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Discussion Starter #1
Engine light (amber color) came on but went off a few days ago. Today I made a short trip and the light came on and then the car suddenly stalled. It did not die totally, but rather it seemed to be in a high idle and wouldn't rev up when I pushed on the gas. Letting off the brake the car would go about 20 mph but no acceleration, more like I'm coasting along oh so slowly.

Now I'm stuck at work with a 20 mile trip ahead of me. Is there some kind of trick to reset something to get it running again or am I stuck?

Any ideas on what this could be? Won't be able to get the codes read until I can get it home, which hopefully won't involve a long tow.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I managed to get it home going down some back roads. Uphill was a real struggle as there just was no power at all. Even in park, pushing the gas pedal does very little. The first half of the pedal gets no response, the second half down of the pedal revs the engine but seems to be a flat acceleration like it hits a plateau and won't go any higher no matter how far down the pedal is pushed.

I'm really clueless on this. Seems like it would be some kind of accelerator issue? I replaced the plugs this spring but did not replace the wires or coils then, but that doesn't seem likely to be it unless something gave out completely. It also felt like it wasn't shifting right on the way home, but that is probably due to the low speed. Had the tranny fluid replaced last month too.

On the way home I could be coasting along at close to 40mph after going down a hill, and then when I stepped on the gas it actually seemed to take momentum away.

Could there be a vapor lock somewhere? Other ideas?

hate to break down and take it to the dealer, but I don't know where to start.
 

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Could be a blown head gasket , or a timing problem , did you notice if the exhaust gases are a funny colour this would be a sign of oil or prestone seeping into the combustion chamber. Check your fluid levels, if they are low and were filled up lately I`d go for the head gaskets. It is a pretty long job to do and if you are not very mechanical I`d leave it up to the garage. I had all those symptoms a while back with an old car and it started to do this from time to time then when the gasket let go I had to get it towed home, so if you can still roll I would head for the garage soon.
 

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Common problem is the APS... look on left frame rail between air filter box and straight down from nose of brake master cylinder...

Scan the thing first, and verify it has APS codes... we usually keep 1 on shelf all the time.

After replacement (if needed to be replaced)..... go in with GDS and update the PCM with #82 "Linear Throttle...", need the white 10 pin connector to do program...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like it was a loose connector to the throttle body (the one that is away from the firewall towards the front of the vehicle). Connector doesn't seem to have a retaining clip on it. Not sure if I broke it or lost it when I replaced the spark plugs this spring but certainly seems like it should have some kind of locking mechanism.

I reset the codes by disconnecting the battery so we'll see if it comes back or not, but it is running fine after reseating the connector that seemed like it had worked it's way loose.

Anyone know what kind of retaining clip should be on that connector and whether I can buy one without having to replace the whole connector?
 

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I drive an hyundai santa fe 2004 with 3.5L engine. I took the car to the carwash where the engine was washed. the car starts to jerk and eventually the throttle pedal would rev when accelerated. Now it wouldn't start though it cranks when ignition is turned on. Does anyone know what the problem is and how do i solve it.
 

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APS is Accelerator Position Sensor and is used by
the ECM to drive a servo in the throttle body for air
flow in the combustion process. FYI

Paul
 
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