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Discussion Starter #1
I was hoping someone may have some ideas that can help me track down what is going on. I have a 2006 Elantra Limited 2.0L. When I first got it, it had a blown head gasket. Easy enough I replaced the gasket and replaced the head because it was warped. It ran for a few days but then had an electrical short from a hot wire that was laying loose in the trunk that I did not know about, and blew a whole bunch of sensors and relays. Now it just turns over but does not start. It has no codes either.

I pulled the fuel rail and the injectors are shooting fuel. I pulled the spark plugs out and they are sparking. I have checked the MAF sensor and it is good and measures withing specs. I checked the TPS and it is good and measures within specs. I have pulled each individual fuse and looked at it and even checked continuity on them. I have tried jump starting it from another vehicle. I have tried cranking it on its own. Turns over and over just never starts...

These are the parts I have replaced so far. Some were replaced before the short and some after.
Neutral Safety Switch - replaced after short
Camshaft position sensor - replaced after short
Crankshaft position sensor - replaced after short
Ignition coil - replaced before and after short
Spark plugs - replaced before short
Spark plug wires - replaced before short
Fuel pump -replaced before short
Fuel filter - replaced before short
Fuel pump relay - replaced after short
ECU relay - replaced after short
Fuel injectors - replaced before short
Water pump - replaced before short
Knock sensor - replaced after short
Oil Control VVT Valve Variable Valve Timing Solenoid - replaced before short
Idle Speed Air Control Valve - replaced before short
Oil Temperature sensor - replaced before short

Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I am very stumped!!! I was thinking maybe another relay that could be bad and keeping it from starting but I have no other ideas what to check. Thanks in advance for any help!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you getting spark and fuel in ALL cylinders or just an initial spark and fuel injection on one of them?
I was getting spark in all four and fuel. Now I am getting no spark again but I have fuel. There is still something shorting out the electronics but I can't find where. I did find my new crankshaft sensor bad again. Which is probably my no spark. I also tested the line to it and found there is 5V going to the signal line with KOEO. Hyundai says it should be 0V with KOEO. So I need to figure out where this voltage is coming from. I plan on testing more of the electric tomorrow to see if I can find why everything keeps shorting out.
 

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If there is a short it should be blowing fuses or going up in smoke. Pull all the fuses out then replace them one at a time till you locate the offending circuit. Looks like it's been a good game of parts darts so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If there is a short it should be blowing fuses or going up in smoke. Pull all the fuses out then replace them one at a time till you locate the offending circuit. Looks like it's been a good game of parts darts so far.
All the fuses have been good. It did blow a lot of relays though. Even the battery was smoking in the very beginning of this shorting issue. But not a single fuse has blown. Just the relays. It really has me stumped. I'm just going to start from the ignition switch and start tracking each wire. Maybe there is a melted cover that keeps shorting??? Electric issues are just so time consuming to track down...
 

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Relays blow? You sure about that? Most circuits are protected by fuses and a short shouldblow the fuse before damage is done to any other component. How did you test the relays?
 

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If you still have fuel injector pulse to the injectors from the ECU and no spark
It would not be a bad crankshaft sensor.
A bad crankshaft sensor would make the ECU not put out any signal at all
Meaning that the spark and injector pulse would not be there.

If the engine ran with no problems for a while before the short circuit
Then mechanically the engine timing shouldn't be the problem
But, never know for certain until inspected

You say you have no spark. Follow that line of troubleshooting.
Look for power going to the ignition coils. Check for grounds.
See if the ECU is sending a signal to the coils.
If the KOEO that the coil signal line voltage should be zero
But is at 5 volts ....
That says the voltage on that line is having an issue.
Why is it being held high? Is the wiring shorted?
Or is something the ECU is seeing that makes the ECU put out a 5 volts?
You're going to need a schematic. Even a simple one would help.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Relays blow? You sure about that? Most circuits are protected by fuses and a short shouldblow the fuse before damage is done to any other component. How did you test the relays?
I tested the relays by creating extension wires from the harness to the relay. Then I used my multimeter to test for voltage, resistance, and continuity while key off, key on engine off, and while trying to crank the car. I agree the fuses should have blown before the relays. Relay are just switches and the insides can stick open or stick closed. They are pretty easy to check to see if they are working or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you still have fuel injector pulse to the injectors from the ECU and no spark
It would not be a bad crankshaft sensor.
A bad crankshaft sensor would make the ECU not put out any signal at all
Meaning that the spark and injector pulse would not be there.

If the engine ran with no problems for a while before the short circuit
Then mechanically the engine timing shouldn't be the problem
But, never know for certain until inspected

You say you have no spark. Follow that line of troubleshooting.
Look for power going to the ignition coils. Check for grounds.
See if the ECU is sending a signal to the coils.
If the KOEO that the coil signal line voltage should be zero
But is at 5 volts ....
That says the voltage on that line is having an issue.
Why is it being held high? Is the wiring shorted?
Or is something the ECU is seeing that makes the ECU put out a 5 volts?
You're going to need a schematic. Even a simple one would help.

Good luck
I looked at the wiring this morning. I found no issues with any of the grounds. All the wiring looked intact as far back as I can see.There is no melted covers or wires that I see in the engine compartment. I did find 4 exposed wires on the radio connection that could have been touching metal and causing a short. I am going to clip them and add some new connectors to cover over the exposed wires. I am about to go to the junkyard and get a couple of crankshaft sensors since I know the one tested bad. I am also going to get a new instrument cluster also, I think the instrument voltage regulator in it is bad since the gauges bounce around erratically when I turn the key on. I don't believe this would be correlated to my short issue, just noticed it was bad also. When I replace the crankshaft sensor I will connect my GDS back up to the car and see if I get any other new codes. Right now it is only showing the crankshaft sensor bad and my bank 1 O2 sensor is out of spec. Which the O2 sensor should not be causing my no start issue or electrical issue. Off to the junkyard.....
 

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I tested the relays by creating extension wires from the harness to the relay. Then I used my multimeter to test for voltage, resistance, and continuity while key off, key on engine off, and while trying to crank the car.
And what did your tests reveal?
 

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And what did your tests reveal?
That was how I tested them. The ones that showed always open which didn't let the power through were the ones I replaced. I did not find any that were in the always closed position. The rest were working normal opening and closing when voltage was supplied.
 

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That was how I tested them. The ones that showed always open which didn't let the power through were the ones I replaced. I did not find any that were in the always closed position. The rest were working normal opening and closing when voltage was supplied.
I also phisically checked the continuity on all the fuses and they were all good. I did not just go off a visual inspection.
 

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The ones that showed always open which didn't let the power through were the ones I replaced.
Which ones were those? There should be a label on the inside of the fusebox lid that tells you what each relay is for.

I also phisically checked the continuity on all the fuses
That's not really a good method of test for fuses though. How did you go about testing them? Did you pull each one out and connect your Ohmmeter across them?

A much better test method is to switch the ignition on then use a voltmeter or test light to probe the test points on top of each fuse while they are still fitted to the fusebox. That not only tells you that the fuse itself is good but also tells you that the fuse is being supplied with voltage.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
Which ones were those? There should be a label on the inside of the fusebox lid that tells you what each relay is for.


That's not really a good method of test for fuses though. How did you go about testing them? Did you pull each one out and connect your Ohmmeter across them?

A much better test method is to switch the ignition on then use a voltmeter or test light to probe the test points on top of each fuse while they are still fitted to the fusebox. That not only tells you that the fuse itself is good but also tells you that the fuse is being supplied with voltage.

Yep I pulled them all out and checked them with an ohmmeter. I did not do this with the key on and making sure voltage is supplied. I will try that next though. So after getting back from the junkyard I have figured out that the person before rewired the stereo wires. I got a new connector from the junkyard and will wire them back in the order they should be. I'll see then if they actually matched the colors up or not. If not that could be a shorting issue. While I was driving back I thought I should also pull the trim pieces on the drivers side front and back door and make sure they didn't mess up anything when they ran the amplifier wires to the trunk. They did such a horrible job hooking up the after market radio and amp. I have found 16 exposed wires so far that I have had to repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Which ones were those? There should be a label on the inside of the fusebox lid that tells you what each relay is for.
The fuel pump relay, ECU relay, and two relays Hyundai just labeled them power not sure what they actually went to. They were both always open. One on the back side of the interior fuse box and one beside the BCM inside and below where the radio sits.
 

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Just curious, did you mess with the fuses inside the cabin ... under dash??
There is a black thing which is used to put vehicle in transportation mode
If you messed with it then it may be in the wrong position??

Sorry for interrupting ...
 
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