor grounding in an electrical circuit can be a real nightmare and PITA.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
Paint is an insulator.. grind the paint off to bare steel and re-assemble. Slap some sort of water resistant grease on the connection before re-assemble..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
Sounds to me like either a battery or an alternator. Note the alternator could also be caused by low engine RPM or slipping accessory drive belt. At start up cold it appears that you don't have much battery voltage, but after the car runs for a while it re-charges the battery & then everything is fine again.

Try 2 things:

1. Put a meter on the battery to measure the voltage (if you have a meter). Measure it before you start the car cold. It should be 14ish volts. Watch the voltage as the engine turns over. It will drop some, but it shouldn't drop below 12V (assuming the ambient temp is around 75 degrees F - not sure how much to derate for lower temps). If it drops below 12V you probably have a bad cell in the battery (again depending on ambient temp). Then watch the voltage as the car idles. It should return to 14ish volts within a few seconds. If not you have either a bad battery or a bad charging system (in this car that means replace the alternator).

2. Remove the battery & take it to a parts store. Ask them to perform a "load test" on the battery. This will test the battery's ability to provide a enough current to start the car with power in reserve. If it fails the battery is shot.

I would be surprised if the dealer & your independent mechanic didn't do these things, but do them anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
just went threw same problems...radio on/off blower on/off....lights dim all this at low speed . took to dealer twice finally tested alt. said thats the problem. wanted 780.00 to replace and install.YIKES i just bought at parts store for 130.00 will install myself..... good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
I will run the long time common positive battery cable with volt drop in line from alternator to battery

Engine running, test charge voltage at battery posts... move negative test lead to engine, same voltage, or less ?

Place positive test lead to alternator stud.. how much voltage difference you got ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
well i replaced alternator.about an hour and half. radio n blower still go on/off at low speed and lights flicker. new battery new alternator. lost alot of faith in dealer. taking back in monday morning. sure glad i did not pay 780.00 for new alternator. change cables seems like cars are more difficult with all this electronics to diagnose .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
Positive battery cable...

Do you have a DVOM ??
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top