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2007 Azera here fixing a bad blower supply relay,

There is a 50A relay on the "high side" of the circuit to the blower. If, with the ignition in the "ON" position, you have no 12 volts at the blower plug, something is wrong on this "high side". Battery voltage goes through the 40A fusible link in the engine compartment to a plug-in relay on the BACKSIDE of the in-car fuse block. There are 4 relays on this backside: 50A for blower, 50A for rear window DFOG, 2 other smaller ones for tail light and trunk lid remote release. The 50A relays are the same part number as the ones in the engine compartment (Hyundai 39160/Kia 3711), but obviously harder to get to.

Most of the posts on this forum deal with the "speed resistor/MOSFET" which is on the low side of the blower circuit. But if you have no voltage (12V) at the blower high side, replacing these (or the control box) will do no good.

Before taking anything apart, check the 40A fusible link "blower" in the engine compartment fuse box. If it appears good in its small window, then check the two 10A fuses in the passenger fuse box (named ACON and ACON SW). If these are also good, remove the blower cover in the passenger-side footwell (instructions elsewhere in this forum). Pull the connector off the blower motor (you need to press one side to release). Using a meter or 12V test light, check for 12V to ground off each of the 2 female ends (I don't give wire colors as they vary). Be sure you have found a real frame ground for this; a lot of trim screws and even fairly large ones bed in plastic nowadays. The footwell light connector which you have to take off anyway can help find a decent ground screw/bare metal assuming it (the light) works. WITH THE IGNITION IN ON, one of the blower connectors should show 12V to frame ground. If not (my situation), the high side relay is bad.

The backside relays can be located by looking up from under the drivers side dash toward the in car fusebox. There will be 2 black 50A relays and 2 smaller blue relays. You will be depressed when you see how hard they are to get-to. The worst one to get to is the top one, which naturally is the one for the blower;) But you can get a decent shot by dropping the plastic cover (similar to the one for the blower on the passenger side which you have already practiced above) (2 screws at the back on each side, one on the side which is uncovered with the fusebox cover popped, and 3 "pressure fit" connectors on the front (each side of steering column and one on the fusebox edge). Be sure you have the ignition to off (key out) and remove any metal finger rings before trying to pull the relays.

After you have dropped the plastic (no need to disconnect anything just let it hang), you will have a "just big enough" hole to get to these relays. I removed the easier one (the rear DFOG) by wiggling and pinching and eventually got it out pulling toward the center console. I also left some blood as the hole we are working through has sharper edges than some pocketknives. Removal of this one gives more finger space to get the top (blower) relay. Also, it is possible to curl your left hand over the top of the fuse box from the fuse -side, and get a finger on the top of that relay for wiggling purposes along with your right hand in the dash hole. The top one also has pull space reduced by a metal strut, so once it comes loose you have to fiddle a bit to clear the socket (who designs this stuff?).

Anyway, once it is out (and assumed bad), the good news is you can plug in the already removed DFOG relay (hopefully good) in its place and turn the ignition to on. Any luck, the blower works. Then get a new relay for the DFOG. These relays cost about $13.
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I took a few pics and also attached a diagram of the front and back of the in-car fuse box. In the pics you can "just about" see one of the blue relays though the dash hole and a close-up through the hole with the top blower relay still in but the DFOG relay pulled.
 

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Excellent post, John. Thank you for taking the time to create it.

I can vet the efficacy of John's procedure for t'shooting a "no blower" condition on an '06 Azera Limited. The problem in the '06 was also a bad relay.

The Hyundai Service Manual procedure for t'shooting a "no blower" condition is to perform the following tests in order:
1) Check 40A Blower Fuse - located in the engine bay fuse box. (fuses never go bad)
2) Check Blower Relay - located on rear of drv-side fuse box.
3) Check Blower Motor
4) Check Power MOSFET
5) Check Climate Control
6) Check Wire Harness

An addendum instructions to John's procedure for gaining access to the blower relay...
  • After removing the plastic panel under the steering column, remove the steel brace. It is held with four fasteners.
  • The blower relay is partially blocked by an immovable steel bracket. You need to create ~3mm of clearance to remove/replace the relay. Remove the bottom-most fastener from the fuse-bank side of the fuse box. This will allow you a bit more to flex the top corner of the fuse box sufficiently to swap the blower fuse.
 
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